Saiga 308 Conversion questions.

[NumLock 0]

I've found a Saiga 308 16" in a local gun store for a good price and the only thing stopping me from getting it is several questions about converting it.

 

The guide here at http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/Step_1.htm has been helpful but from the picture thread and what I saw at the gun store the saiga 308 seems to be somewhat different than the .223 and 7.62x39 versions.

 

Specifically in Step two of that guide he drills out two pins right above the trigger, but in the picture thread I only see one pin above the trigger of the 308 and I can't recall having seen more than one on the rifle I looked at. Does this pin exist on the 308 Saiga, and where can I get real replacement pins for these pin(s)?

 

In step 7 he rewound the disconnecter spring around one of these new pins, if I got a real pin I wouldn't have to do this correct?

 

Finally, do the Saiga 308's have the pistol grip nut hole already cut?

 

For parts I figure :

G2 Fire Control group from Tapco

Butt Stock and Grip from K-Var

Replacement pins (for any I drill out)

Grip Screw and nut

 

Am I missing anything?

[gunguy51 0]

I've found a Saiga 308 16" in a local gun store for a good price and the only thing stopping me from getting it is several questions about converting it.

 

The guide here at http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/Step_1.htm has been helpful but from the picture thread and what I saw at the gun store the saiga 308 seems to be somewhat different than the .223 and 7.62x39 versions.

 

Specifically in Step two of that guide he drills out two pins right above the trigger, but in the picture thread I only see one pin above the trigger of the 308 and I can't recall having seen more than one on the rifle I looked at. Does this pin exist on the 308 Saiga, and where can I get real replacement pins for these pin(s)?

 

In step 7 he rewound the disconnecter spring around one of these new pins, if I got a real pin I wouldn't have to do this correct?

 

Finally, do the Saiga 308's have the pistol grip nut hole already cut?

 

For parts I figure :

G2 Fire Control group from Tapco

Butt Stock and Grip from K-Var

Replacement pins (for any I drill out)

Grip Screw and nut

 

Am I missing anything?

numlock the pins you are talking aren't on the 308 rifle just disreguard that step the pins that you can see that go through the reciver for hammer and triggerare there you need to get a retainer plate to hold the hammer and the trigger pins inplaceon the converison. hope this helps gunguy51

[NumLock 0]

numlock the pins you are talking aren't on the 308 rifle just disreguard that step the pins that you can see that go through the reciver for hammer and triggerare there you need to get a retainer plate to hold the hammer and the trigger pins inplaceon the converison. hope this helps gunguy51

 

Your talking about one of these right? http://dpharms.com/axis-pin-retaining-plat...3d341fc0d1ba223

 

Basically I ignore that step and use that plate and the G2 group and I'm done for that part of the conversion.

[Maniac Jack 2]

Speaking of questions, what is the best paint to use after you take that bottom plate off the gun? somebody mentioned it before, but I can't find the post. I scoured Cobra's walkthrough and still couldn't find it.

[layer 0]

After testing a bunch of different grill and engine paints, DupliColor Low Gloss Black Engine Paint was a perfect match for me.

[Bvamp 604]

you should just go and buy that thing before someone else does.

 

welcome to our little corner of the internet.

[layer 0]

Finally, do the Saiga 308's have the pistol grip nut hole already cut?

Yes, and the trigger hole too.

 

For parts I figure :

G2 Fire Control group from Tapco

Butt Stock and Grip from K-Var

Replacement pins (for any I drill out)

Grip Screw and nut

I highly recommend using the RedStar Arms VEPR .308 trigger group. If you use a G2, you need to do some grinding on the hammer, round up a disconnector spring for it, and (I think) you might have some trouble with the safety/selector lever. The RSA trigger is basically a drop-in, took me 5 minutes to install, and it comes with a disconnector spring. It costs more, but it is one SWEET trigger.

 

I also highly recommend you get a shepherd hook spring replacement to lock down the pins.

 

You don't need to replace any pins, all you have to drill out are the rivets and spot welds holding the plate down.

 

Am I missing anything?

Get yourself about 3 cobalt drill bits for those fu@king spot welds!

 

 

The .308 is the easiest Saiga to convert, even I could do it!

[czgunner 0]

After testing a bunch of different grill and engine paints, DupliColor Low Gloss Black Engine Paint was a perfect match for me.

 

+1 on that.

[NumLock 0]

Finally, do the Saiga 308's have the pistol grip nut hole already cut?

Yes, and the trigger hole too.

 

For parts I figure :

G2 Fire Control group from Tapco

Butt Stock and Grip from K-Var

Replacement pins (for any I drill out)

Grip Screw and nut

I highly recommend using the RedStar Arms VEPR .308 trigger group. If you use a G2, you need to do some grinding on the hammer, round up a disconnector spring for it, and (I think) you might have some trouble with the safety/selector lever. The RSA trigger is basically a drop-in, took me 5 minutes to install, and it comes with a disconnector spring. It costs more, but it is one SWEET trigger.

 

I also highly recommend you get a shepherd hook spring replacement to lock down the pins.

 

You don't need to replace any pins, all you have to drill out are the rivets and spot welds holding the plate down.

 

Am I missing anything?

Get yourself about 3 cobalt drill bits for those fu@king spot welds!

 

 

The .308 is the easiest Saiga to convert, even I could do it!

 

 

Thanks I think I got the complete idea on how to convert it.

[NumLock 0]

you should just go and buy that thing before someone else does.

 

welcome to our little corner of the internet.

 

The store had about 5 saigas (of various calibers) on their wall, and apparently the 308 sells well so the store keeps them in stock. One of the guys in there owned his own conversion but he had paid a gunsmith to do it, so he couldn't help me with my questions about converting it (and it wasn't on hand so I could look at it). The prices are competitive with online prices so I'm not surprised they sell well.