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Reloading for 7.62 x 39


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Ok first off I would like to state that I'm reloading for a YUGO SKS however these loads should work for the Saiga application also.

 

123 Gr. Soft Points

I spent about a day working on a load for my YUGO SKS. Using Winchester cases,trimmed to length with the Lee case length guage & cutter, CCI #34 Mil-Spec primers which are actually cheaper than standard LR primers, AA1680 powder preferred but Reloader #7 works just as well with the 123 Gr. .310 & 150 Gr. .311 bullets. The Hornady 123Gr. SP seated & crimped right on the cannalure which happens to be right at the OAL of 2.20. There is nothing special about this load,It just simply shoots. I think most SKS's in good working order and a good bore would do this with the correct load work up. The Mil-Surplus ammo just doesn't bring out the best in these rifles.

 

Components Used

I bought my supplies from these suppliers mainly the powder & primers because my local shop doesn't carry Accurate powders, but you may be able to purchase them at your local reloading supplier and save yourself the $20 Hazmat fees

 

Test Targets

Russian Ammo

GoldenTiger.jpg

BrownBear.jpg

My Reloads

MyReload.jpg

 

Dies Lee Pacesetter 3 die set w/factory crimp die. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...&t=11082005

 

Brass Winchester

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...&t=11082005

 

Primers CCI #34 Mil Spec 7.62 mm bought in 1K lots

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/index.html

 

Powder Accurate 1680 or Reloader #7

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/index.html

 

Bullet Hornady 123 Gr. SP

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/...&t=11082005

 

Small diameter front sight post click on the accessories tab on the left side of web page.

http://www.tech-sights.com/

 

150 Gr. Soft Points

SKS150Gr.A.jpg

Ok got out this morning and did a little testing with my 150 Gr. SP loads. I feel like this load will shoot allot better I'm using iron sights and my eye sight of late isn't what it used to be definitely need a new pair of glasses for my shooting to improve . My sights are set 1" high at 50 Yds. The load functioned perfectly ejecting the spend brass about 15 ft. from my table. I had one slight flyer on each group or they would have been a bit tighter,but I'm happy with the results for a short range heavy bullet load. Max load in the LEE manual is 24.8 Gr. of Reloader #7 My load was 24.0 Grs. even. I saw no pressure signs on the primer with either combination used,according to the load data the MV is a little over 2100 fps. I used the load data from the newest LEE reloading manual. The rounds seem to equal the feel of Golden Tiger they definitely have a little punch to them. These 150 Gr. SP loads are my first test runs I still have a little tweaking to do yet. The Speer bullet seem to have the advantage.

 

 

Speer 150 Gr. .311 FB SP The black squares are 1/2"

scan1-2.jpg

 

If there is any other info I can pass along or something I have left out that might be of help I haven't thought about, please post a question. I have linked to two PDF files with the ballistics date I printed out for the Hornady 123 Gr. & Speer 150 Gr. SP loads.

 

123 Gr. SP

http://www.mediafire.com/?aaj02juxzth

 

150 Gr. SP

http://www.mediafire.com/?4jjevuoyyc3

 

I use the TechSight front post on my YUGO only. The rear sight on my YUGO works just fine with the smaller dia. pin its about 1/2 the size of the original factory pin. You will need to spread the bottom of the new pin slightly so you get a good tight fit I also put a drop of blue thread locker on mine.

 

The rounds are crimped but its hard to tell from the pic I used the LEE factory crimp die that came with my die set. The .310 dia 123 Gr.bullet crimp shows up more because of the cannelure, however the .311 dia 150 Gr. Speer bullet does not have a cannelure and is crimped on the same setting but has the extra 0.001 to help hold it in place. The LEE factory crimp die will not crush the case like the regular roll crimp will if you apply to much crimp, it just compresses the neck at the point of contact and makes it own cannelure on bullets that do not have one.

test012A.jpg

 

I have been asked why I shot the test at 50 yds. instead of the standard 100 I shot it in my back yard all my shooting fields around me were full of corn at the time and it's about an hour and a half to the closest public range. Also my eye sight has gotten worse over the past six months time for glasses upgrade. I can't really see a small bullseye at 100 Yds. right now very clearly and keep a good focus point,thats about the size of it. I plan on redoing the test at 100,200 and maybe out to 300 Yds. when I get my eyes fixed up.

