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Teach me about Mercury Tubes

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All I know about Mercury tubes is what I've read, thought this place might be good for practical information. The plan in mind is to mount a Mercury tube inside the hollow tube of an AR stock adapter on a Saiga 12. Questions are-1)is a Mercury tube effective when mounted in the stock? 2) How do you know what weight to use to be effective? In any event, the added weight would be a welcome addition to the aluminum tube and plastic AR stock.

Working area of tube I.D. is aprox. 5 1/4"L x 7/8" in diameter.

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You'll want a tube of mercury that is at least half full of mercury, so it has room to slosh back and forth.

 

Not sure what sources exist for ready made tubes of mercury, but you might look into the process of making them with steel or lead water pipe. Get the pipe where the end caps external diameter are really close to the internal diameter of the buffer tube, so that all you'd have to do is wrap the caps with duct tape for a snug fit.

 

You'll also want to make sure that your tube of mercury is solidly mounted inside the buffer tube (so it doesnt move back and forth).

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All I know about Mercury tubes is what I've read, thought this place might be good for practical information. The plan in mind is to mount a Mercury tube inside the hollow tube of an AR stock adapter on a Saiga 12. Questions are-1)is a Mercury tube effective when mounted in the stock? 2) How do you know what weight to use to be effective? In any event, the added weight would be a welcome addition to the aluminum tube and plastic AR stock.

Working area of tube I.D. is aprox. 5 1/4"L x 7/8" in diameter.

You can find a 16oz 5" x .78" mercury tube here http://www.mercuryrecoil.com/suppressors/index.htm

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The main benefit to using a mercury recoil comp is due to its weight. You can achieve much the same effect with lead shot. A really soft recoil pad like a Pachmayer Decelerator will help tremedously. I have one on my 50BMG and I never get bruised.

 

If you DO go the mercury route, work with good ventilation arount the mercury, wear vinyl gloves when handling it, and EPOXY those end caps on. You don't want that crap entering your system, and it can travel through the skin. The damage from exposure is cumulative. MUCH more toxic and easier to absorb than lead in solid form.

Edited by patriot

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Thanks for the info so far. I'm really wanting to know how to calculate how much weight it takes to be effective at all on a 12ga when mounted in the butt stock. It's like the last step of several to in an overall package to reduce recoil/lift. Another interesting thing that Jamshot had posted earlier was that weight eats recoil,and that weight in the back of the gun helps establish ballance in the front heavy S12, making one handed mag changes easier. Although the void in the tube is not huge, it might make a good home for a compensator making the benefit three fold.

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Fill the tube with shot and try that. It's cheap, and it'll give you a good idea of what works.

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Want noise? Shoot a Barrett with a good cheek weld. That spring banging around makes a hell of a racket when the sound conducts through your cheekbone!

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Are we talking about Mercury as in Hg? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_(element) if so that stuff is very dangerous I would not want to fool around with it look at Minamoto Bay Japan, or the term mad as a hatter it stems from the horrible effects of Mercury on the human body. I had a almost a quart of Mercury we drained out of 3 manomators it weighted a lot I think it was almost 50 pounds.

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Brother, mercury is the way to go, it will move back equally on recoil.

 

The tubes are made like this, spring to act as a shock absorber, a piston and O rings and of course the mercury

you cut a small piston, groove it to take 2 O rings, the O rings is to seal the piston against the wall of the tube

and seal the mercury from going over the piston. Yes the piston have to be made costume to the tube you

are going to use, the piston gets groove for the O rings, 1, 2 ,3 grooves all depends how many O rings

you are going to use on the piston, 2 are the best one on the front and one on the back to guide the piston

equally on the tube as it travels back as it gets push by the mercury, you will have to experiment

with size of spring and and quantity of mercury to use .

 

The piston can be done out of aluminum, and different springs can be found at hardware store.

 

Mercury been a Heavy liquid metal will move equally on the tube as the gun recoils, the spring with the piston

will absorb the shock wave of the gun, but remember it have to be install on buttstock

and mercury will expand with heat. Do not use any were near heat transfer will touch the tube at all.

