can i use JB weld on my saiga?

[jaak 0]

i want to clean up my saiga conversion, its a bit rough at the moment(looks wise) due to the holes from the old FCG and the shitty saiga finish... can i fill in the holes with jb weld, then sand flat and repaint? i have a sandblaster so getting the finish prepped is no concern, just want to make sure that jb weld is ok to use and wont come out or crack in those little holes. i dont have access to a welder, please dont say weld the hole... i have no desire to.

[44rdv4rk 0]

i want to clean up my saiga conversion, its a bit rough at the moment(looks wise) due to the holes from the old FCG and the shitty saiga finish... can i fill in the holes with jb weld, then sand flat and repaint? i have a sandblaster so getting the finish prepped is no concern, just want to make sure that jb weld is ok to use and wont come out or crack in those little holes. i dont have access to a welder, please dont say weld the hole... i have no desire to.

 

 

should work fine, just be sure to leave a little excess on the inside, to give more bonding area.

 

and clean the hell out of it with acetone beforehand.

 

 

edit: i'm not sure how it would stand up to sandblasting, though...

Edited May 1, 2007 by 44rdv4rk

[jaak 0]

i want to clean up my saiga conversion, its a bit rough at the moment(looks wise) due to the holes from the old FCG and the shitty saiga finish... can i fill in the holes with jb weld, then sand flat and repaint? i have a sandblaster so getting the finish prepped is no concern, just want to make sure that jb weld is ok to use and wont come out or crack in those little holes. i dont have access to a welder, please dont say weld the hole... i have no desire to.

 

 

should work fine, just be sure to leave a little excess on the inside, to give more bonding area.

 

and clean the hell out of it with acetone beforehand.

 

 

edit: i'm not sure how it would stand up to sandblasting, though...

 

i was actually planning on sandblasting the whole thing first, adding the jb weld after to bond to the prepped surface then paint. there would be enough on the inside to bond to it. will it hold up to the pressure/being fired? thats my main concern.

[44rdv4rk 0]

i want to clean up my saiga conversion, its a bit rough at the moment(looks wise) due to the holes from the old FCG and the shitty saiga finish... can i fill in the holes with jb weld, then sand flat and repaint? i have a sandblaster so getting the finish prepped is no concern, just want to make sure that jb weld is ok to use and wont come out or crack in those little holes. i dont have access to a welder, please dont say weld the hole... i have no desire to.

 

 

should work fine, just be sure to leave a little excess on the inside, to give more bonding area.

 

and clean the hell out of it with acetone beforehand.

 

 

edit: i'm not sure how it would stand up to sandblasting, though...

 

i was actually planning on sandblasting the whole thing first, adding the jb weld after to bond to the prepped surface then paint. there would be enough on the inside to bond to it. will it hold up to the pressure/being fired? thats my main concern.

 

i'd say try it, if it pops out, use the little snap-in buttons that indy likes.

[badman400 3]

jaak, you can also try bondo. good idea to sandblast first, and leave some squished through on the inside.

[methical160 0]

It'd probably work alright, but nylon hole plugs work perfectly and are a much easier solution.

[BobAsh 582]

You guys gotta be kidding.

[jaak 0]

You guys gotta be kidding.

 

 

about what? i want to fill in the holes. also, i have the ace internal reciever block, so keep that in mind. i dont want to look like every other home done conversion and have hole plugs. id like to have a real nice saiga when im done, that looks somewhat professional like.

[mccumber1916 1]

You guys gotta be kidding.

lol... bob you're mean

[BobAsh 582]

Maybe some of those little rhinestones would do the trick...you know, like chicks put on their cell phones.

[mccumber1916 1]

Maybe some of those little rhinestones would do the trick...you know, like chicks put on their cell phones.

 

that was the funniest thing i heard in a while

[jaak 0]

Maybe some of those little rhinestones would do the trick...you know, like chicks put on their cell phones.

 

 

feel free to get the fuck out anytime you like. sorry we all cant have tromix shotguns, not all of us have 1000 bucks laying around for something we can do at home for 600.

[BobAsh 582]

Lighten up, Francis.

[BobAsh 582]

Sure, I've got a Tromix, and it's a beautiful weapon. But I would sooner leave the holes as they are than put JB weld in 'em.

[Grrr 0]

If you don't back it up with something it probably won't hold. If you can't weld or rivet it, you can use the jb to "weld" a small square of metal inside and let it cure. Then finish filling the hole from the outside and sand. Finish it up with some regular bondo so you can use finer sand paper to get the scratches out. Before you paint it seal it with some kind of good sealing primer. The idea is to use the least amount of jb as possible and use the metal square in the back for the strenght. Good luck with it.