 

My 1970 YUGO

test016.jpg

YUGO.jpg

Edited by res45
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Excellent post! Thank you.

 

While it's cheaper and easier to buy ammo for the x39 right now than to reload it I have considered it just for the improved accuracy. Maybe have that special stash for competitions or SHTF.

 

How long have you been reloading?

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Excellent post! Thank you.

 

While it's cheaper and easier to buy ammo for the x39 right now than to reload it I have considered it just for the improved accuracy. Maybe have that special stash for competitions or SHTF.

 

How long have you been reloading?

 

About 30 Yrs. I still use my original single stage Lyman press and scales to load my ammo I have a Lyman trimmer but do most of my trimming now days with Lee tools. Priming is done wit h Lee Autoprimer tool for about every caliber I load on a regular basic or I use the press for others I don't load in volume. All of my equipment is just plain basic reloading equipment nothing fancy. I use Lee Dies for the 7.62 x 39mm & 243 Win. its the first Lee Dies I have ever bought,.mostly because of economic reasons. I also have Lyman and RCBS reloading dies for various other calibers .357,30-30,300 Savage,22 Hornet,7.62 x 54r. and a few others I do for my brother. On the 54r I pull down the Bulgarian Mil-Surplus ammo trim the cases to length with my Lyman trimmer,resize the necks,readjust the powder charge down a few grains and reseat the original FMJ bullets or replace them with a Speer 150 Gr. .311 SP or Hornady 174 Gr. .312 RN bullets for hunting rounds. I just got tired of shooting the surplus ammo and hitting nothing consistently now I can shoot about a 2"group with the reloaded ammo using the original bullet or the replacement SP bullets. I can knock out about 50 Rds. in a couple hours. I have done about 300 Rds now with excellent results and no more cratered primer or beat up shoulder to boot.

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'res45'

 

One thing that I always checked after reloading some ammo was to try each round in a go/no-go gauge. I was reloading 9mm and it wasn't hard to find a gauge.

 

When I was loading 7.62x25 I used to drop every round I reloaded into an extra barrel, just to be sure they would chamber alright.

 

How do you check your 7.62x39 rounds?

 

louielouie

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'res45'

 

One thing that I always checked after reloading some ammo was to try each round in a go/no-go gauge. I was reloading 9mm and it wasn't hard to find a gauge.

 

When I was loading 7.62x25 I used to drop every round I reloaded into an extra barrel, just to be sure they would chamber alright.

 

How do you check your 7.62x39 rounds?

 

louielouie

I don't check each round except on final inspection.I have a set procedure for reloading I have 2 container that I move each case between on each process full length resize,trim to proper length and clean primer pocket,priming,hand weight each charge and place in loading block, seat the bullet to correct OAL and the final stage crimp and wipe down and place in box. I have loaded this way for almost 30 years with not a single miss fire, or round that failed to chamber smoothly and completely. Since all my weapons are semi auto or lever action like my Savage 99 I always full length resize. The only exception to that is the 54r Mil-Surplus ammo that I neck size only because I have to replace the bullet after i drop the powder charge.

 

Berdan primer of original Mil-surplus ammo

Ammo007.jpg

Berdan primer after powder charge drop and bullet reseat

Ammo008.jpg

Edited by res45
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'res45'

 

One thing that I always checked after reloading some ammo was to try each round in a go/no-go gauge. I was reloading 9mm and it wasn't hard to find a gauge.

 

When I was loading 7.62x25 I used to drop every round I reloaded into an extra barrel, just to be sure they would chamber alright.

 

How do you check your 7.62x39 rounds?

 

louielouie

I don't check each round except on final inspection.I have a set procedure for reloading I have 2 container that I move each case between on each process full length resize,trim to proper length and clean primer pocket,priming,hand weight each charge and place in loading block, seat the bullet to correct OAL and the final stage crimp and wipe down and place in box. I have loaded this way for almost 30 years with not a single miss fire, or round that failed to chamber smoothly and completely. Since all my weapons are semi auto or lever action like my Savage 99 I always full length resize. The only exception to that is the 54r Mil-Surplus ammo that I neck size only because I have to replace the bullet after i drop the powder charge.

 

Berdan primer of original Mil-surplus ammo

Ammo007.jpg

Berdan primer after powder charge drop and bullet reseat

Ammo008.jpg

 

Thank you for the great write up,

louielouie

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