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"UNIVERSAL" magazines


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do the universal mags really cycle 2 3/4 shells well?

 

reason i'm asking is b/c the universal mags are less than half the price of the standard 2 3/4 mags.

 

i'll probably never use 3 inch shells but at that price i'd rather get the universal mags if they function as good as the standard 2 3/4 mags.

 

also what i dont understand is that the universal mags are supposed to cycle 2 3/4 and 3 inch shells. so why are they so much cheaper than the individual 2 3/4 and 3 inch mags?

 

it's almost like getting 2 mags for half the price of one. it doesn't make sense.

 

there's gotta be a catch.

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I've got some and sometimes they feed and sometimes they don't.I've got about a 100 rds. or so through this gun and it's still not relieable.Lot's of FTF and FTE.Hadn't shot alot of 3 in. shells mostly 2 3/4 ammo heavy loads.Light loads it won't even think about cycling.This is a really unrelieable gun for a AK action,I've got 5 7.62X39 AK's that I'd bet my life on.I'm going to call EAA and see what they tell me.

 

JEFF :unsure:

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Bushman, what brand and shotsize of ammo are you using (2 3/4)? Just curious...

 

I've shot my saiga about 200 times and the only problem I had was one FTE when I was screwing around one day with low brass 7 1/2's. I've shot everything from slugs to #8's and I've never touched my gas selector. I only shoot Federals...Nothing more, nothing less!

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Mostly S&B heavy load 7 1/2 shot.I've shot light load Remington #8 shot,a few Rem. 3 in. mag #6 shot,a few heavy load Winchester #5 shot.I've tried different gas settings,I have it on 1 now.Is the Federal ammo you've been shooting heavy loads or light loads?I've had some ammo that tries to feed in the chamber ,but it will cut the end of the hull.I guess you would call that a stove pipe.

 

JEFF :unsure:

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I try to use the heaviest loads I can...I use my saiga as my primary mode of home defense (18-inch barrel, pistol grip and pistol grip forend, flashlight, etc.) so i keep pretty heavy stuff in it...Magnum 000 buckshot, but when i go to the range, i shoot #4's and slugs, usually high brass magnums or the like, and i NEVER have problems...I'm willing to bet that the small shot size has alot to do with the problems you are having with FTF, FTE, stovepipe, etc...Are the rounds you use high brass? High brass rounds seem to feed extremely well compared to low brass among people i've talked to...Also, you should try to use rounds that have a higher amount of powder in them...More powder=more gas=improved performance of your gas piston=better feeds...Good luck!

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The S&B's I've shot the most have short brass on them but on the box it says they have 2 3/4 drams powder and 1 oz. of shot (#7 1/2).I hadn't tried any slugs,mine had a 22 in. barrel I had it cut down to about 20 in. and had screw in chokes put in.I also converted it to a pistol grip stock.

JEFF :super:

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I bought mine at a sporting goods store brand new for $215. It had an 18-inch barrel, a must in my opinion for an HD shotgun (narrow hallways and sharp corners are easier to navigate). My magazines are factory 5rd, but I am contemplating purchasing a pair of 10rd off of ebay. I can't decide if I should get one 2 3/4 and one 3 inch, or both the same. I already have one 2 3/4 and one 3 (banana clipped with waterproof tape, for all practical purposes). Both sizes seem to be sufficient, and cops I talk to like 2 3/4 better than 3. I'm torn! I don't think I want to risk a universal mag. Anybody else out there have a universal and have an opinion on them?

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the cheapest most reliable shells i've found were the winchester aa super sport 1300 fps 7 1/2 shot shells. they come in a black box and it says 1300 fps on the box.

 

these are low brass but they are brass bases and not aluminum bases.

 

they are about $4 a box at wal-mart.

 

i've never had one FTF or FTE!

 

once you get the action loosened up enough it will cycle the cheap cheap crap.

 

my saiga 12 did the same thing my 20 is doing.

 

had to start out with the strongest high brass to work it loose then go with the weaker stuff.

 

now my 12 cycles that crap that comes in the 100 round case for $14.

 

8 shot i believe. aluminum base. real crappy stuff that doesnt even break a skeet.

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SETTING ON #2.

 

2 IS FOR LIGHT LOADS. OPENS GAS PORTS.

 

1 IS FOR "MAGNUM" LOADS. CLOSES GAS PORTS.

 

AS STATED IN THE MANUAL THAT CAME WITH FIREARM.

 

MY SAIGA 20 WILL NOT CYCLE ANY LOW BRASS ON SETTING #1........YET.

