MikeD 541 Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 reoiv, compare your bolt to the pics. Notice there is a pretty good amount of material removed in the pics Tony posted. I haven't forgot you either. I have a lot of pic of a lot of different stuff to take tomorrow and the feed ramp mod pic is on the list for you. Sorry for the delay in posting other pics. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
reoiv 1 Posted October 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 (edited) reoiv, compare your bolt to the pics. Notice there is a pretty good amount of material removed in the pics Tony posted. I haven't forgot you either. I have a lot of pic of a lot of different stuff to take tomorrow and the feed ramp mod pic is on the list for you. Sorry for the delay in posting other pics. Yeah I can see where the shells have been rubbing in those spots on my bolt. I can literally see my bolt drag right across the tops of the next shell each pass, I wonder, does smoothing out the bold like this also help to keep the next shell from being deformed if left loaded? I know both you and Tony are busy as hell right now, just glad you guys are taking the time to explain this stuff. The nice thing is the pics will help everyone Edited October 29, 2007 by reoiv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1liter 20 Posted October 29, 2007 Report Share Posted October 29, 2007 Hey Tony, can you show a side by side of the bolt. One being polished the other stock to see how much material is taken off. Or any one else for that matter, know your busy Tony. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wally 2 Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 If you see shiny areas-the coating has been rubbed off thats some of the areas that need polishing,the long stem like part of the bolt that slides into the carrier polish it, take the bolt apart the big tooth pic looking part thats inside of the bolt polish the sides of it that rides on the inside of the bolt,just about any metal to metal contact areas can stand to be polished. the stuff I use looks like emery cloth but its almost as smooth as a sheet of paper, when finished clean off all parts and lube Quote Link to post Share on other sites
busy_squirrel 1 Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 Sounds like a fabulous and useful idea you got there Gary! Make a single post and call it "HELP" in the Tech Section, then label each link as to what problem it addresses. As per the truth that "no good deed goes unpunished...", I am happy that you have volunteered to make this a better board for us all. You are to be commended and given some kind of recognition medal by Makc. (he should be able to pick one up in Russia wholesale) Thanks Gary! Yea Gary!Anonymous I second the motion.... All in favor, say aye... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mindfork 0 Posted October 31, 2007 Report Share Posted October 31, 2007 Thanks for those pics, Tony. Definitely quite a bit lower profile bolt! Looks like a job for the dremel. REOIV: I don't think shaving the bolt will have much effect on top round deforming. It looks like a lot of material is off (and it is) but in reality probably won't change the compression on that top round much. The EASIEST fix for top round deforming over time is to just load a 10 round mag with bolt open, chamber the top round and leave 9 in the mag. That leaves enough extra space at the bottom of the mag for that round to move down without being squashed. 10+1 is nice, but 9+1 should get the job done in a HD/SD situation. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeD 541 Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Click on the pics to make them bigger and markings more visible! After they enlarge click the pic again to make it even bigger. The feed mod is first. I used my dremel with a carbide cutter (dremel bit #9910). The first pic is original and the second is modded. The areas in blue should be left in tact. The bottom area in blue will probably get scuffed up and that is fine. Just don't change the angle of that area or let you bit dig into it. The area in red is the area to mod. Shave it down a full pass at a time from right to left. Match the angle of the bottom area in blue. Once you get it down level to the bottom area in blue you are good. Don't get into the top area in blue. This area helps firm up your shell in the chamber and you don't want to alter it. By doing this mod it makes a low feeding round go right in for the most part rather than jamming up on the overhang. Take your time on this. Turn your dremel speed down, hold it with both hands and press your top hand against the receiver to give you better control. Bracing you gun in a vise or between something with a little weight to it helps. The next mods are some slight polishing. I didn't make a mirror polish or anything, just slicked it up good. The areas in red on the bolt carrier and the hammer rub each other. I slicked them up to give less friction. The areas in yellow on the bolt rub the top of the next round and I slicked them up for the same reason. You will be able to tell a noticeable difference in the smoothness of the action by polishing these areas. Some people polish even more areas. These mods are by no means necessary or anything and I have only done them to one of my guns just for a fun thing. The areas in yellow on the hammer was polished to make the trigger pull slightly smoother. If you have a single hook trigger you only need to do the left side with the hook. All the mods mentioned here only takes about 20 to 30 minutes. If your anything like me, be ready to take a shower after you shave down the feed area. Those loose metal shavings eat my ass alive. 