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Greasing bolt locking lugs?


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Hi,

 

I was just wondering what consensious was on greasing the bolt locking lugs on the Saiga-12 was (i.e. - does anyone on the forum here do it?). I was reading on a webpage somewhere (and I can't seem to find it now) where a guy who owns a Saiga-12 lubed his locking lugs and the part of the chamber area they lock into using Valvoline Synthetic Marine grease (I think it was?). I always thought it was a no-no to have any kind of lubrication around any locking part of any firearm (maybe I'm thinking of the chamber though?). So, how do you all slick up your Saiga-12's before going out to shoot them? :unsure:

Edited by Gaddis
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I've been shooting my Saiga a lot lately (I guess I've fired about 200 rounds through it in the past week.) I haven't cleaned it in a while either but I haven't had one jam since I solved my magazine problem. Everyone around me is amazed at the reliability of this gun as I rap off mags full of light loads and heavy loads without a problem. The recoil is so low that I can contollably dump a clip on target in seconds, making the other guys seriously jealous. Most of them have Rem 1100s that keep having feed problems when they try to rapid fire. I've been trying to hide the smug look on my face but I can't help it. This is probably the best shotgun purchase I've ever made due to the price and performance.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Umm, I'd "deep-six" the idea of using WD-40 on any firearm unless you shoot it alot. "WD" stands for water displacement (slippery doesn't come to mind when I think of those two words together), besides, people who have used it in the past on firearms and reloading presses claim it gums stuff up coated with it if left in storage for awhile. As for cleaning out the gas chamber in a Saiga-12, I found out that one of those 20 gauge plastic patch jags (the ones with the collapsable "fingers" on them) does a bang up job for that task.

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Gaddis...

You hit it square on the head, WD=Water Displacement. However, it is a somewhat cheap quick cleaner in a rush. Wouldn't use it in place of your other favorite gun cleaners for serious cleaning. Seems that alot of people think that it has some lubrication properties for some reason. It does seem to attract dust. "Deep-six", haven't heard that one since I retired from the Navy.:lolol:

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Hi duffman,

 

Well, I think I lifted the "deep six" phrase off the Skipper in Gilligans Island (so I guess that would be close enough? :lolol: ). As for the WD-40, the only use I've heard it has for firearms is to give your hunting rifle or shotgun a quick squirt down after getting caught out in the rain. But then, the general rule was (like you pointed out) was to go back and clean it better with regular gun care products.

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Well, I don't want to get anyone riled up, but, I have a bunch of AKs, so I thought I might add a few words.

 

Yes. The AK is very reliable and forgiving. This leads many people to conclude that it doesn't need much care. If you are in "the field" far away from the comfort of the indoors, and your life depends on it being loaded at all times, it will let you abuse it a bit. However for most of us with them in our closets or safes, we tend to care for our guns to make them perform and last.

 

The AK variant is, after all, a third world tool. As such, it is very forgiving, but you canot just throw it in the closet after an all day tropical downpour like the kind I have been in here in Florida or the Yucataan. The reason an AK will rust at the mention of humidity if not slathered in oil is because it is of a lower grade steel than are its first world counterparts like an HK or AR, etc. So, even though they are forgiving, they will wear faster than the first world guns.

 

Consequently, I am a big believer in using a Teflon impregnated grease on the rails of ALL my guns, rifles and pistols. I treat all my bores and lube other parts with Teflon oil as well. There are great--and expensive--products like Militec and Tetra oils and greases out there. I use them as well on my more expensive pistols. However when you shoot as much as I do, it can get real expensive real quick. I have addressed that problem by making my own Teflon lubes. My gun oil is a 50-50 mixture of CLP Breakfree and Greased Lightning engine oil additive from the auto parts store (about $3 per 8 oz.). Greased Lightning is loaded with PTFE (Teflon). My rail grease is 2/3 pure white lithium grease (by the tube) mixed with 1/3 Greased Lightning. Just like with the expensive stuff, the heat of the gun bonds the Teflon to the metal. Even clean and wiped down, my guns' parts feel as slick as a new, dry bar of soap. This is especially true where the heat is the greatest. My AR bolt and piston are quite slick even when dry. My bores feel permanently waxed as well. This results in a little ballistics goose amd longer barel life. I re-apply a light coat after every cleaning to keep it built up.

 

The stuff is so slick that the first two shots out of my pistols or rifles will print a little low. This is because the sights on your guns are designed to consider that the muzzle begins to rise before the bullet leaves the barrel. The first two shots out of a freshly coated bore will actually leave the barel sooner than they would with oil or nothing. Consequently, it will print lower becaue the barrel has not risen as high as it normally would by the time they leave the muzzle. The trajectory returns to normal after the excess is purged out with the first two rounds.

 

To get the max life out of your AK variant and all your guns, I would highly recommend high tech lubes.

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