 

HAVE NEVER HAD A MALFUNCTION WITH ANY HIGH BRASS.

 

HAD SOME FTE WITH THE LIGHTEST LOADS WHEN THE GUN WAS BRAND NEW.

 

BUT NEVER MISSED A BEAT WITH THE WINCHESTER AA SUPER SPORTS.

 

IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR THESE ROUNDS WATCH OUT.

 

WINCHESTER HAS 2 DIFFERENT LOADS THAT COME IN THE BLACK BOX.

 

MAKE SURE THAT THE ONES YOU ARE GETTING SAY 1300 FPS ON THE VELOCITY SPECS ON THE TOP OF THE BOX

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I tried some more heavy loads today and the same thing happened.This is the biggest POS I've ever owned.I called EAA Corp. today and the gunsmith was out today ,they said to call him back tomorrow or I can send it in for repair.I'm going to talk to him tomorrow,but I know I'll have to send it in. :cryss:

 

JEFF

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hmmmmmm.

 

some thing must not be right.

 

like i said i have the 12 and the 20 and never had any problems with the exception of the use of the light loads.

 

but that is with most semi 12 gauge shotguns.

 

my dad's browning won't cycle any low brass worth a crap.

 

everybody else that i know locally that bought a saiga is very very pleased with it.

 

maybe you just got a bad apple.

 

did you check to make sure that your gas ports are not clogged?

 

i took a curved carpet needle and passed it through all three gas ports.

 

just to make sure that they go all the way into the barrel.

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Well,I got my Saiga 20 back from EAA today with a note on the receipt saying it was no longer under warranty.They called it a remanufactuerd gun because it has be converted to a pistol grip and I had chokes put in yhe barrel ,I guess.So I guess I'll try to fix it myself. :unsure:

JEFF

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Could it be that since my gun had a 22 in. barrel from the factory,and I cut it down to 20 in. the gas ports are to small to make it cycle or eject?I thought maybe the gas ports are bigger on a 19 in. barrel.EAA could have at least called me back before sending it back to me to see if I wanted them to check it or fix it at my cost.

JEFF :cryss:

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damn that bites.

 

i have read somewhere on this site about them fte after cutting the barrel.

 

only thing i can say is take it to a smith and see if they can pinpoint the problem.

 

if it is indeed the ports that are the problem maybe he can correct it.

 

i wouldn't feel very comfortable messing with the ports on mine.

 

hope ya git'r fixed up good.

 

and thanks for the tip. now i KNOW that i'm not going to do that pg conversion.

 

but, i will rig me up a thumbhole stock that does not require the moving of the fcg.

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  • 2 months later...

Just wondering if there was a change in the gas settings between years cause I have a 2003 model and the instructions say:

 

"To set gas system for heavy or light loads (Options: Position 2 is for Magnum, heavey loads; Position 1 is for non Magnum loads)

 

Thats the exact quote complete with spelling errors.

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maybe its a misprint.

 

i took the cap off my gas block and looked at it closely.

 

there is a slant cut into the threads.

 

that slant is the opening that lets the gases into the tube.

 

if you turn it to the next setting it will shut off the gas to the tube.

 

thats how i figured out which setting mine needed to be on b/c my s12 manual didnt say a single thing about the gas settings.

 

it just makes sense, you need the gas in the tube on a lighter load so that it will give the carrier extra power to cycle fully.

 

magnum loads will put more force directly to the carrier without having to go through the tube.

 

so if you had your gas block open with a mgnum load you would be sending twice the amount of pressure needed to cycle the carrier.(dunno if that would hurt it anyway)

 

best thing to do would be to back the adjusting nut all the way out and see what position it would be at if it were threaded all the way in. take into consideration the location of the slant cut.

 

hope this helps!

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Well I took the cap off and looked at it again and your right about the slant on the cap lining up with the ports on setting 2. The first time out I had it set on 1 because I was using 2 3/4" 1oz. shells and it cycled fine I had no FT's of any kind. I think I'll keep it on 1 for less wear and tear on the gun. Untill I try sub 1oz loads that is.

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watch ebay and gunbroker. i've seen auctions for the actual saiga mount, made for the saiga line of firearms.

 

there are many other mounts out there but some don't hold zero and some require shimming and fitting to line it up properly.

 

im not sure which ones are best but i was assured that the saiga made mounts fit and function flawlessly on the saiga rifles and shottys.

 

but then, if you're planning on putting a red dot scope on you may have to have that mount that has the weaver base on top.

 

unless you get a red dot scope with a 1 inch tube dia.

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