 

Like they post before, rubber gloves to handle it, and a plastic or glass container to store it and make super sure

non of your kids or pets will get near it. Any stuff use to handle it, like spoons and containers have to be dispose

accordingly the stuff is not a joke, you can get mercury on quantities on any AC supply.

 

Oh forgot U can use a non petroleum base lubricant on the O rings to help the piston move easier and still

seal the mercury. Oh forgot too, the piston about one inch long the minimal, like that it will ride along the

tube nice and easy with out getting stock on the tube.

 

Or get one all ready made, makes life easier but the only problems with that, is that some times

you dont get the right one for the recoil of your gun, any way like on a tube butt stock

to install one all ready made, cover the body of the mercury recoil on grease, install it

were you want it, fill around with non expandable spray foam, and let it sit, the grease

is use like that the foam dont stick to the body of the mercury recoil reducer

when the foam sets, and you can take it out if you want.

 

 

 

 

 

 

But what do I know. 2 cents of non sense.

Edited by vjor

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Vjor, that's a pretty good trick for mounting. I thought about low density expanding foam for the mounting, but greasing the thing down is a good idea to help with removal. I found a source for C&H

tubes that's about 30% less in price than any others. As for weight choice, it looks like it's still a crap shoot at this point. I emailed a few manufacturers to get their response, we'll see what they can add. If nothing solid comes up, I'll use the shot in the tube method and check for ballance in an empty gun vs performance and see if I can get a reference point.

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Thank man, hey brother, I was thinking( damn that new stuff for me) well, you going to use the Ar

tube for the shotgun, well try this, one piece led and recoil spring on the tube, I mean a light spring

and melt led to a little bet less than the diameter of the tube, the led will act as a complete

shock absorbent on a light spring on that tube that you have. I will do this, round rubber on the end of the tube

to act as a buffer, led piece to almost same diameter of the tube, really super light spring.

 

Why the led same diameter of the tube, well it will travel equal better than shot on the tube

as recoil hit it. the light spring because it will let the led move back but will hit the led

back to the rubber counter acting the recoil on the gun, if to heavy spring is use, the led may don't move

at all and don't counter act the recoil at all, and the rubber like that you don't have the hammering of the led on

the back of the tube, a lot less money than a mercury tube, try that it will don't hurt. The spring

have to be the length of the tube to push the led all the time against the back of the tube but light, really light

really super light spring have to be use. Like that the spring can compress and help the led counter act the

recoil.

 

You are going to try few springs and led sizes. That's why they use mercury, because been liquid

it will move to mater how small the recoil of the gun and move even because of the liquid form.

 

And good luck brother.

Edited by vjor

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1)is a Mercury tube effective when mounted in the stock?

 

2) How do you know what weight to use to be effective?

 

Working area of tube I.D. is aprox. 5 1/4"L x 7/8" in diameter.

#1 That is how they started, in stocks of trap guns. They do wonders for a gun but add weight. Also great in the stocks of home defense guns like an 870. Stuffing them out front was for the semi autio shooters.

 

#2 use as much weight as you can fit or want to heft around.

 

#3 look here http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/cat...=10&si=True

 

 

A couple years ago when one of the Cav Arms guys started talking about making his stock adapter my question was did anyone consider putting a recoil reducer in the stock. Never heard back on that. I just went out and bought a Knoxx folder instead for a rifled slug gun of mine (deer gun). I have heard talk of some doing it since.

 

But, once I add a Saiga 12 to my arsenal, I will likely go the distance and try this. There is no reason for you to not try it if you can find one that fits. It is a simple add on, put tube in stock and shoot. Look at Benelli Nova shotguns, come with a space already molded in the stock for add on mercury tube. No need to do calculations, more is better. Less than 11ozs, why bother.

