Automatic Bolt Hold Open?

[Archael 0]

Has anyone modified their S308 to stick open on an empty magazine? I'm pretty sure the S 12's are so is the technology transferrable? I'm interested in this weapon being my primary MBR but it MUST have an ABHO.

 

Help?

[Archael 0]

So 64 looks but no responces? Could the hold open people are using on the 12's work for the .308's?

[SOPMOD 254]

Jeric went to great lengths to make one for the S12 but I believe it requires you to yank the charging handle to drop the bolt on a fresh magazine which is not a bolt release switch on the left side of the weapon like most users actually expect from a LRBHO.

 

This guy did the "AK Catch" but I haven't heard a great deal about it and I have not remembered to order one and try it out since the engineering looks sound and the parts look heavy duty.I'll eventually do one on a 7.62x39 Saiga but I have been focusing on 223s,308s and other unsupported calibers for the last couple of years and need to get another Saiga 7.62x39 to try it out on.

 

http://www.geocities.com/akcatch/

 

 

 

This guys says it could probably be adapted to any AK but has not tried it himself so only offers it for the proven 7.62x39 version.

[Archael 0]

yanking the charging handle would be fine i just wanted some verification the rifle was dry. once you drop in a new mag you need to pull the bolt back to catch the first round anyway. I guess it's a moot point but i dunno...i was just feeling for answers thanks

[1liter 20]

Waiting for someone with $100 burning a hole in their pocket to try this out.

[netpackrat 566]

This guy did the "AK Catch" but I haven't heard a great deal about it and I have not remembered to order one and try it out since the engineering looks sound and the parts look heavy duty.I'll eventually do one on a 7.62x39 Saiga but I have been focusing on 223s,308s and other unsupported calibers for the last couple of years and need to get another Saiga 7.62x39 to try it out on.

 

According to the site, it wasn't designed for or tested with .308 rifles, and also you would have to remove your scope side rail by drilling out the rivets, in order to drill the hole that is required to install the BHO device. A relief would have to be cut on the back of the rail, and then it would have to be reattached. This could be done with machine screws, but it would be best to reinstall it using rivets, as original. This isn't exactly for the faint of heart.

[netpackrat 566]

Waiting for someone with $100 burning a hole in their pocket to try this out.

 

Well, I have a couple of worthless, hacked up G3 mags cluttering my workbench, so it is somebody else's turn...

[SOPMOD 254]

This guy did the "AK Catch" but I haven't heard a great deal about it and I have not remembered to order one and try it out since the engineering looks sound and the parts look heavy duty.I'll eventually do one on a 7.62x39 Saiga but I have been focusing on 223s,308s and other unsupported calibers for the last couple of years and need to get another Saiga 7.62x39 to try it out on.

 

According to the site, it wasn't designed for or tested with .308 rifles, and also you would have to remove your scope side rail by drilling out the rivets, in order to drill the hole that is required to install the BHO device. A relief would have to be cut on the back of the rail, and then it would have to be reattached. This could be done with machine screws, but it would be best to reinstall it using rivets, as original. This isn't exactly for the faint of heart.

 

 

Saiga rivets are hardened and any BS rivet you can squash yourself will be a joke by comparison so precision drilled,tapped and threaded machine screws is the only real option and having built over half a dozen AKs from kits over the years gives me some confidence in that area but I just don't have a gun that I want to try it on right now.

 

I do however have 90% of a Saiga 308 parts kit from a cut gun that might be perfect for trying this out but I need to figure out what I will used ofr a receiver first:D

Edited September 24, 2007 by SOPMOD

[Over DaHill 0]

Waiting for someone with $100 burning a hole in their pocket to try this out.

 

Well, I have a couple of worthless, hacked up G3 mags cluttering my workbench, so it is somebody else's turn...

 

Ya mean that it only took 1 minute to f*&^ up the G3 mags?

LOL

Joe

Just looking at posting times of 12:24 and 12:25AM - Sorry no offense intended.... Still LOL!

[netpackrat 566]

Saiga rivets are hardened and any BS rivet you can squash yourself will be a joke by comparison so precision drilled,tapped and threaded machine screws is the only real option and having built over half a dozen AKs from kits over the years gives me some confidence in that area but I just don't have a gun that I want to try it on right now.

 

If the Saiga rivets were made of hardened steel, they wouldn't be able to drive them. For somebody who claims to have built over a half dozen AKs you seem to have no clue about how solid rivets work, or the shear strength requirements of AK rivets (actually pretty low). A solid rivet is superior to a threaded fastener where thin sections are involved (like, say, an AK receiver), because when driven they will actually expand to fill the hole, such that there will be zero slop in the final fit of the rivet. A threaded fastener cannot do this, and will actually get slightly thinner as it stretches, when it is tightened. This is one of the reasons why a screw built AK is inferior to one using properly driven, solid rivets. If there is the slightest bit of slop in the initial fit, the screw build will eventually work itself loose, and then damage the holes in the thin sheet metal. A rivet build is actually more forgiving in this regard, since the rivets will eliminate the slop as they are driven, unless there is just too much. And at that point is is usually no big deal to drill for the next size rivet.

 

Other than ease of installation, the only possible advantage to using screws to attach a scope rail would be to allow for some intentional slop, so that the position of the rail can be adjusted for an accurate bore sight. The same cautions above would apply, since the screws can get loose and ruin that alignment. In the case of the Saiga, since you already have factory drilled holes that should be accurate (unless you screwed them up with improper technique drilling out the rivets), the only real advantage to screws is to avoid the need for riveting tools and skills. I actually HAVE built a half dozen AKs from kits, all rivet builds. 3 of them have scope rails riveted to the receivers. As I said before, the riveting is NOT for those without the skills and tools, but IF you can manage to use rivets instead of screws, you will end up with a more durable (re) installation. All that is really required for tooling is an air hammer with the proper attachments (an aircraft rivet gun gives better control), and a large bolt for bucking the rivet inside the receiver (you clamp the bolt in your bench vise). And lots of practice on scrap material.

[Azrial 1,091]

A screw built AK will always be inferior to a rivet built gun. Yet many are the excuses for not learning to property hammer a rivet.

[G O B 3,516]

Steam boilers and ships hulls were and sometimes are riveted. None are or were bolted. And the number and size of bolts at every connection in modern buildings shows you that it takes more and larger bolts to achieve the same clamping force of rivits.

Bolts have to be screwed together, putting severe stresses in the metal. Rivits are forged in place. The soft steel rivit is forged by the hammer or press. The grain of the metal flows evenly. And the clamping forces are evenly distributed to the parts clamped, as well as in the body and heads of the rivit. When set properly, the rivit is no longer soft. It is forged steel. And work hardened.