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mindfork 0 Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Thanks Mike, I'll add that to my list of eventual gun mods. Looks like it will really help feeding be as reliable as possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1liter 20 Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Post #37 should be stickied in the tech section! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeD 541 Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Thanks Mike, I'll add that to my list of eventual gun mods. Looks like it will really help feeding be as reliable as possible. No problem. Others here have done it as well. I'm sure it has been posted before but I couldn't find it if it had been. I had a couple AGP mags that had a low feed on them. The first few rounds was jamming on the overhang. Before I tweaked the mags in, I did the mod and the problem was solved. I didn't have a single round jam from a low feed after the mod in around 30 to 40 attempts to make it. THEN I tweaked the mags. Post #37 should be stickied in the tech section! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
reoiv 1 Posted November 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Thanks so much Mike! Your pics along with the ones Tony posted are exactly what I needed. I did the bolt this past weekend and already I noticed it was quite a bit smother than it used to be. I will do the bolt carrier, hammer and the ramp tonight most likely. +1 on the metal shavings and splinters ugh. About as bad when you work with some of the really hard woods (Ebony and Bloodwood) and just get covered in dust, splinters, smoke etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeD 541 Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Thanks so much Mike! Your pics along with the ones Tony posted are exactly what I needed. I did the bolt this past weekend and already I noticed it was quite a bit smother than it used to be. I will do the bolt carrier, hammer and the ramp tonight most likely. +1 on the metal shavings and splinters ugh. About as bad when you work with some of the really hard woods (Ebony and Bloodwood) and just get covered in dust, splinters, smoke etc. No problem! Most trees don't bother me here. Now a cedar or juniper needles will eat me up. They makes me look like I have chicken poxs for about an hr if I get in them. Which being a tree guy for the last 9 yrs was pretty often. Glad to be leaving them behind. Climb trees or play with guns? I think I'll be playing with guns from here on out! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thunderbear 2 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Thanks so much Mike! Your pics along with the ones Tony posted are exactly what I needed. I did the bolt this past weekend and already I noticed it was quite a bit smother than it used to be. I will do the bolt carrier, hammer and the ramp tonight most likely. +1 on the metal shavings and splinters ugh. About as bad when you work with some of the really hard woods (Ebony and Bloodwood) and just get covered in dust, splinters, smoke etc. No problem! Most trees don't bother me here. Now a cedar or juniper needles will eat me up. They makes me look like I have chicken poxs for about an hr if I get in them. Which being a tree guy for the last 9 yrs was pretty often. Glad to be leaving them behind. Climb trees or play with guns? I think I'll be playing with guns from here on out! As a forester, I hope my career path mirrors yours Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Looks like I have some work to do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paladin 37 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 (edited) I been following this and I polished as Tony/Mike showed with a dremel and two different polishing compounds and there was a very noticeable difference in trigger pull and smoothness of action. I also polished the trigger and hammer retaining pins. I tried the infamous bump firing for the first time and I emptied the mag so fast people came over from other lanes to see the "automatic" weapon I was firing. "yea-it's an AK" Edited November 7, 2007 by Paladin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeD 541 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 Glad you guys are diggin it. Let us all know your results as you get them. You guys that are doing other funtion improvin and smoothin mods post them and pics if you can. Like your polished pins, Paladin. Maybe we can make this thread useful enough to get the whole thing pinned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RollingThunder 0 Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 It looks like some sort of metal magwell on this pic in post 37 .What is it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeD 541 Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 It looks like some sort of metal magwell on this pic in post 37 .What is it? That is just a AGP magazine in the gun. I am using my finger to push the follower down so you can see the mod. I guess I should have just removed the magazine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
