wlnt 2 Posted May 28, 2007 Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 (edited) I have learned a lot about coatings that can be applied to a Saiga polymer stock. All of the following are considered by the BEST by the member who posted the topic. Some involve baking, some bake them even though the instructions do not call for it, some require special primers, some no primers, the prices range from $3 a spray can to $20 (for DuraCoat or other 2 part coatings). If you have applied a coating to your Saiga plastic stock, how would you rate it and why? If it is not in the list please feel free to respond. Barbecue Grill Paint Engine Paint Duplicolor Paint. Epoxy spray paint. Krylon (what I used) DuraCoat etc. louielouie Edited May 28, 2007 by louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted May 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 (edited) Dinzag / Cobra 76 two / devin c1 / 30-40 krag dude and JK-47 all responded to this topic at: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=17113 louielouie Edited May 28, 2007 by louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted May 28, 2007 Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 You will not find a coating that is more chemical resistant then Norrell Moly Resin. It can handle an 8 hour MEK soak and will not come off with any type of chemicals including paint stripper. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted May 28, 2007 Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 +1^^^^ MolyResin is the toughest stuff I've used and much more user friendly in my experience than DuraCoat. I haven't tried their non-bake product, but if they claim the same results as the bake on, I'd believe it. An option would to bake at a lower temp for plastic parts. I prefer the SOCOM/Flat black over the semi gloss. It still has a dull sheen to it and look more "black" to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
30-40krag dude 2 Posted May 29, 2007 Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 i can understand wanting a paint that can stand up to solvents and such, but this is an ak. my cleaning is done with nothing more than a little CLP, a boresnake, and an old dry paintbrush. Are people really using other chemicals so heavily that getting them on the stock set is that big of a problem ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted May 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
30-40krag dude 2 Posted May 29, 2007 Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 perhapse i shall paint up a test piece with the krylon fushion and see how it reacts to other gun cleaners and such. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cscharlie 107 Posted May 29, 2007 Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 (edited) Molly resin would be my first choice. Edited May 29, 2007 by cscharlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 (edited) I don't know about solvents but I have used thee types of rattle can paints BBQ paint baked on, (can't recall the name) paint for metal, and krylon fusion (any hitting it really quick with a blow torch). I can see bare metal with the first two just behind the pistol grip, the krylon fusion seems to be doing fine. I am glad I just painted the receiver bottom of my conversions, otherwise I would have crappy BBQ paint flaking off of three rifles. I am sure the epoxy paints are good. And you know anything that Tony recommends is going to be the best there is. Edited May 30, 2007 by csspecs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red Jacket 329 Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 I havn't used Norrell's , but I'd take Tony's word on it . We use KG ind. Gunkote and once applied , if you want it off , bring a sandblaster [a big one] Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dinzag 31 Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 I'm just getting going on the Duracoat - seems pretty good. More options for colors, etc. I've used K&G in the past with good results too. BreakFree will remove your factory finish if you rub it in...be careful. It generally flashes off, but if it's trapped in a rag it will last longer. I used it just recently to clean up a messy factory serial # smear job and the rag started turning dark. It will damage Krylon, Duplicolor & standard oven/grill paint too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted June 1, 2007 Report Share Posted June 1, 2007 I'm just getting going on the Duracoat - seems pretty good.More options for colors, etc. I've used K&G in the past with good results too. BreakFree will remove your factory finish if you rub it in...be careful. It generally flashes off, but if it's trapped in a rag it will last longer. I used it just recently to clean up a messy factory serial # smear job and the rag started turning dark. It will damage Krylon, Duplicolor & standard oven/grill paint too. what do you use to paint your parts you make? that stuff is indestructable.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dinzag 31 Posted June 1, 2007 Report Share Posted June 1, 2007 I'm just getting going on the Duracoat - seems pretty good.More options for colors, etc. I've used K&G in the past with good results too. BreakFree will remove your factory finish if you rub it in...be careful. It generally flashes off, but if it's trapped in a rag it will last longer. I used it just recently to clean up a messy factory serial # smear job and the rag started turning dark. It will damage Krylon, Duplicolor & standard oven/grill paint too. what do you use to paint your parts you make? that stuff is indestructable.... Depends which parts - some of the older stuff was duplicolor & K&G gunkote - which is generally great - and lately it's been Duracoat. Might try some Moly soon just to say I did it & compare. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.