muttman2 0 Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 I found this on the web and figerd some of you .308 types might like. http://www.jardinc.com/ak47.htm comes in a 2# and 3#. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 ill place my order next friday Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dasu 1 Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 great! btw, they just came out with a FAL trigger too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArcFault 4 Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 Looks interesting, I wish that their site gave a little more info though. GunHustler, if you get one can you post some more detailed pics? Maybe a little writeup? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fossten 1 Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 Jard has a VERY high reputation of making EXCELLENT triggers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 Jard has a VERY high reputation of making EXCELLENT triggers. ...... but they don't know d**k about AKs. I was reading their manual and it is full of 'made up names for the parts of an ak'. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArcFault 4 Posted September 8, 2007 Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 Jard has a VERY high reputation of making EXCELLENT triggers. ...... but they don't know d**k about AKs. I was reading their manual and it is full of 'made up names for the parts of an ak'. Could still be a good trigger though. Were they at least good made up names? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheGunHustler 3 Posted September 8, 2007 Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 Looks interesting, I wish that their site gave a little more info though. GunHustler, if you get one can you post some more detailed pics? Maybe a little writeup? will do!!!!!!! it will probibly be 2 weeks before i order i just bought a tauris .357 today Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sauerquint 2 Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fossten 1 Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
muttman2 0 Posted September 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 GunHustler, if you get one can you post some more detailed pics? Maybe a little writeup? will do!!!!!!! it will probibly be 2 weeks before i order i just bought a tauris .357 today you lucky dog. muttman2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
netpackrat 566 Posted September 10, 2007 Report Share Posted September 10, 2007 (edited) Well, there is at least one guy who doesn't like Jard over on Gunco.net, but I suspect you knew that: http://www.gunco.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34659 Edited September 10, 2007 by Netpackrat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BattleRifleG3 16 Posted September 13, 2007 Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 The angle of the picture may be deceiving, but that FCG almost looks as though the trigger and disconnector leave room for the hammer not to be retained if held in the right position. Actually, on second observation, it also looks like it's guaranteed to give major trigger slap, if the trigger hooks are supposed to fit in the notches on the sides of the hammer. An isometric view would be most helpful in putting my fears to rest. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted September 13, 2007 Report Share Posted September 13, 2007 (edited) One easy way to make adjustable triggers, is to weld a little metal on the back of the trigger and drill for a tap screw to adjust the trigger like the red star does, the metal goes weld on the 2 legs that hold the springs that set the trigger back after you pull on it. If you guys want some adjustable trigger, and if I was you, I will ask dinzag to make few probably will be cheaper and they will work, out of some G2 or FSE triggers or even mod the trigger that you have on your gun. Just my two cents of nonsense. Edited September 13, 2007 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
muttman2 0 Posted September 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 Well, there is at least one guy who doesn't like Jard over on Gunco.net, but I suspect you knew that: http://www.gunco.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34659 yes but if you read post #9 he has one on order. the review of a fal hts on the fal files it works with no problems, no range time as of last post. muttman2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
muttman2 0 Posted September 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 One easy way to make adjustable triggers, is to weld a little metal on the back of the triggerand drill for a tap screw to adjust the trigger like the red star does, the metal goes weld on the 2 legs that hold the springs that set the trigger back after you pull on it. If you guys want some adjustable trigger, and if I was you, I will ask dinzag to make few probably will be cheaper and they will work, out of some G2 or FSE triggers or even mod the trigger that you have on your gun. Just my two cents of nonsense. vjor, you have a good ideas. what if a side plate was added and drilled and taped at bolth ends to 1) remove over travel / set the release point of the hammer, and 2) on the back side set the starting point of the triger pull. just my nonsense not worth $.02 muttman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted September 15, 2007 Report Share Posted September 15, 2007 (edited) One easy way to make adjustable triggers, is to weld a little metal on the back of the triggerand drill for a tap screw to adjust the trigger like the red star does, the metal goes weld on the 2 legs that hold the springs that set the trigger back after you pull on it. If you guys want some adjustable trigger, and if I was you, I will ask dinzag to make few probably will be cheaper and they will work, out of some