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Put in a G2 triggergroup and cut the hammer to clear cross bar. Noticed that the bolt rides over the hammer with more resistance, enough that there is no need for a BHO if you just pull the bolt back and let it contact the hammer. I put the stock hammer in with the G2 trigger and disconector and it rides over fine and everything works, so is it better to use the stock hammer? seems like there would be less wear on the bolt. I noticed that on my 410 that I got from a board member that thats what he did as well, but there doesn't seem to be as much resistace on my 7.62x39 so I'm guessing geometry is slightly differnt on the 308

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Put in a G2 triggergroup and cut the hammer to clear cross bar. Noticed that the bolt rides over the hammer with more resistance, enough that there is no need for a BHO if you just pull the bolt back and let it contact the hammer. I put the stock hammer in with the G2 trigger and disconector and it rides over fine and everything works, so is it better to use the stock hammer? seems like there would be less wear on the bolt. I noticed that on my 410 that I got from a board member that thats what he did as well, but there doesn't seem to be as much resistace on my 7.62x39 so I'm guessing geometry is slightly differnt on the 308

 

 

I run my stock hammer in mine. Never a problem at all.

 

CnR

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I had problems when I tried to use the stock hammer with the G2 FCG, what would happen is it would fire when you pulled the trigger and when you released it. I never fired it like that but dry firing showed that it would happen.

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I used the stock hammer with an AK trigger (non G2 but still the same shape) and would get the problem of the gun firing, chambering a round, but not cocking the hammer. I came to find out that the stock hammer is thinner, thus only becoming engaged on the sear and/or trigger hook when the bolt and bolt carrier is fully thrust to the rear of the receiver, whereas a regular AK hammer (G2 or otherwise) will engage the trigger hook and/or sear when the bolt and bolt carrier are pulled only halfway to the rear of the receiver. I thouht to myself, "then how in the hell does a stock FCG work then?" Well, it turns out that the stock trigger hook is canted a tad bit toward the back of the receiver and shaped a little different to compensate for the thinner stock hammer.

 

It seems that you had kind of the same problem, csspecs, only instead of the hammer not catching at all on the sear, like it was in my case, it seems like yours would catch the sear, but not re-catch on the trigger hook, resulting in a double-fire when you let your finger off the trigger. Again, most likely because of the thinner stock hammer on a standard trigger hook.

 

Oh, and that increased resistance that you noticed Hunter78, is probably because of the difference in size of the bolts and bolt carriers between a .308 and a 7.62x39 AK. If you run into problems at all with misfires, double-fires or chambering a round without cocking the hammer, just switch the stock hammer for the G2 hammer, get some molly gun lube for the friction and give 'er hell ;)

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