[mccumber1916 1]

Sure, I've got a Tromix, and it's a beautiful weapon. But I would sooner leave the holes as they are than put JB weld in 'em.

 

some people can't handle a joke...

i used a factory dragonuv stock cus i can't afford the conversion

[jaak 0]

If you don't back it up with something it probably won't hold. If you can't weld or rivet it, you can use the jb to "weld" a small square of metal inside and let it cure. Then finish filling the hole from the outside and sand. Finish it up with some regular bondo so you can use finer sand paper to get the scratches out. Before you paint it seal it with some kind of good sealing primer. The idea is to use the least amount of jb as possible and use the metal square in the back for the strenght. Good luck with it.

 

 

thanks. i might check into finding a shop that can weld up the holes. sounds like jb weld is a bad idea and not worth the work. guess i better pickup the phone book and start dialing.

 

 

i asked a serious question, i dont need some douchebag coming in here and saying "buy a tromix". yeah, they are nice... but overpriced. my gun performs the same as any tromix gun. it doesnt look as pretty but it could if i wanted. i havent nor will ever own a tromix. i cant justify the price when i can do it for so much cheaper. take your tromix and move on out.

[MikeD 541]

thanks. i might check into finding a shop that can weld up the holes. sounds like jb weld is a bad idea and not worth the work. guess i better pickup the phone book and start dialing.

I would bet just about any body shop around would love to weld it up. They probably wouldn't charge you but $20 bucks. Hell they might even do it for free. Maybe find a similar piece of metal and drill the same size whole in it to see how they do on it first before you turn them lose on your saiga.

Edited May 1, 2007 by Mike Davidson

[BobAsh 582]

"take your tromix and move on out. "...I guess you mean me?

 

I never said "buy a Tromix". I know lots of guys can't afford it, and this is a do-it-yourself forum.

 

My opinion remains unchanged however...JB weld is a bad idea on a firearm. At Tromix, we've made plenty of guns that are cobbled together and look rough, but run great. Tony's safe is full of 'em.

 

lol @ "douchebag" that's a first.

[quinci956 1]

i want to clean up my saiga conversion, its a bit rough at the moment(looks wise) due to the holes from the old FCG and the shitty saiga finish... can i fill in the holes with jb weld, then sand flat and repaint? i have a sandblaster so getting the finish prepped is no concern, just want to make sure that jb weld is ok to use and wont come out or crack in those little holes. i dont have access to a welder, please dont say weld the hole... i have no desire to.

 

 

 

Go to Wal-mart and buy the cheep wire welder. Practice on scrap metal and when you are ready fill in the holes, sand smooth, then go over it with your sand blaster for a uniform texture then paint.

I used the cleaning rod that came with my .223 to fill in the holes left by removing the Democrat trigger. The rod fit right through the hole and I welded it in place. I know the Saiga probably does not need the added strength of the extra pins in the frame but I figured that it could not hurt. So far (3) .223's, (2) 12 ga's, and (1) 762x39 and no problems.

[rocinante 100]

From what I read some people have problems with hollow points feeding. Most 7.62 x 39 bullets have 123 or 124 grains. Is this a superior bullet especially for stopping power, hunting, self defense? Because it has more umph will it be more accurate?

 

Also I am shooting with a Yugo SKS. Supposedly it is built for hotter loads. Anybody ever fire this ammo in a SKS? Yugo specifically.

 

Past that what are your recommendations for cheap, reliable ammo? What to avoid?

[reoiv 1]

Wow so angry about nothing.

 

Nylon hole plugs FTW. They are strong, don't cost anything and look like they belong there.

 

Especially if you are working on a budget. I've fired hundreds of rounds through with my Saiga and they haven't ever moved or budged. Even when my front sight bead wobbled loose.

 

If you really want it to 'look good,' well as good as an AK shotgun will look, then actually get them welded closed instead of trying JB weld.

[rocinante 100]

The problem is the nylon plugs will not fit with the internal block adapter. You have to cut them flush with the metal and they fall out.

[mccumber1916 1]

The problem is the nylon plugs will not fit with the internal block adapter. You have to cut them flush with the metal and they fall out.

 

that may be a decent JB spot

[joelrod47 373]

"take your tromix and move on out. "...I guess you mean me?

 

I never said "buy a Tromix". I know lots of guys can't afford it, and this is a do-it-yourself forum.