 

Consider a competive trap shooter. Long weekends, hundreds of rounds. They use these for a reason. Granted, their guns are a lot lighter to start with but the additional 11 to 16ozs pays off. 2 kinds of shotguns, carried a lot and shot a little = hunting/field gun light weight is important but you eat more recoil. Other is shot a lot and carried a little = competiton guns. You want to reduce recoil as much as possible to reduce fatigue (and increase enjoyment). You are not setting up your Saiga to be a field gun and if you do carry it all day, sling it.

 

I am just curious if it wil affect the functioning of the gun.

Edited by Zoub

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Should be a honeymoon fit, but I'm going to try the 7/8"x5" C&H. If anyone is interested, I found the best price at this link-

http://www.mpcsports.com/index.asp?PageAct...mp;Category=245

 

Also, I'm good in terms of compliance parts but I wonder how ATF would look at the Magpul CTR stock (USA) mounted on the CAA (Israel)

adapter tube? The parts list calls out STOCK, but in this application the tube looks like a grey area.

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Should be a honeymoon fit, but I'm going to try the 7/8"x5" C&H. If anyone is interested, I found the best price at this link-

http://www.mpcsports.com/index.asp?PageAct...mp;Category=245

 

Also, I'm good in terms of compliance parts but I wonder how ATF would look at the Magpul CTR stock (USA) mounted on the CAA (Israel)

adapter tube? The parts list calls out STOCK, but in this application the tube looks like a grey area.

They'll probably pull the same rules as the handguards "both parts must be US made".

 

When you say "adaptor", do you mean the piece that fits into the AK receiver, and allows you to screw the CTR into it?

 

The adaptor isn't a buttstock.

 

I'm not really sure what terms you are using. "Adapter tube" is the phrase that is confusing. Got pix?

Edited by nalioth

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It's the first picture in the thread. This one is sold by CAA is an aluminum buffer tube (commercial dia) made specificly to fit AK receivers. I plan on using a Magpul CTR stock (commercial dia) on it, and stuffing it with the Mercury tube.

 

EDIT- I didn't think about this before, but an ACE ARFX stock would probably be a good choice if I knew the upper tube dia and length, and would certainly be compliant and have the ability to fold and accept different recoil pads (;

Edited by 6500rpm

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Thanks a LOT 6500rpm.... with all this discussion concerning mercury tubes, you've now convinced me to give that "mod" a shot as well in my next Tromix S-12 build. :ded:

 

Since I already own one of Tony's SPAS-15 folding stocks (reference attached images), I'm betting that IF I can figure out some way to remove the rear rubber butt pad from the stock without totally fucking it up, I will be golden. The SPAS stock feels hollow (via tapping it firmly.... but I could be wrong; won't know until I remove the rubber butt pad and start drilling), and due to its overall light weight (in comparison to the majority of other stock options available for an S-12) seems to me to be an ideal candidate to have one of those C&H Mercury Recoil Suppressors from MPC Sports inserted into it.

 

Ummmm.... if anyone could suggest to me the best way to remove this rubber butt pad from this SPAS-15 stock, I would be hugely indebted to you.

 

~Gary

 

P.S. -- 6500rpm, I'm not hi-jacking your thread.... I'm just totally agreeing with you and I'm completely "on board" to do this as well (the mercury tube thing with my S-12).

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post-4853-1200807859_thumb.jpg

Edited by Gary

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If it isnt GLUED on... Check for some VERY FINE vertical "cracks" in the buttpad, this is where the underlying attachment screws will be located, as in most wooden stocked rifle buttpads.

 

If you can find these little slits, spread them apart and see what kind of screw is underneath and pop in a screwdriver and pop it off.

 

If its glued on... well that would be a little more of a challenge, to remove, but you could always buy an aftermarket buttpad of your choice, and reglue it on after your mods are made to the stock. That too might even be a better route as you could have any buttpad available to you, for installation, of your choice! :up:

 

:smoke:

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If it is glued, I've had good luck with items like Galil stock tubes by soaking them in just short of boiling hot water for a few minutes to soften and loosen things up. Might take a few dunks, working from the edges-in. That's a fairly hard to come by stock, so talk with Tony or someone first-at this point it's only an assumption on my part that the Mercury tube mods even worth doing, just looking at it as part of an overall package of things to try.

