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Opinion on Stock Handguard


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I guess everyone's aware that the stock forearm/handguard is made of pretty stiff and dense material. It's hard enough to be hard to vent easily....

 

And hard enough to drill and tap for adding whatever rails or accessories one might like. I do use red Locktite or super glue whenever doing this. But I'm convinced the result is plenty strong enough for anything short of maybe day in and day out battle conditions. And fortunately, I only face that with the wife, and a gun isn't necessary...

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I didn't like mine, it felt unnatural to me so I vented my original and slapped it back on, now I'm happy.  

The Tapco Intrafuse handguards are pretty well-made and absolutely solid, (as some Tapco products are; e.g. Tapco G2 FCG, Tapco SAW grip, etc). They have a steel heat-shield on the lower handguard, j

IMHO, the stock handguard is hideous. That said, I've seen some members transform theirs into something that's not as bland or boring, with a sense of style. But I'm an old school guy, so I'll take th

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this is wat i did a lil diffrent i like it but yeh the handguard is tuff had somewat hard time to cut it all up but pleased with the results might buy another one and do a cleaner job since this is the fist time i tryed anything like this but wat u guys think

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Edited by berma051
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What does it take to melt a factory handguard? Talk of melting factory handguards has me worried. After slow firing just 40 rounds, I can barely touch the barrel without burning myself, but the handguard itself felt fine even at 100 rounds. I'm wondering what the threshold is?

 

 

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IMHO, the stock handguard is hideous. That said, I've seen some members transform theirs into something that's not as bland or boring, with a sense of style. But I'm an old school guy, so I'll take the classic two-piece wood set any day :P

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What does it take to melt a factory handguard? Talk of melting factory handguards has me worried. After slow firing just 40 rounds, I can barely touch the barrel without burning myself, but the handguard itself felt fine even at 100 rounds. I'm wondering what the threshold is?

 

 

 

Not exactly sure of a melting point, but it seems to be made of fiberglass impregnated Nylon. Most Nylon is good to about 300 F and the fiberglass will add some to that ... but, I'm no expert.

I did some cutting on mine and you could see the fiberglass fibers. Heat will melt it however, because the friction from a Dremel cutting wheel will get it started.

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The stock hand guard is too hot for me here in Az. After 30 rounds it is hot, and after 60 it is almost too hot to shoot. I don't think cutting breather holes in it will solve the problem so I ordered a UTG quad rail. I figure with the rubber rail covers on it will eliminate this problem. Plus stockers are just ugly IMO.

 

I had a Galil handguard on my 7.62x39 and later I changed and put it on my .308. I liked the looks of it but it never really fit my hand comfortably. I then got the UTG quadrail for my 7.62x39 and it felt way too bulky. After I installed it, I really didn't like to way it looked and not being a SWAT guy or mercenary I went back to the AK100 K-Var furniture and I am really glad I did. It felt more natural and had the classic AK look to it.

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Edited by Berzerker2
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What does it take to melt a factory handguard? Talk of melting factory handguards has me worried. After slow firing just 40 rounds, I can barely touch the barrel without burning myself, but the handguard itself felt fine even at 100 rounds. I'm wondering what the threshold is?

 

Over 400 degrees F.

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/69567-saiga-parts-meet-mr-oven/page__p__674800#entry674800

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Since I don't have a drill press or milling machine, and a not-so-steady hand, I just laid out and drilled (6) 5/16" dia. (buck-shot type) holes on my hand grip. They are spaced so later, if I get the nerve to do it, I can connect 3 sets of them for slots. I'm in the process of adding a new stock and as soon as I get a pistol grip bolt, and as soon as I get it all back together, I'll add a photo or two of my newly converted Saiga 7.62x39 with modified hand grip. I sloped / slanted the hand grip a few months ago. That, with the new holes look pretty sweet to me.

Edited by Foxtail207
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When I was modifying my forearm, I placed a piece of insulated aluminum foil between it and the barrel. It's a little cost prohibitive for me to shoot a couple hundred rounds in a few minutes to test the concept, but I think the insulation will prevent any melting of the stock forearm (at least for my style of shooting).

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There is another option for a factory style HG.I put a rhineland arms wooden HG on my Saiga.I went from this:PICT0040.JPGto:PICT0039.JPGand finallyAK%2520DONG1%2520033.JPGIt keeps your hand much cooler than the factory HG.It reminds me of the the wide HK G3 hand guard.Only downside is there are no rails,if your into that,to mount a flashlight.Also I'm not sure it would work with an ultimak without some modification to the HG.Overall I really like it and would recommend it to anyone who likes the factory style HG.The price was right too at 45.00 shipped.

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I've been looking at mods to factory HG's for my own version for about a year and a half I suppose. I initially came up with this modification/cut... What have you:

 

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This obviously didn't work with an UltimAK gas tube mount. A lot more dremel fu and filing was required for that.

 

I've been looking at mods to factory HG's for my own version for about a year and a half I suppose. I initially came up with this modification/cut... What have you:

 

post-20073-0-59653100-1321108359_thumb.jpg

 

This obviously didn't work with an UltimAK gas tube mount. A lot more dremel fu and filing was required for that.

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post-20073-0-22929100-1321108896_thumb.jpg

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