 

My opinion remains unchanged however...JB weld is a bad idea on a firearm. At Tromix, we've made plenty of guns that are cobbled together and look rough, but run great. Tony's safe is full of 'em.

 

lol @ "douchebag" that's a first.

 

Well, Bob, I guess you got told, huh?? (Whew !! ) heh, heh, heh..........

I'm thinking some people just can't take a joke, or good advice............Sensitive, sensitive.......

 

And,.........given your long-term presence here on this Forum, as opposed to a relative newbie (50 posts +/-), shouldn't you be addressed by a more personal insult, like:

 

DOUCHEBOB !!! (This is just too fuckin' ridiculous.............)

[KyleWeiss 0]

I'm cheap too and I think this thread is funny. I'm going to find a way to put rhinestones on my Saiga with JB Weld now.

 

KW

[BobAsh 582]

LOL @ "DoucheBob" I like it.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

From what I read some people have problems with hollow points feeding. Most 7.62 x 39 bullets have 123 or 124 grains. Is this a superior bullet especially for stopping power, hunting, self defense? Because it has more umph will it be more accurate?

 

Also I am shooting with a Yugo SKS. Supposedly it is built for hotter loads. Anybody ever fire this ammo in a SKS? Yugo specifically.

 

Past that what are your recommendations for cheap, reliable ammo? What to avoid?

 

Umm... sorry but what does this have to do with plugging or welding holes closed?

 

I have used the hole plugs with the Ace internal block and all you have to do is mill or drill out some material on the block insert to allow room for the plugs, just like you do on any AK stock.

 

If you wanted to use JB weld you could drill two small divots in the internal block to give the JB something to bond to, let it dry good and sand it flush. If you are careful you might not even scratch the surrounding area of the receiver. I did that on my first conversion, my 410, I put the old pins back in and used JB on the drilled ends. I've had that for a few years now with many rounds thru it. The pins are just as solid now as they ever were. I also used JB Weld on my AKS-12 conversion that turns heads everywhere it goes. I have had zero probs with it. If you prep the surface well and mix it right it will harden just like steel.

Lots of people like douchebob (sorry Bob, couldn't resist...lol) out there on gun forums will say JB has no place on a firearm ANYWHERE. Those people usually haven't actually tried it on something that requires strength and durablitity and had it work fine for them. I know a bunch of farmers who swear by it from experience. I know professional welders who have the ability to do it either way and still use the stuff sometimes.

Of course professional gunsmiths and manufacturers aren't gonna sing any praise for any "glue" on a gun but it's "elitist" to say you can't use it for minor cosmetic patchwork.

[jaak 0]

From what I read some people have problems with hollow points feeding. Most 7.62 x 39 bullets have 123 or 124 grains. Is this a superior bullet especially for stopping power, hunting, self defense? Because it has more umph will it be more accurate?

 

Also I am shooting with a Yugo SKS. Supposedly it is built for hotter loads. Anybody ever fire this ammo in a SKS? Yugo specifically.

 

Past that what are your recommendations for cheap, reliable ammo? What to avoid?

 

Umm... sorry but what does this have to do with plugging or welding holes closed?

 

I have used the hole plugs with the Ace internal block and all you have to do is mill or drill out some material on the block insert to allow room for the plugs, just like you do on any AK stock.

 

If you wanted to use JB weld you could drill two small divots in the internal block to give the JB something to bond to, let it dry good and sand it flush. If you are careful you might not even scratch the surrounding area of the receiver. I did that on my first conversion, my 410, I put the old pins back in and used JB on the drilled ends. I've had that for a few years now with many rounds thru it. The pins are just as solid now as they ever were. I also used JB Weld on my AKS-12 conversion that turns heads everywhere it goes. I have had zero probs with it. If you prep the surface well and mix it right it will harden just like steel.

Lots of people like douchebob (sorry Bob, couldn't resist...lol) out there on gun forums will say JB has no place on a firearm ANYWHERE. Those people usually haven't actually tried it on something that requires strength and durablitity and had it work fine for them. I know a bunch of farmers who swear by it from experience. I know professional welders who have the ability to do it either way and still use the stuff sometimes.

Of course professional gunsmiths and manufacturers aren't gonna sing any praise for any "glue" on a gun but it's "elitist" to say you can't use it for minor cosmetic patchwork.

 

 

thanks a bunch! think im going to do this, im just going to have to wait till after my lasik touchup.

[BobAsh 582]

LMAO Cobra...I guess you told me...

 

Well in any case, jaak, let us know how it turns out.