ACE reciever block options

[JWarren 0]

Hi.

 

I've been playing with the buttstock of my S-308 and am exploring options. I need to make a major change soon because I screwed the pooch on adding a universal cheek rest to my existing stock. I didn't like the gap between the stock and cheek piece. I therefore filled in the gap with JB Weld filler and sanded it down. It works fine, but cosmetically, it isn't perfect. This rifle deserves better than that.

 

 

So....

 

 

I think I am adding a ACE skeleton stock to the rifle (non-folding). The question is whether I go with the internal reciever block or the external one. The advantages/concerns that have crossed my mind are as follows:

 

 

 

Internal Reciever Block

 

1. Requires cutting off rear trunnion tang. I'm not crazy about cutting pieces off the rifle. (Negative)

2. May be more solidly seated in the rifle. (Positive)

3. Has a seamless look to the rifle and flows with the lines of the rifle. (Positive)

 

 

External Reviever Block

 

1. Does not require any modifications to the rifle (Positive)

2. Unsure as to how firmly attached the stock will be or any potential of loosening (Negative)

3. Does not "flow" as well as the internal block with the lines of the rifle. (Negative)

4. Will add 1.55 inches to the stock length (Positive for me)

 

 

Does anyone know if the ACE cheek rest will sit high enough to use comfortably with a PSOP scope?

 

 

I'm working on what stock length I'd like to have on the rifle. Currently, the K-Var stock on mine is 11.5 inches long. It does set well with the PSOP scope, but I sometimes feel that the stock in a bit too short for my preferred trigger pull. I have to play with my stock to see how other lengths feel and how it affects using the PSOP scope.

 

I'm leaning towards the External Reciever block (adds 1.55 inches), a 9.5 inch (long) Ace non-folding skeleton stock, and a 1 inch recoil pad. If I am thinking correctly, this set-up will net out a 0.55 inch GAIN in stock length over my K-Var stock. If I went with the internal reciever block and all else being equal, I would net out a 1 inch LOSS in stock length.

 

I think there are stock spacers available at ACE Ltd. to address this. Does anyone have any experiece with them? If the external reciever block isn't as sturdy, this may be a solve to a stock length issue.

 

 

I appreciate any help anyone can give.

 

 

John

Edited February 8, 2007 by JWarren

[getitat 609]

Hello, JWarren

I went with internal Ace blocks on both my .308 and S-12, but used the adjustable LOP SOCOM stocks from Ace. I, too, like a longer LOP, I went with hinges, which extends them a bit, medium reach stocks, and 1" recoil pads. I don't know wht the dimensions are, but at about midway extension on the stock, it feels great, and I get a cheek weld with my low-rise optic mount.

My guess is if you forego the hinge and get the long stock you'll be in the same ballpark...

 

Sorry I couldn't be of more help...

 

Guido2 in Houston

[KYCitizen 0]

I can say from personal experience with both receivers that I prefer the internal block over the external for the same reason you have stated. It looks a thousand times better w/ the internal block. Its rock solid. The only reason I would tell anyone to get an external is if there thinking of selling their Saiga down the road to somebody who might not want the tang cut off. Simple as that, go with it if your gonna keep it and you know exactly what you want the finished product to look like.

Hi.

 

I've been playing with the buttstock of my S-308 and am exploring options. I need to make a major change soon because I screwed the pooch on adding a universal cheek rest to my existing stock. I didn't like the gap between the stock and cheek piece. I therefore filled in the gap with JB Weld filler and sanded it down. It works fine, but cosmetically, it isn't perfect. This rifle deserves better than that.

 

 

So....

 

 

I think I am adding a ACE skeleton stock to the rifle (non-folding). The question is whether I go with the internal reciever block or the external one. The advantages/concerns that have crossed my mind are as follows:

 

 

 

Internal Reciever Block

 

1. Requires cutting off rear trunnion tang. I'm not crazy about cutting pieces off the rifle. (Negative)

2. May be more solidly seated in the rifle. (Positive)

3. Has a seamless look to the rifle and flows with the lines of the rifle. (Positive)

 

 

External Reviever Block

 

1. Does not require any modifications to the rifle (Positive)

2. Unsure as to how firmly attached the stock will be or any potential of loosening (Negative)

3. Does not "flow" as well as the internal block with the lines of the rifle. (Negative)

4. Will add 1.55 inches to the stock length (Positive for me)

 

 

Does anyone know if the ACE cheek rest will sit high enough to use comfortably with a PSOP scope?