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IndyArms -- After thoroughly pressing and feeling along the border and seams of the rubber butt pad, I don't feel anything that could be construed as hardware or metal screws residing underneath. IMHO the butt pad is somehow glued on. Nonthethess, I will keep a sharp eye on possible hiding hardware while I proceed to remove the butt pad.

 

6500rpm -- Your idea of using scolding hot water is perfect! At least, it seems like a perfect idea.... I'll know more once I get to removing the rubber pad. Previous to hearing your idea, I was contemplating attacking the seam of the rubber pad with an x-acto knife, and then forcing some sort of glue dissolver into the seam. A friggen high-pressure air hose would be ideal for forcing the rubber off the polymer stock.... but alas, I don't have anything remotely that powerful.

 

I honestly think using a mecury recoil suppressor tube inside this polymer stock would be ideal. If nothing else, the weight of the mecury tube would help balance the overall S-12 more proportionally, muzzle to butt stock. Just my opinion.

 

Thank you guys!!! I'll keep you posted on how this all unfolds for me.

Edited by Gary

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Gary,

The pad on the TROMIX SPAS-15 stock makes shooting an S-12 pretty soft, as is........... I'd get your S-12, shoot it to assess your perceptive level of recoil, and then work further if necessary............

 

The Lage stock on Tony's conversions can be a little tough, if you forget that one time to pull it in adequately.......and I have an S06 that I've added a pad to the Lage stock (T6, stretched over the butt), that helps..........but on my 10" SBS, the SPAS-15 softens it beautifully, and I've felt no need to go any further...........

 

YMMV........... IMO, try it first and go from there.......

Edited by Jeaux E

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Gary,

The pad on the TROMIX SPAS-15 stock makes shooting an S-12 pretty soft, as is........... I'd get your S-12, shoot it to assess your perceptive level of recoil, and then work further if necessary............

 

The Lage stock on Tony's conversions can be a little tough, if you forget that one time to pull it in adequately.......and I have an S06 that I've added a pad to the Lage stock (T6, stretched over the butt), that helps..........but on my 10" SBS, the SPAS-15 softens it beautifully, and I've felt no need to go any further...........

 

YMMV........... IMO, try it first and go from there.......

Joe, as always, I completely appreciate your advice... (even if you are damned-near twice my age :haha:).

 

If you haven't figured my "valley beotch" ways out as of yet (via my Tromix S-20 build), you likely never will my man. I like to strive to go above and beyond what perhaps the majority of folks would do with their boom-sticks, okay? I'm simply kinda funny that way. :rolleyes:

 

I have absolutely no doubt the SPAS-15's rubber butt plate works wonders toward absorbing the S-12's recoil. I just simply believe by putting a friggen mercury tube inside the already rather light stock, the recoil reduction performance will be even moreso improved overall. Now wouldn't you?

 

For me, I typically don't settle on the notion: "If it ain't broke, don't try and fix it." I prefer to look at things the way they are.... and imagine how they might become even better.

 

Comprende Amigo? :devil:

 

Oh by the way, as I previously mentioned, I give 6500rpm all the credit for this idea. (Even though, truth be told, many months ago I book-marked on my computer that C&H Mercury Recoil Suppressors website, for future reference and possible use.)

Edited by Gary

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Gary,

You younger guys may not get this reference, but:

 

Itcho thang.........do what ya wanna do....... (Isley Brothers)

 

Go for it, Gary !!!

........but, as you say, it's a light stock.............punching a hole for a tube may compromise the structural integrity, and then you'll have a very expensive paperweight. Tony would probably be the one to direct the question to !!

