lxarcher 0 Posted August 16, 2004 Report Share Posted August 16, 2004 I just recieved my side rail scope mount for my 308 today. I slapped a bushnell sportsman 4-12x by 40mm on it and headed out to shoot. After adjusting my scope to its max limits (left and up) i'm still 4 inches low and right at 25 yards.....needless to say i'm heartbroke. Is there something I can do to the mount? or do I need to get a russian scope? any help would be great Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IffenWhen 0 Posted August 17, 2004 Report Share Posted August 17, 2004 25 yards is way too short to be zeroing a scope at! no wonder you are out of adjustment range.....start at 100 yards for your zero and you will see that you have plenty of clicks to find that sweet spot. at 25 yards you should be using your iron sights anyway .....especially on the .308....hope this helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lxarcher 0 Posted August 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2004 25 yards is way too short to be zeroing a scope at! no wonder you are out of adjustment range.....start at 100 yards for your zero and you will see that you have plenty of clicks to find that sweet spot. at 25 yards you should be using your iron sights anyway .....especially on the .308....hope this helps i was trying to get on paper, i wasn't trying to zero in ......it was 2 feet low Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bvamp 604 Posted August 17, 2004 Report Share Posted August 17, 2004 use shims and washers to true it.........your parts have room for these, according to other threads in this forum, and should be do-able.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IffenWhen 0 Posted August 17, 2004 Report Share Posted August 17, 2004 I wasn't trying to be snide or anything...but your post never mentioned your intent to just get it on paper....I thought you were trying to zero the new scope to the rifle and needed advise toward that end....hope you got it straightened out, the .308 is a great weapon! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lxarcher 0 Posted August 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 i've heard of shimming the thing....and it looks like that is my only option....has anyone had to do this, and could someone explain to me exactly how....if i'm low and right....i don't know how to get my scope any lower or farther to the right. at least it looks really cool now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PM2790 0 Posted August 19, 2004 Report Share Posted August 19, 2004 Step 1: Re-center your scopes crosshairs. Elevation turret- turn one direction until it stops. Count clicks/turns as you turn in the opposite direction until it stops. Divide that number by two and turn in the opposite direction that number of clicks/turns. Repeat this process with the windage turret. Your crosshairs are now centered in the middle of the scope. Step 2: Securely sandbag your rifle and fire 5 rds with the crosshairs centered on your aiming dot or x. You say you were shooting two feet low. Therefore, the barrel is at an angle away from your line of sight. Visualize that you are standing beside your rifle. Two sticks are floating in the air beside your rifle. ---------------------------------------------- Line of sight through the scope ---------------------------------------------- Rifle bore In your case the two lines diverge. You want to raise the bore closer to your line of sight to make the sticks parallel. Two areas to try on your mount. Step 3: Loosen the Weaver rail and slip a shim under the REAR of the rail. This will be trial and error. For two feet, I'd try a folded match book cover. Tighten and shoot another group. Keep adjusting shims under the rear of the rail until you have raised the group to a couple of inches below your aiming point. Once you get the elevation close, replace the temporary shims with appropriate steel or brass shim stock or washers. Step 4: Sometimes you can adjust windage at the Weaver rail. The REAR of your rail needs to move left. If there is no movement available there, then look at your scope mount uprights. On a Belarus mount there are four screws that attach the uprights to the clamp assembly. Loosen the screws and insert a shim (one or two layers of aluminum pop can material) at the rear screws. Shoot for group and adjust shims until you are aligned vertically. The Saiga/Izhmash mount with built in rings is adjusted in a similar manner. To move the group left, you need to move the REAR of the scope to the left. Step 5: Double check to make sure that all of your fasteners are tight and shoot for group one more time. It should be centered left to right a couple inches below your aim point at 25 yds. Now move out to 100 yds and start using the scope adjustments to zero your rifle. Good luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
24kshooter 0 Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 You will be lucky if your scope doesn't take a crap on you - this model is a bit on the lite side for a semi 308 cal rifle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 PM2790 - Excellent instructions, but everyone KNOWS that beer can shims are more accurate tha soda can shims!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
O.S.O.K. 0 Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 Use Burris or other windage adjustable rings - that will take care of the side to side. As to the elevation, yes shim the back of the base where it attaches. Aluminum can material is a great shim material - easy to cut and shape as needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bossman 1 Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 (edited) Most of the mounts are made with windage and elevation adjustments built in,in my experience they NEED it.Both of the saiga factory mounts I`ve owned needed to be adjusted because I couldnt get zero with the scopes knobs. I cant say for sure but I do believe the "belarus" mounts work the same but the relevant parts may be in different locations. On the saiga mount,there are two screws that adjust the windage and two that adjust the elevation. The mounts are pinned from the factory so they will not loosen and give us trouble.The pins must be driven out before adjustment can begin.2 pins for windage and 2 pins for elevation. Drive all 4 pins out(or just the appropriate 2 if you just need windage and not elevation or vice versa) The round headed screws ride in oblong slots,the flat headed screws are the pivots on which the assembly moves. The windage screws are verticle the elevation screws are horizontal. Loosen the flat screw about 1 or 2 turns,loosen the round head screw enough so that adjustment can be made. Tap the mount with a rawhide mallet or other suitable non-marring tool to get the thing to move,keep boresighting while you are adjusting until you get things where you want them to be. Torque the screws down with loc-tite and either omit or redrill and reinstall the pins,if you put the pins back in the original holes you might move the mount back to it`s original setting and you will throw things and curse me. The relevant parts labeled. Hope this helps, Bossman Edited November 3, 2006 by Bossman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bossman 1 Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 Well I cant seem to get the picture to show and I cant seem to add an attachment......????? Help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Loanshark 0 Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 It sounds like it may not be neccesary but there are adjustable scope rings available. Might be easier than shimming for some. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Master Blaster 0 Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 It sounds like it may not be neccesary but there are adjustable scope rings available. Might be easier than shimming for some. The Psop scopes have a huge amount of windage and elevation built into them for a reason. On my Saiga .223 I had to move the front site all the way to the right to get the rifle on paper at 100yards with the iron sights. The psop scope was no problem due to the several Meters of adjustment built into it. My .308 isnt nearly as bad, now if I could just find a mount that will stay put on the side rail for more than 10 shots. I would second using the windage adjustible rings, rather than messing with the pins on the mount. It could also be that the scope is causing the problem. Try using a red dot on the gun instead first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 I ran into the same problem with my .308 and my 6.5-20 x 50 Barska. I have the low mount Belarus on there and it was no where near paper at first. After shimming the rear up as far as I could to get close, now the huge bell on that 50mm scope is too close to the rear sight and not only won't allow removal of the mount but it lightly hits the sight under recoil. It left a small mark the first couple of shots before I noticed and quit. I want to use the varmint scope on there and I don't want to use my overly high Belarus mount (the other one) so I'm not sure what to do. Thought about see thru rings but I've heard they aren't good for accuracy and they would put the scope almost as high as the tall mount, which IMO is way too high. Anyone put a 50 mm scope on their Saiga that can still remove their mount without hitting the sights? How you do dat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hoop762 0 Posted November 3, 2006 Report Share Posted November 3, 2006 Cobra, I had on on my x39 a while back, just for grins, and i was using the low rise mount with low rings. You are right man, the see through rings are just way too high. anyways, to get clearance i had to remove the rear sight. even with the rear sight removed it was still TIGHT! I know this is not a suitable fix for most people, but i got the job done. I have since gone back to reddot, cause ive got other rifles for long distance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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