 

 

I'm working on what stock length I'd like to have on the rifle. Currently, the K-Var stock on mine is 11.5 inches long. It does set well with the PSOP scope, but I sometimes feel that the stock in a bit too short for my preferred trigger pull. I have to play with my stock to see how other lengths feel and how it affects using the PSOP scope.

 

I'm leaning towards the External Reciever block (adds 1.55 inches), a 9.5 inch (long) Ace non-folding skeleton stock, and a 1 inch recoil pad. If I am thinking correctly, this set-up will net out a 0.55 inch GAIN in stock length over my K-Var stock. If I went with the internal reciever block and all else being equal, I would net out a 1 inch LOSS in stock length.

 

I think there are stock spacers available at ACE Ltd. to address this. Does anyone have any experiece with them? If the external reciever block isn't as sturdy, this may be a solve to a stock length issue.

 

 

I appreciate any help anyone can give.

 

 

John

[vjor 2]

Edited February 9, 2007 by vjor

[JWarren 0]

Thanks for the advice guys. Vjor, you make an excellent point that I thought about after I posted. Even though I typically like a longer LOP, I do think that it would make using the PSOP harder. Hmmm....

 

 

As I mentioned in my post, it seems that going with the internal block over the no-mod external stock is going to result in my losing 1 inch of reach over the stock I have now (I think it may be NATO length) I really don't want to lose that inch, but there may be options.

 

There are stock spacers that are available if I need a bit more LOP. That may be an option.

 

http://riflestocks.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=253

 

 

I've been concerned about cutting off the reciever tang which perhaps would limit my options in the future. However, even as I am writing this, I just realized that it doesn't matter. The only other stock I considered putting on it was the Magpul Percision rifle stock. But that one would require a AR-15 reciever adapter-- which would still require a universal reciever block.

 

OK... so I figured it out.

 

I think I'm going for the internal reciever block, the 9.5 inch stock and 1 inch recoil pad. This would have me losing one inch of LOP over my current stock. However, if I don't like the LOP, I'll add in a 0.70 inch stock spacer, netting me a loss of 0.30 inches-- but gaining me a 1 inch recoil pad. I probably can live without the 0.30 LOP.

 

 

Thanks for helping me think this out guys.

 

Next weekend (a week from tomorrow) I am having my barrel turned down and threaded by a local machinist (he's doing it without having to pull the barrel). I'll have a Dragunov flash suppressor one then. With the stock and a fresh coat of duracoat, I'll FINALLY be done with the rifle.

 

Keep your eyes peeled for the gun porn that will follow!

 

 

Thanks again!

 

John

[aurbis 1]

Good choice! The internal block is definitely cleaner looking, probably a bit sturdier too. Just cut the dang tang, mang!

[KySoldier 2]

I've got the external block on one of my S-12s

 

<------

 

And it doesn't come loose. If you get it you'll need to buy the shorter stock to compensate. But I agree the internal looks better, they just didn't offer it when I bought mine

[JWarren 0]

Update:

 

 

I broke down and called ACE today. I ordered a 9.5 inch Skeleton stock, a 1 inch recoil pad, a cheek rest, and the internal receiver block. They said it would be shipped out on monday due to the receiver block being on order.

 

This weekend, the muzzle will be threaded and a Dragunov flash hider installed. I figure that I will FINALLY be able to toss out some gun porn by mid week next week. I've only been working on this thing since before Christmas! LOL

 

The end is finally in sight!

 

John

[aurbis 1]

Can't wait! I think you will enjoy it much more than we will, however.

[JWarren 0]

ACE is the place for the helpful hardware man!

 

I got a package in from ACE today. As soon as I get home, I'll chop off the tang and install the stock. I already assembled it. It looks like it will fit the bill perfectly! Tomorrow the muzzle brake is getitng installed and I'll finally be done!