 

Oh, I've got your VB leanings down.......... !! I may be old, sport, but I'm not slow.................... :haha:

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Joe, first and foremost, you have to know that I'm just mess'n with you regarding the "twice my age" remark. Christ, in two years time I will have reached half a century myself. Generally, I only smart-mouth folks on the forum that I really like. Go figure? Just ask Juggernaut. It must stem from my poor upbringing.... :lolol:

 

Although Tony may very well be the best person to field these sort of questions, sticking a mercury tube up the keester in one of his SPAS-15 stocks isn't something I'm sure he really wants to chat about. Just MHO.

 

Due to the huge selection of weights, sizes; lengths & diameters of the mecury tubes, I still standby my original notion that the SPAS-15 stock would be an ideal application for one of these mercury recoil suppressor tubes. With that being the case (and my opinion), I am much, MUCH less worried about making a paper weight out of the stock via a poor drill job, than I am about totally screwing up the rubber butt pad by whatever removal process I decide to go with.

 

Oh yea.... regarding the stocks 'structural integrity': Dude, I'm NOT going to be butt-stroking anyone with the cott'n pick'n thing, so I really don't see what you're driving at by that remark?

 

:haha: .... :haha: .... :haha: ......... :rolleyes:

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Joe, first and foremost, you have to know that I'm just mess'n with you regarding the "twice my age" remark. Christ, in two years time I will have reached half a century myself. Generally, I only smart-mouth folks on the forum that I really like. Go figure? Just ask Juggernaut. It must stem from my poor upbringing.... :lolol:

 

 

If Gary picks on ya, it just means he's totally gay for ya..... :haha:

it's all good......

 

(Sorry Gary! :unsure: )

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Should be a honeymoon fit, but I'm going to try the 7/8"x5" C&H. If anyone is interested, I found the best price at this link-

http://www.mpcsports.com/index.asp?PageAct...mp;Category=245

 

Also, I'm good in terms of compliance parts but I wonder how ATF would look at the Magpul CTR stock (USA) mounted on the CAA (Israel)

adapter tube? The parts list calls out STOCK, but in this application the tube looks like a grey area.

A full 16ozs, I like it. Excellent choice. I am sure we can give you all kinds of free advice on how to make it fit but lets be positive and assume the best here. This will be a good mod.

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All I know about Mercury tubes is what I've read, thought this place might be good for practical information. The plan in mind is to mount a Mercury tube inside the hollow tube of an AR stock adapter on a Saiga 12. Questions are-1)is a Mercury tube effective when mounted in the stock? 2) How do you know what weight to use to be effective? In any event, the added weight would be a welcome addition to the aluminum tube and plastic AR stock.

Working area of tube I.D. is aprox. 5 1/4"L x 7/8" in diameter.

Late reply...I don't make it around the forum enough.

 

I stuffed the 11oz 4"x7/8" into my 20ga and loved it! So then I put one in my S12 too. It does reduce recoil some without the annoying "SPROING" noise of mechanical buffers, but it's not night/day difference in recoil. The main is the improved the weight balance for what starts as a very front heavy gun. However, it is a bitch to make fit, so prepare to spend some time filing out the diameter of your stock hole and pounding the recoil reducer in. Unfortunately, if you pound fairly far but your ID isn't uniform deeper in, you'll have a helluva time getting it back out. So go slowly and check it bit by bit to be sure it's moving deeper while staying snug.

 

As everyone else warned, be careful of how much force you apply to convince it to fit in there--if you break open a tube, you won't be a happy camper. As over-reactive as it sounds, call a Hazmat crew and get it cleaned up right. However, the mercury is encased in solid steel rebar and can take a pounding. I beat the hell out of mine, and though I dented it around the top, I didn't do any damage.

 

Two tricks I learned the hard way: (1) throw your stock in the oven for a bit at 175degrees. It won't be enough to hurt it, but it can move the plastic molecules slightly further apart to make it easier and improve snugness when it cools to room temp; (2) lube your recoil tube up. Also, check the depth of your stock...I think on the Tapco AR stocks it's about 4.5" deep, so if you go with a 5" tube it may stick out when you're at the shortest stock position and that will HURT! But from the picture, your stock adapter looks slightly deeper than the AR, so you may be good to go.

Edited by AegisDei

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