Finishing wood furniture part 2-need assistance

[gunrunner123 0]

OK Heres what I was thinking of doing...Please let me know what you think.

1)Sanding clean before starting with Tung OIL

 

2)100% Tung Oil 2 or 3 coatings (maybe more coating air drying inbetween and then buffing)

 

3)After I am happy with the look

 

4)Waxing with Clear Carnuba wax or some other wax.

 

Does this sound like this will work?Or am I leaving out alot of steps....

 

 

Thanks

Ken

[topmaul 42]

Ken

We just put about 4 coats of tong oil on this one

 

[gunrunner123 0]

Ken

We just put about 4 coats of tong oil on this one

 

 

 

Thanks did you put any wax coating? Did you sand it down once you put Tung oil on?

 

I was thinking of a sanding before than tung oil once I am happy with look of the Tung I will use Myland wax and then to finish itoff

I will use Carnuba wax. Did you find with each coat of tung oil that it got alot darker? What kind of wood did you use?I am learning as I go and trying to do this right!

 

Thanks for your help!!!

[topmaul 42]

We just sanded it a bit then oiled it. We have sanded it and re oilied it once last year but it still looks good.

[gunrunner123 0]

We just sanded it a bit then oiled it. We have sanded it and re oilied it once last year but it still looks good.

 

 

Thanks alot looks good.whas it honduran mohoganey?

[sKott 26]

Ok here are the steps I follow when sanding a new stock.

 

1. Using 180 grit paper lightly sand the entire piece until smooth. be very careful around corners so that you do not sand away too much material.

 

2. When you are happy with the results after the 180 grit sanding step up to 240 grit paper. sand the same paying special attention to the corners. When sanding with the 240 grit you will start to see dark areas (figure or grain) in the wood - this is good. sand and every now and then wipe off the excess dust with a towel.

 

3. After you are happy with the 240 grit results, get a wet rag and wipe down the stock. You do not want it dripping wet but coated with water. let it completely dry. this raises the "hairs" in the wood. when dry the stock will have a "fuzzy" feel to it.

 

4. Again with the 240 grit paper sand the stock until the "hairs" are gone. the stock should now be smooth. Wipe off excess dust with a towel.

 

5. Break out the 0000 Steel Wool. (Use the stuff that is at the hardware store next to the sand paper - not an SOS pad from the kitchen). press hard and "buff" the stock to a extra smooth polish.

 

6. Using a Tack Cloth lightly wipe off the stock to remove any remaining dust - A word of caution here - the Tack Cloth contains wax it you press too hard the wax will transfer from the cloth to the wood (You do NOT want this) the idea it to lightly drag the cloth over the stock so the dust sticks to the wax on the cloth.

you can also use an air compressor and nozzle to blow off the dust - just make sure your compressor doesn't have any collected water in it.

 

7 If you want to use a stain now is the time to use it. follow the directions on the can. I would recommend a dye or oil stain - not a 2 in one or gel-stain. let dry before moving to the oil.

 

8 On my stocks I use Formby's Hi-Gloss Tung oil. They do make a semi gloss - Your choice. using an applicator pad apply the 1st coat of tung oil. - rub it into the wood much as you would wax a car - only smaller circles. you want to give it a good coat but not dripping. Let it dry 24 hr before the second coat.

then give it a 3rd and a 4th. - be sure to let it dry between coats. some people lightly buff with steel wool between coats. (I have tried it both ways and can honestly say I could see not difference - plus it gives more opportunity for trash to end up in the work.)

 

9. when it is finished and everything is completely dry... If the stock is "Too Glossy" for your taste you can lightly rub the stock with the steel wool to "Matte" the finish. otherwise reassemble.

 

Hope this helps

 

sKott

[gunrunner123 0]

I think I got enough info now-THANKS TO EVERYONE

I will post the finished product soon.

And I promise NO more questions(grin)

 

 

 

Ok here are the steps I follow when sanding a new stock.

 

1. Using 180 grit paper lightly sand the entire piece until smooth. be very careful around corners so that you do not sand away too much material.

 

2. When you are happy with the results after the 180 grit sanding step up to 240 grit paper. sand the same paying special attention to the corners. When sanding with the 240 grit you will start to see dark areas (figure or grain) in the wood - this is good. sand and every now and then wipe off the excess dust with a towel.

 

3. After you are happy with the 240 grit results, get a wet rag and wipe down the stock. You do not want it dripping wet but coated with water. let it completely dry. this raises the "hairs" in the wood. when dry the stock will have a "fuzzy" feel to it.

 

4. Again with the 240 grit paper sand the stock until the "hairs" are gone. the stock should now be smooth. Wipe off excess dust with a towel.

 

5. Break out the 0000 Steel Wool. (Use the stuff that is at the hardware store next to the sand paper - not an SOS pad from the kitchen). press hard and "buff" the stock to a extra smooth polish.

 

6. Using a Tack Cloth lightly wipe off the stock to remove any remaining dust - A word of caution here - the Tack Cloth contains wax it you press too hard the wax will transfer from the cloth to the wood (You do NOT want this) the idea it to lightly drag the cloth over the stock so the dust sticks to the wax on the cloth.

you can also use an air compressor and nozzle to blow off the dust - just make sure your compressor doesn't have any collected water in it.

 

7 If you want to use a stain now is the time to use it. follow the directions on the can. I would recommend a dye or oil stain - not a 2 in one or gel-stain. let dry before moving to the oil.

 

8 On my stocks I use Formby's Hi-Gloss Tung oil. They do make a semi gloss - Your choice. using an applicator pad apply the 1st coat of tung oil. - rub it into the wood much as you would wax a car - only smaller circles. you want to give it a good coat but not dripping. Let it dry 24 hr before the second coat.

then give it a 3rd and a 4th. - be sure to let it dry between coats. some people lightly buff with steel wool between coats. (I have tried it both ways and can honestly say I could see not difference - plus it gives more opportunity for trash to end up in the work.)

 

9. when it is finished and everything is completely dry... If the stock is "Too Glossy" for your taste you can lightly rub the stock with the steel wool to "Matte" the finish. otherwise reassemble.

 

Hope this helps

 

sKott

[Bvamp 604]

steel wool +1000% on that one.

 

also, a difficult to apply technique (but a real good one), is what wood turners use to faux polish projects....an identical species of wood chunk, held WITH THE GRAIN of the chunk, rubbed on the project, will do a wonderful job of tightening up the grain before applying any finish products.

 

french wax is another option for finishes that appear to not be stained, look more like natural wood, but appear aged. french wax is a tricky thing to make if you dont know what you are doing, but its basically a shellac, not a wax, that you mix by hand with other products. you should find how to mix and apply it readily on a google search, if you care to look into that route. this type of finish will dissolve with alcohol however, and some gun cleaning products, so be sure you want to use it first (it really is a beautiful finish when done right), and then care for your wood project must be done with care. I have used this type of finish several times while repairing old hand carved/hand milled bannisters in old victorian homes up north. sometimes it is the only way to get the new wood and work to match the old. it really is a spectacular finish on rare woods with interesting grains in them, as well as many of the hardwoods out there.