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Making and reloading .410 Brass


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I found this info online and thought I would share the wealth.

Here are a few sights that talk about reloading brass shotgun shell casings and one that tells you how to make your own casings out of rifle cartridges.

 

http://www.endtimesreport.com/410reloading.html

This is some real good info

 

http://site.mawebcenters.com/lolosportingg...gtechbrass.html

Site about handloading Magtech brass.

 

Hope this helps someone out but it has me debating on getting a Saiga .410 before the 12 just for reloading purposes.

And since you can get some of the brass mentioned for around $30 per 100 rds it is better than getting the magtech brass.

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Well, Magtech brass is 2.5" so you'll never get it to cycle.

 

Yes he will if he uses the clip designed for 2.5" shells and changes the setting on the gas regulator.

 

Here is where to get a 2.5" clip for your Saiga-410. I bought one and it works great:

 

http://www.armsofamerica.com/magazines/saigamags.html -- clip for 410 2-1/2" shells is the forth one down on the page.

 

 

Oh, yah the method described for turning 9.3x74R brass into 3" .410 shells does work but in order not to get too much varience in the thickness of the resulting case from the fire-forming process your going to have to fiddle with it and I strongly recommend using a single shot break action .410 for this process instead of your Saiga. Once you get the brass properly formed then you can load it and use it in the Saiga.

Edited by turbo1889
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Well, Magtech brass is 2.5" so you'll never get it to cycle.

 

Yes he will if he uses the clip designed for 2.5" shells and changes the setting on the gas regulator.

 

Here is where to get a 2.5" clip for your Saiga-410. I bought one and it works great:

 

http://www.armsofamerica.com/magazines/saigamags.html -- clip for 410 2-1/2" shells is the forth one down on the page.

 

Not to be a nitpicker (okay, I am being a nitpicker!), the Saiga uses a magazine -- not a clip, a clip being something (such as a charger clip, stripper clip, enbloc clip, etc) that holds cartridges and is inserted into the magazine. That said, we all knew what you meant and what you mant was clear and accurate.

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Luckly I do have a single shot .410.

I was only posting the Magtech brass info incase someone did want to use it and was saying it would be less expensive in the long run to make your brass and use it that way.

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If you try it with the .303-Brit. brass make sure you do a good job with the annealing step otherwise they just split down the length instead of open up -- especially the brass from surplus Mil. ammo. The 9.3x74R goes a little easier and ain't near as fussy but it still needs to be annealed. I usually use the lead pot and bucket method rather then the torch and pie pan method. The lead pot and bucket method seems to produce better results with less fiddling with the process.

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Do you have any tips or tricks that you use for reloading the brass for a shotty?

 

Well, when I reload full length brass shells for the .410 I usually use a combination of these components:

 

~1/4 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~3/8 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~1/2 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~1/8 Nitro Card ( from midwayusa.com )

~410 Over Shot Card ( from midwayusa.com )

~Remington Shot Cup/Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

 

And Finally I add a little bit of Electricians Wire pulling lube to regular white glue and use this to glue things inside the shell when needed. The pulling lube is made up of mainly perafin wax with a little silicon and makes the white glue more brittle and wax like and less hard as rock when it dries.

 

Oh, yah, and I have found the best primer to use is Winchester Large Pistol -- the ones in the blue box that say they work for both standard and magnum loads. They are just right, not too hot so as to make flaky shotgun powders overheat and drive up pressures yet still hot enough to get the job done without any hangfires or duds.

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  • 8 months later...
Do you have any tips or tricks that you use for reloading the brass for a shotty?

 

Well, when I reload full length brass shells for the .410 I usually use a combination of these components:

 

~1/4 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~3/8 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~1/2 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~1/8 Nitro Card ( from midwayusa.com )

~410 Over Shot Card ( from midwayusa.com )

~Remington Shot Cup/Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

 

And Finally I add a little bit of Electricians Wire pulling lube to regular white glue and use this to glue things inside the shell when needed. The pulling lube is made up of mainly perafin wax with a little silicon and makes the white glue more brittle and wax like and less hard as rock when it dries.