topmaul 42 Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 The above smoothing is about all I have done to both S-12 in my house, also if your using low power ammo take out that darn buffer. My son was not using his normal ammo last Saturday and had a lot of jamming problmes. We took the buffer out and it ran like a champ with Ultra-Low Recoil Feochie Ammo and the same Federal stuff that gave him a hard time. His gun eat it all. The Topmaul buffers are made out of 1/4 rubber sheet (gasket Material) Just cut it out to look like a regular buffer and your guy will work and your recoil will be reduced a bit. These buffers don't last all that long but they work. And do not adversly effect the function of the gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stimpsonjcat 0 Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I posted the simple bolt mods like 4 years ago...But pretty much the pics in this thread are the same thing. Glad to see folks are finally finding the cajones to 'mess with their bolts'...back when I originally posted there was some reluctance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeD 541 Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I posted the simple bolt mods like 4 years ago...But pretty much the pics in this thread are the same thing. Glad to see folks are finally finding the cajones to 'mess with their bolts'...back when I originally posted there was some reluctance. That is great you just posted that. Someone here think that they came up with it all first only 4 months ago . They even made the comment that Tony should have mentioned their name when talking about the mod . You should look at your old threads and post one of the original threads for us!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stimpsonjcat 0 Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 My apologies, looks like it was January 05 when I posted the bolt mods and was told I was nuts for making them. I just looked at the pic dates on my server...can't find the original thread. This one is close http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=4979&hl= Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dancapostagno 0 Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 i liked the polished carriers, i had been planning on doing something like that. but when i was doing some research for another project centered around increasing reliability, i came across NP3. i'm sure some of you are probably familiar with it, but for those that aren't, it's essentially a nickel/teflon coating. anyways, aside from the aesthetics, people are having their internals dipped in it because it allegedly makes the surfaces smooth and aids in lubrication or something. there is also the claim regarding one merely needing to clean things coated with it with a rag or something and that it makes the surfaces much more durable. anyways, might this be a good idea for the internals, to aid in the smoothness of their functioning and -dare i say it- improve on the already high reliability qualities of the design? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Capt. Ferguson 0 Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I don't put recoil buffers in any weapon. If it craps out eventually because it's been "battered to death", I'll buy a NEW ONE-how many GI .45's are still in service and never seen a recoil buffer? All I care about is that my gun goes bang when I pull the trigger and repeats as necessary, ANYTHING that has the potential to adversely affect that IS NOT GOING ON MY GUN. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocinante 100 Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 Will definitely be doing some of this. I got a pistol hard chromed and it was noticeably tighter. I took some fine sand paper and some chrome polish to it. The polish has some kind of wax and it really slicked up the action a lot. Thinking about using it on my saiga metal parts too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
748 0 Posted November 18, 2007 Report Share Posted November 18, 2007 A coating of Remington Dry Teflon spary helps every thing move smoother too. It is no surprise to me because I use it on all my guns that have had polish work done to them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lelandeod 179 Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 (edited) Shit, Anytime Mike D. puts a photo in a thread the rest of us instantly go into corporate espionage mode. ...looking for that new accessory soon to be hitting your dealer's shelves. ...the Siaga Ninja approves Edited November 19, 2007 by lelandeod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
E-TAC 47 Posted November 27, 2007 Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 Pic with edge completely removed, must remove bbl first. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tomovich 0 Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 .........must remove bbl first. I've wondered about this for awhile. How is the barrel mounted into the trunion on an S12?? Threaded and pinned, just a slip fit and pinned or a PRESS fit and pinned?? TIA! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 It's a light press fit and pinned. The press is substantially lighter then the press fit on most gas blocks though. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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