G2 or FSE triggers or even mod the trigger that you have on your gun. Just my two cents of nonsense. vjor, you have a good ideas. what if a side plate was added and drilled and taped at bolth ends to 1) remove over travel / set the release point of the hammer, and 2) on the back side set the starting point of the triger pull. just my nonsense not worth $.02 muttman Yes you can do that, but I will put it a little bit high, and make sure the return spring fit on the back legs of the trigger, make sure you check for the claw still engage the trigger after the disconnector let it go, see you can do a lot stuff to anything, just make sure doers not get in the way of other stuff, I was thinking of that, doing a side plate on the side of the trigger instead of under the back legs of the trigger, but just in the back, to change trigger pull, really don't care much for the over travel, one thing I will say, if you can adjust the trigger to the least of pull in pounds is really easy to bump fire the gun that way but at the same time you have to be conscientious of not getting small bump fire burst of 2 or 3 rounds if you use a week hand, but having a crisp trigger will give you better accuracy and less pull will give you better accuracy, anything that let you move the least before you shoot will help big time, if you see the trigger is complicated and easy at the same time plus if U use a screw you can always come back to more pull if something does not work right. And as you set the screw for less pull, you will see that the claw engages less of the ear of the hammer , one thing I have done is to grind the face of the claw in and angle, like that is less metal against metal give really a crisp trigger, but if anything goes wrong is no way back, I just saw a post in here were some one got a trigger were the claw was on and angle and the guy grind or file it to be flat against the ear of the hammer, I say nothing because a lot of people do know what they have, that trigger probably was a lot smooth with the face of the claw on angle but hey what can you say to people that dont know much and fallow what some other people say that don't know much or have any idea of what they have. Just remember with trigger work always be safe, and to test always with one or 2 rounds on the mag to see how it works and shoot troubles and dont scare the crap out of the range masters and never cut or grind the claws of ear on the hammer and trigger short it may work but if anything goes bad things cannot get fix easy. Just my 2 cents of nothing. Edited September 15, 2007 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
muttman2 0 Posted September 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 One easy way to make adjustable triggers, is to weld a little metal on the back of the triggerand drill for a tap screw to adjust the trigger like the red star does, the metal goes weld on the 2 legs that hold the springs that set the trigger back after you pull on it. If you guys want some adjustable trigger, and if I was you, I will ask dinzag to make few probably will be cheaper and they will work, out of some G2 or FSE triggers or even mod the trigger that you have on your gun. Just my two cents of nonsense. vjor, you have a good ideas. what if a side plate was added and drilled and taped at bolth ends to 1) remove over travel / set the release point of the hammer, and 2) on the back side set the starting point of the triger pull. just my nonsense not worth $.02 muttman Yes you can do that, but I will put it a little bit high, and make sure the return spring fit on the back legs of the trigger, make sure you check for the claw still engage the trigger after the disconnector let it go, see you can do a lot stuff to anything, just make sure doers not get in the way of other stuff, I was thinking of that, doing a side plate on the side of the trigger instead of under the back legs of the trigger, but just in the back, to change trigger pull, really don't care much for the over travel, one thing I will say, if you can adjust the trigger to the least of pull in pounds is really easy to bump fire the gun that way but at the same time you have to be conscientious of not getting small bump fire burst of 2 or 3 rounds if you use a week hand, but having a crisp trigger will give you better accuracy and less pull will give you better accuracy, anything that let you move the least before you shoot will help big time, if you see the trigger is complicated and easy at the same time plus if U use a screw you can always come back to more pull if something does not work right. And as you set the screw for less pull, you will see that the claw engages less of the ear of the hammer , one thing I have done is to grind the face of the claw in and angle, like that is less metal against metal give really a crisp trigger, but if anything goes wrong is no way back, I just saw a post in here were some one got a trigger were the claw was on and angle and the guy grind or file it to be flat against the ear of the hammer, I say nothing because a lot of people do know what they have, that trigger probably was a lot smooth with the face of the claw on angle but hey what can you say to people that dont know much and fallow what some other people say that don't know much or have any idea of what they have. Just remember with trigger work always be safe, and to test always with one or 2 rounds on the mag to see how it works and shoot troubles and dont scare the crap out of the range masters and never cut or grind the claws of ear on the hammer and trigger short it may work but if anything goes bad things cannot get fix easy. Just my 2 cents of nothing. I think there is the right amount of room in the triger area to make this happen. Ill give it a try with an old triger set from one of my builds. muttman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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