 

Thanks guys!

 

 

John

[macbeau 902]

JUST "CUT THE DANG TANG"!

 

Hey....

 

Chicks dig it...

Edited February 17, 2007 by macbeau

[JWarren 0]

Update:

 

 

I just got through cutting the tang on my Saiga 308. She is now tangless, and I am proud to say that she's sporting a new ACE non-folding skeleton stock!

 

Couple observations:

 

Earlier in this tread, I mentioned that I would be losing some LOP. Incorrect. I may have measured wrong, but I can say with authority that if you add:

 

9.5 inch ACE stock

1 inch recoil pad

Internal "cut yo tang" receiver block

 

You will have EXACTLY the same LOP as a NATO length K-VAR stock polymer stock. Oddly, it looks shorter on the rifle, but I can attest that it is exactly the same length on the rifle.

 

 

Next observation:

 

If you use the ACE cheek rest, it does not really come with any directions as to which direction you install it on the rifle.

 

I tried it both ways. If you install it like it shows on the ACE website, the recoil pad is too close to the eyepiece of a PSOP scope.

 

However, if you turn it around, you will not have it on solidly. It will move around freely.

 

I fixed this problem, and even improved upon the design a tad-- all invisibly.

 

Originally I used a piece of pipe insulation with a stock cover to hide the unattractiveness on the rifle when I needed something fast to hunt. I still had that discarded pipe insulation.

 

I cut a 1/4 circle piece of the pipe insulation, and shortened it to where it had about 1/4 inch clearance from the ends of the ACE cheek piece. I then inserted the pipe insulation into the hollow space inside of the ACE cheek rest.

 

Upon reinstalling the ACE cheek rest WITH the LONG side to the rear, I immediately noticed that the cheek rest fits snuggly to the ACE stock. Moreover, now the cheek rest has a degree of "cushion" to it. If you find you have your head a bit to high, you may apply a small amount of pressure to the cheek rest with your face and it compresses to the stock in a very flowing and comfortable manner. It is essentially like having a flex-adjustable cheek rest.

 

 

 

I confirmed about an hour ago that my machinist friend will start working on moving my FSB, turning down my barrel and threading it tomorrow morning at 10 AM CST. I suspect I'll have gun porn by this time tomorrow!

 

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

 

John

[JWarren 0]

Update:

 

 

I spent all morning over at a friend's machine shop. I am proud to say that I've completed the barrel threading. It went off without a hitch.

 

There were a couple observations:

 

1. I have an EAA Saiga 308. I don't know if it is different slightly from the RAA ones, but when we pulled my front sight base, it did not have any type of "lip" inside of it, as was depicted on some diagrams I saw here. My FSB was completely smooth and one diameter within it.

 

2. Because of this, we decided that it wasn't worth the effort to bore out the FSB to slide it back on the barrel. Instead, we simply turned the barrel down to the internal diameter of the FSB all the way back to where we would relocated the FSB.

 

3. We did not pull my barrel to turn it down. I've heard of people saying that sometimes groups tend to open up when the barrels are pulled. Regardless if that is true, we were fortunate enough that he has a lathe large enough to mount the entire rifle's reciever. We stripped the rifle and centered it on the lathe.

 

4. After a few passes to turn the barrel down, we were able to thread it while on the lathe. Threading was actually the fastest part of the entire process.

 

5. To remove the FSB, we had to grind off a "dimple on the pins. It was a bear trying to hammer the pins out, so we just went ahead and drilled them out. We used new pins when reinstalling the FSB.

 

6. [Edit] I forgot to mention. Bobby is rather meticulous. The entire process from start to finish took 2 hours and 20 minutes.

 

 

Tomorrow, she gets a new coat of Duracoat Black Oxide and a short stay in my oven. I'll probably hold off reassembling the rifle for a few days to make sure it is hard enough to not have the safety selector scratch the duracoat.

 

Again, thanks for all the help. She's turning into the rifle I envisioned.

 

 

John

Edited February 18, 2007 by JWarren