at 50 yards

[sulphur 7]

after two trips to the range I finally got a chance to site in my .223 w/ a PO 6x40 (from Kalinka), using Wolf ammo at 50 yards. Must say I am very pleased with the resuts 1" to 2" groups. Now at 100 yards the results were not quite the same. I wonder if I am looking and adjusting right with this Dragunov Rangefinding Reticule or is it the ammo?

 

Any advice would be welcome.....

[pogy 5]

I have the 4X24 on my .223. Your 1"-2" groups can double at 100 yds, mine do.

At 100 yds, you should be sighting on the top carat, for 200 on the second one down.

Wolf ammo isn't the best but it works good enough for me for plinking.

My Saiga ain't no tack driver but as member "Bad Bob" put it (I believe it was Bob)

My gun shoots "one minute of perp" at 100 yards!

[TEXASAK73 13]

"Minute of crackhead" is the proper term

[sulphur 7]

I have the 4X24 on my .223. Your 1"-2" groups can double at 100 yds, mine do.

At 100 yds, you should be sighting on the top carat, for 200 on the second one down.

Wolf ammo isn't the best but it works good enough for me for plinking.

My Saiga ain't no tack driver but as member "Bad Bob" put it (I believe it was Bob)

My gun shoots "one minute of perp" at 100 yards!

 

what carat at 50 yds should I be looking at?

[IndyArms 10,186]

And here all along I thought it was minute of dirtbag...

 

 

[Echo_Four 0]

Silly me, I always just said minute of man. I need to keep up with the trends.

[Bad Bob 0]

And here all along I thought it was minute of dirtbag...

 

 

I think "minute of zombie" is also correct - especially because, from what I hear, those d@mn zombies always require head shots...

 

;>)

[termite 463]

It's a Minute of MethHead around here. If they are cooking out in the woods, then it's Minute of ANYTHING that you can hit.

[pogy 5]

Sulpher,

I'm no ballistics guru but I'll bet if you use the top carat at 50, you will hit your target. Remember, a .223 round is leaving the muzzle @ about 3000 ft/sec.

50 yds is really close for that round.

[Havoc308 3]

My PSOP directions state that the the lower ^ are for 1100, 1200 and 1300 meters. I think that you're supposed to turn the elevation knob up for ranges above your zero range.

[inparidel 4]

With any optics that suit you, it'a a 3 MOA gun + or - at 100 yds depending in the luck of the asembly line draw.

[sulphur 7]

Sulpher,

I'm no ballistics guru but I'll bet if you use the top carat at 50, you will hit your target. Remember, a .223 round is leaving the muzzle @ about 3000 ft/sec.

50 yds is really close for that round.

 

Pogy,

 

Your very correct... At 50 yds I was getting very good groups.. when I moved to 100 yds is when they were not so good.. I was confusing myself with the scope and not understanding how to read the damn thing... I guess I forgot all the russian I learned when trying to read the instructions...

[MRW 0]

your rifle will shoot the worst with wolf. Try some Winchester FMJ or surplus M193, or even Federal American Eagle

 

Wolf and a scope don't seem to be that great of a combination with my saiga

[Skull 0]

It's a Minute of MethHead around here.

Around here it tends toward Minute-of-Liberal.

[U.S. Pratorean 1,234]

I have the 4X24 on my .223. Your 1"-2" groups can double at 100 yds, mine do.

At 100 yds, you should be sighting on the top carat, for 200 on the second one down.

Wolf ammo isn't the best but it works good enough for me for plinking.

My Saiga ain't no tack driver but as member "Bad Bob" put it (I believe it was Bob)

My gun shoots "one minute of perp" at 100 yards!

 

what carat at 50 yds should I be looking at?

With the 400 yd simonov recticle usually found on 4x24, 1.5-5x24, you are supposed to put the elevation knob (top) on the first click after zero for 50m. The number "one" corresponds to 100 meters, first click, 50 m., 2=200m and so forth with 7.62x39mm. Windage knob(right) should be at zero. I believe the chevrons are "quick" shot rangeing. The dragunov reticle in the higher mag scopes is as stated 1100, 1200 and 1300 m with 7.62x54R however initial zeroing is the same. This is how the instructions tell you to do this in commie speak. Download the manual from kalinkaoptics.com. This method works.

[pogy 5]

USP,

I was about take exception to your explanation until I downloaded the manual from Kalinka and read it. It is much more detailed than the one I got with my scope. While my rifle shoots fine at 100yds using the top carat, I will definitely try adjusting the range with the top turret this summer at the range.

Thanks

Edited April 15, 2007 by pogy

[U.S. Pratorean 1,234]

USP,

I was about take exception to your explanation until I downloaded the manual from Kalinka and read it. It is much more detailed than the one I got with my scope. While my rifle shoots fine at 100yds using the top carat, I will definitely try adjusting the range with the top turret this summer at the range.

Thanks

POGY, You can do it either way but this is what happens with me; When you zero at 100m with the elevation knob AT zero, when you shoot at distances under 100m, especially 50m you will have to aim about 6-8in HIGH. Yeah, you say high? seems backward but remember on these scopes to raise point of impact the reticle goes DOWN, go right, reticle goes left. The way they suggest, zero at "1" eliminates this plus if you engage at say 2 or 300m you need only click up to 2 or 3 respectively.