 

Oh, yah, and I have found the best primer to use is Winchester Large Pistol -- the ones in the blue box that say they work for both standard and magnum loads. They are just right, not too hot so as to make flaky shotgun powders overheat and drive up pressures yet still hot enough to get the job done without any hangfires or duds.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hey Turbo... you said,

"Oh, yah, and I have found the best primer to use is Winchester Large Pistol -- the ones in the blue box that say they work for both standard and magnum loads. They are just right, not too hot so as to make flaky shotgun powders overheat and drive up pressures yet still hot enough to get the job done without any hangfires or duds."Does this mean no drilling/boring is required to press in the "Win LP" primers ?

Clay

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Hey Turbo... you said,

"Oh, yah, and I have found the best primer to use is Winchester Large Pistol -- the ones in the blue box that say they work for both standard and magnum loads. They are just right, not too hot so as to make flaky shotgun powders overheat and drive up pressures yet still hot enough to get the job done without any hangfires or duds."Does this mean no drilling/boring is required to press in the "Win LP" primers ?

Clay

 

Two different kinds of shells, I'm refering specifically to the brass "magtech" shells in that post. Basically the "magtech" brass comes unloaded and has a primer pocket on the bottom that is specifically made to use a standard american size/style large pistol primer. The ones you have to drill out to reload are the Russian mild steel cases from the "Silver Bear" and "Golden Bear" factory loads. If you have access to European reloading equipment and components you won't have to drill them out but I find it easier to just drill them out and use the U.S. components. On a side note if you make your own cases by annealing and fire-forming appropriate rifle brass the primer pockets should also be standard size to accept a standard american large rifle primer.

 

It's your choice --- buy American made "magtech" true brass hulls which are ready to use with standard american components or modify your empty Russian made cases to accept american components.

 

A secondary concern when loading metallic cases (either "magtech" brass or Russian reloads) is the fact that the wall thickness on the cases is not as thick as with plastic cases and therefor conventional 410 wads aren't a tight fit inside and powder can manage to migrate around the wad and up into the shot over time with handling. This is why I used the felt wads under the regular plastic wad. The felt wads because they were squishy would fix this problem when they were seated over the powder and under the standard plastic wad. For this purpose I now use an oversize 1/8" thick nitro card from circlefly.com this works better then the felt, gives me more room in the case, and is cheaper to boot. I keep a supply on hand of both of the two "oversizes" --- 0.430" and 0.450" diameter. For magtech and thick homemade brass from rifle cartridges the 0.430" is oversize enough to make a nice snug seal. For the even thinner walled steel cases the 0.450" ones fill the bill nicely. In addition I have found that the orange Downrange brand 410 plastic wads are superior to the Remington white wads I was previously using. Also buying my 0.450" overshot cards (all metallic hulls) from circlefly.com Still using the trick as far as mixing the wirepull lube with the glue stick to make a brittle waxy glue for the overshot cards but it's not necessary you can just use straight glue stick on the edges of the overshot card before pressing it into place. Just a little more time consuming to individually apply glue to the edge of each over shot card as apposed to just pressing it into place and then using the finger tip to wipe some wax/glue paste on top around the edge.

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Do you have any tips or tricks that you use for reloading the brass for a shotty?

 

Well, when I reload full length brass shells for the .410 I usually use a combination of these components:

 

~1/4 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~3/8 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~1/2 Fiber Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

~1/8 Nitro Card ( from midwayusa.com )

~410 Over Shot Card ( from midwayusa.com )

~Remington Shot Cup/Wad ( from midwayusa.com )

 

And Finally I add a little bit of Electricians Wire pulling lube to regular white glue and use this to glue things inside the shell when needed. The pulling lube is made up of mainly perafin wax with a little silicon and makes the white glue more brittle and wax like and less hard as rock when it dries.

 

Oh, yah, and I have found the best primer to use is Winchester Large Pistol -- the ones in the blue box that say they work for both standard and magnum loads. They are just right, not too hot so as to make flaky shotgun powders overheat and drive up pressures yet still hot enough to get the job done without any hangfires or duds.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Hi Turbo... thanks for the tips... being novice I was wondering if you could share what items & powder you use to reload the 3" Barnal hulls. I just got a reloader and am ready to purchase the components.

Thanks,

Claypij

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