Yukon42 0 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Here's a pic of the bolt smoothed and polished, both locked and unlocked. You only need to polish one surface of the actual bolt head, but two surfaces on the rotating locking body. Tony I've seen warnings that the bolt can be ruined by doing this mod incorrectly, but no specifics were mentioned. Has anybody ruined their bolt doing this mod? Any tips on not ruining it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raoul_Duke 113 Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Any tips on not ruining it? Go slow and compare with pictures. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcimhoff 0 Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 You dont have to go crazy polishing the bolt. Just get it scuff up with some 220 grit sandpaper to get a nice sheen on it, then step to 600 grit. I would beware of taking a dremel tool to it since you really dont need to remove that much material; just smooth out the imperfections. My Saiga had some FTF & FTE issues the first time I took it out. After doing the modifications on these pages which included polishing the bolt, the top of the hammer and the frame rails the thing ran like a top. Just dont get carried away and you will be fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 You dont have to go crazy polishing the bolt. That was pretty much my thinking. I wanted to clean it up, but maybe not go as far as I've seen here. I did use a Dremel stone to remove the crazy angles the Russians leave on the bolt. It doesn't seem like a good idea to have those ridges raking across the top round in the mag. The bolt has a smooth contour now and I polished with 600 grit silicon carbide paper. I didn't really remove much material though. Certainly not as much as Tony and Cobra did on their posted examples. I haven't had a chance to do any live testing yet, the gun hand cycles pretty smoothly now though. I was also hoping the loaded mags would go in easier, but they still have some resistance. Has anybody had a significant improvement on rocking in loaded mags by shaving the bolt? Is it possible to get total clearance on the bolt? I'd maybe hit it again with the Dremel if I thought it would make a more noticeable difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I was curious if anyone knows of legal badstuff related to polishing out the numbers stamped on the bolt. Mine runs well, but better is better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Twinsen 86 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I was curious if anyone knows of legal badstuff related to polishing out the numbers stamped on the bolt. Mine runs well, but better is better. Nothing legal that would be a problem, in any state. But if you want your $200 Russian gun made of stamped steel to remain all original... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Delta 5.56 0 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Has anybody had a significant improvement on rocking in loaded mags by shaving the bolt? I'd maybe hit it again with the Dremel if I thought it would make a more noticeable difference. A very significant improvement on mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) You CAN ruin a bolt by doing this mod... I came across a bolt that had only been polished/material removed in the LOCKING position... and ALOT of material was removed.... This left a corner on the front half of the bolt near the canyon by the numbers, when the lugs Unlocked, that would CATCH on the top round.... Also, the locked bolt position meant that unlocking of the lugs caused the flat underside to rotate and PUSH down on the top round... the result was two-fold. ONE: Tons of un-needed resistance on the bolt coming rearward because of literally snagging rounds and slicing off portions of the shell, and TWO: TONS of un-needed resistance to UNLOCK the lugs because of the camming action of the bolt underside pushing the rounds DOWN against the spring... IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS MOD, DO NOT CREATE UNDO SNAG/RESISTANCE POINTS BY TAKING A ROUND BOLT AND MAKING IT FLAT!!!!! It's like taking your ROUND tires and replacing them with SQUARE tires in hopes of going faster.... there is energy lost rotating the locking lugs to the "unlocked" position, it's beneficial to reduce the energy required to make this turn by smoothing the radius... it's NOT beneficial to turn a round surface into a square surface... I've done this mod to all my personal guns, but please be aware that you LOAD the mag when the bolt is closed/locked and the bolt MOVES in the gun when it's in the unlocked/open position... Making the Closed position smooth and relieved, does nothing for cycling, only for loading on a closed bolt... ALSO, the bolt transitions from locked to unlocked RIGHT ON TOP OF THE ROUNDS.... Make the transition from Locked-to-unlocked a smooth radius and you won't rob the bolt carrier from rearward energy which could result in Failures to Extract! Edited June 16, 2009 by SaigaNoobie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunfun 3,931 Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 I was curious if anyone knows of legal badstuff related to polishing out the numbers stamped on the bolt. Mine runs well, but better is better. Nothing legal that would be a problem, in any state. But if you want your $200 Russian gun made of stamped steel to remain all original... $200? maybe 10 years ago-- used. Try 3 times that around here... I want the gun I want. not necessarily the gun that is offered. I don't want to spend my time and money on things that don't help, or can screw up the gun, but I am gonna take it outa that package and shoot it. If something makes it better to my tastes, I will do it cash and time permitting. If you know where I can legally find one for $200, pm me, I will buy at least 2. at $200 I would try to buy 3 more, keep 2 stock and mod the heck out of the others. And pick up more as I find cheap deals. I think the investment will be in owning a gun that has performance that may cease be legally available. They won't care about original half they will want a gun that kicks butt. The purist collectors will want an unsporterized one anyway. Maybe some will want that hollow montecarlo stock in mint condition, but I don't see them as the primary market point for a gun like this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glockmonger 18 Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 When it comes to deforming the shell casing, how does this cut compare to the one below? I tend to do them more simular to like in the pics below and it is night and day with reloads. But I still notice deformating shells. Tony These Bolts and carriers have been reshaped and polished... Here's two next to each other...one modded and one not... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Big_Bayou_Hooter 0 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 What if you use a round brass brush in a dremel tool? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stellar Rigs 0 Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) Edited July 16, 2009 by Stellar Rigs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted July 16, 2009 Report Share Posted July 16, 2009 I know some folks have been able to get replacement bolts, though I have yet to find one available. That would definitely be the cheapest route I would think. Tantal is supposed to have some, but every time I contact them, they're out. I modded my bolt almost as much as you did, I think. It makes loading a mag on a closed bolt easier, but it puts a little downward pressure on the top shell when the bolt is coming back. Not a WHOLE lot of pressure, but a little. I had to round it out after the fact because the front portion of the bolt had a sharp section that dragged across the top round when it unlocked. It's all good now, but I suspect if I had to do it over again, I'd not remove as much material, especially if the LRBHO is available and I wouldn't need to load on a closed bolt. Corbin Between the two Saigas, I swapped bolts, bolt carriers and both guns are about the same. I also looked around for a new bolt (or two) without any luck. I am open to any suggestions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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