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marvin42

Grease!

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I use Shell Aviation landing gear grease, why well because I happend to have a tube. I figure if a C-130 can land on it, it should be fine for a Saiga.

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Hmm...

 

Thats an interesting question.

 

When I have a nice and "clean" S12, I can hear the piston move around nicely. I can thread/unthread that end cap with no issues at all.

After a day at the range though =sheesh. Needs to be "helped" a little bit to take off.

--even then, the piston will not come out without some prep work (scrape the residue a little bit and some oil).

(I leave on position "1" by the way).

 

I was considering some sort of gun grease on at least the threads. That way the powder wouldnt work its way onto the threads.

~But I figured that since the tube would heat up, it would liquify the grease just the same as the light coat of oil in there after cleaning anyway.

 

How much oil do you put on those threads and piston? Or is the grease a better option? Like I said -once clean its purfect. After shooting its "really" sticky on the threads and the piston is definitely not free moving (yet it must obviously since it fires perfect regardless -no FTE at all).

 

 

Hmm.

 

 

~S

Edited by whatmanual

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Mobil 1 5W30 and wipe. Also molly anti-seeze on slide,bolt and rails. Don'even use it unless a heavy cleaning has been done.

Gas system dry, or use #2 pencil and "color".

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Sperm oil here. Right down the old muzzle and in any dry, tight places. post-88-1172539959.gif

 

Well, actually a lube made up of Mobil 1, STP oil treatment, & ATF (which is basically just synthetic sperm oil). :rolleyes:

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Temperature resistant PTFE (teflon) grease from Radio Shack or moly bearing grease for car CV-joints (NAPA). Try anti-sieze paste on the threads of the gas piston regulator cap and it will be a lot easier to remove for cleaning. I use anti-sieze on the muzzle brake threads of my Arsenal AK-74 clone as it carbons up pretty bad between cleaning. Beware of metal bearing anti-sieze (copper or silver color) on moving parts as it will act as a strong abrasive. Years ago, I destroyed the top roller bearing on the side sliding door of our shop van thinking it would be a good lubricant.

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I use a product called Slick Honey, intended for mountain bike suspensions only on the threads and where the carrier slides on the receiver.

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