MadMaxx 0 Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Maybe I'm just totally confused...but.. The action on my G2 trigger feels wrong. The bolt seems to catch on cycling manually, having to give it a slight "nudge" forward. The trigger requires such a light touch in order to disengage the single hook holding the hammer back that there is enough free-play w/ the safety engaged to cause a fire condition. The trigger assembly itself has no play latterally, just enough force to disconnect (and right point when it touches the safety "cam"leading edge is where the release happens) What did I do wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greatmoose 4 Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 (edited) Don't think you did anything wrong. That seems to be a symptom of the G2's. Try here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=11427 Edited April 5, 2007 by greatmoose Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMaxx 0 Posted April 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Don't think you did anything wrong. That seems to be a symptom of the G2's. Try here: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=11427 Hmmm.. I may have to add a bit of epoxy to the safety cam to let it "stop" lower in the motion. And my cycle problem seems to be the new hammer breaking in. I've lubed everything well and cycled quickly a few times, seems to work rather well now. I never trust safeties much anyway (I dunno if that's good or bad LOL) -- I'd rather inspect the chamber and only chamber when ready to fire. But, I guess it's cheap insurance to fix it James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Many people smooth the hammers face to get some of the huge bump out of it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMaxx 0 Posted April 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Many people smooth the hammers face to get some of the huge bump out of it. I'm going to do a little polish work tonight, now that I can see where the metal is making contact. I'll also try and modify the safety cam. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5thShock 0 Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMaxx 0 Posted April 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 (edited) I would think twice about epoxy used to fix/modify a safety. Unfortunately, I don't really see any other way of fixing the issue. The trigger assembly is only so "tall", it's position is fixed via the axle pin. The cam on the safety is also only so deep/tall. Since the pressure required to release this trigger is less than stock, and the safety cam was also designed with a higher 'ridge" on the trigger, then there is no real good way around the issue. I can either modify the trigger height by adding material, modify the cam by adding material, or swap out the cam with a true AK version. I'd much rather modify the cam than trigger. Epoxy isn't going to really hurt anything, the safety system on the AK is nothing more than physical block of movement of the trigger. It encounters no real sheer forces (beyond what I can press w/ my finger), and in most cases, never sees use as a "reliance" when there is a live round in the chamber. I could just cut an all new cam out worst case Luckily for me, I exhibit no other problems. Disconnecter works like it should, cycling action was much better once everything was lubed. I am going to polish the action a bit to make it even smoother. That document was written for stock AK's from what it sounds like. Yes/no? Edit: Please forgive the horrible paint skills Edited April 5, 2007 by MadMaxx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 I guess I was lucky, I own a welder. Just added a blob of metal and cut it to match. You may be able to find a welder that will add a 1/4 inch of metal so you can file it to fit (welders charge money though). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
5thShock 0 Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 Yes it is for an AK, not a Saiga. Your drawings are good enough and clear. Please let us know how this works out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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