fnfal89 0 Posted January 25, 2008 Report Share Posted January 25, 2008 what can i do to protect the paint on my gun? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocinante 100 Posted January 26, 2008 Report Share Posted January 26, 2008 put a better paint on it. I just used duplicolor 500 degree engine enamel. Shamefully cheap but I aint the only one. Better than what came on the gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pointer 21 Posted January 26, 2008 Report Share Posted January 26, 2008 put a better paint on it. I just used duplicolor 500 degree engine enamel. Shamefully cheap but I aint the only one. Better than what came on the gun. Yep,low gloss...bake in oven for 1 1/2 hrs @300 degrees. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lammy 1 Posted January 26, 2008 Report Share Posted January 26, 2008 Funny, I just pulled a few parts out of the toaster oven.... Cooling next to me right now. I use Rustoleum textured paint as it matches Bulgarian paint very well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
flypenfly 0 Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Anyone think about sending it off to a place like CCR Refinishing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
caughtlikefire 0 Posted February 5, 2008 Report Share Posted February 5, 2008 Anyone think about sending it off to a place like CCR Refinishing? I'm thinking about just sucking it up and paying for a refinish like CCR or Robar. If I pay big bucks, I want a self-lubricating finish on all the internals though. I emailed CCR and asked about whether Cera-Hide was thin enough to be applied to internals like Robar's NP3 and I never got a response back. I would think NP3 on the bolt, carrier, and the receiver rails would be beneficial since it's self-lubricating. maybe I'll do up a Marine Magnum style Saiga with a satin Nickel finish inside and out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vinny_land 0 Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 how do you go about doing this? im guessing i need to strip it or just tape off anything i dont want to get paint because when i received my saiga the rifle had some very minor handling marks on the receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hkmp53lover@msn.com 0 Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 Ever think of having it Duracoated? The Digiflage patters I have seen are phenomenal! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vujade 0 Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 lammy... how did the rustoleom work for you? i painted a few mags and while it looks nice.. it "bleeds" it's got this powdery residue that just keeps coming off. i painted then baked. (300 degrees. an hour) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocinante 100 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 I initially used rustoleum 1200 degree paint and it SUCKED. It was like a smeary black shoe polish that always bled. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 I initially used rustoleum 1200 degree paint and it SUCKED. It was like a smeary black shoe polish that always bled. I thought that this was the effect that you were looking for! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 (edited) If you guys want a good finish and want to send it to a finisher, try E-TAC, he is using cerakote, give the man a Pm or call that stuff is good, I am in transition from duracoat to cerakote my self. Edited February 17, 2008 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vultite 57 Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 whats the difference between cera and dura? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
termite 463 Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 I didn't know that rustoleum made a "bakeable' paint. I used the Baking Lacquer from Brownells on my barrel extension for my V53 pistol to bring it out to 16.5", legal length to add a stock. I just followed directions, baked it in the wifes oven, and PLEASE don't do it before dinner as I did, and all was fine. But also remember to spray this stuff OUTSIDE, that is unless you are a huffer, because even while baking, it gives off one heck off a smell,not to mention makes dinner taste like crap, and wife VERY VERY pissed off, so the following Friday night cost me 2 South African lobster tails and steak from livelob.com. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vultite 57 Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 ouch =O Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vujade 0 Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 has anyone tried the paint folks use for engines or brakes? i'm wondering...if it's strong enough to hold at that temp... i wonder how they fair on a rifle or magazine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vinny_land 0 Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 has anyone tried the paint folks use for engines or brakes? i'm wondering...if it's strong enough to hold at that temp... i wonder how they fair on a rifle or magazine. I agree....just grab a bottle of engine enamel at Autozone and see what happens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waltham_41 52 Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 I use Dupli color ceramic 500 degree semi gloss black engine paint for touch up. It dries fast and is a great match for the original color Quote Link to post Share on other sites
22_Shooter 1,560 Posted February 22, 2008 Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 I use Dupli color ceramic 500 degree semi gloss black engine paint for touch up. It dries fast and is a great match for the original color Got some pics of the underside where you painted? I'm still on the fence on what to use to refinish the underside of mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted February 22, 2008 Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 whats the difference between cera and dura? Sorry bro I don't come here often, cerakote is harder than duracote, like ceramic paint and for one you can use one of the cerakotes to air dry but takes time but when is fully cure is hard as hell, my problem is that after continuous use on brakes the duracote gets blasted and no protection to the brake from erosion that's why I am looking into cerakote for a full finish, but damn I have a shit load of duracote that I have to finish before I jump into something else, I was even trowing some of the hardener away, it dry on me, that's something I hate about duracote is if you don't use the hardener it dries up after open and some times dries up even if you dont open it. One good thing about duracote is the colors to choose from is the largest of all finishes I have seen. Plus there templates are the best around but not cheap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
worm1595 0 Posted March 15, 2008 Report Share Posted March 15, 2008 I have used Brownell's Alumahide II with great results. It holds up much better than the Rustoleum, Duplicolor & Krylon paint finishes . It is an epoxy spray that when applied correctly and fully cures, is pretty damn durable (chemical resistant also) and looks really good. I've used it on Aluminium, steel, woods & plastics with wonderful results. * Completely degrease and clean piece to be finished (if metal) * Rough the surface with a green Scotchbrite scrubbing pad. * Blow off dust with air compressor. * Clean and/or soak completey with denatured alcohol and let airdry. * Shake can of Alumihide II for about 3 to 5 minutes. * Spray 2 to 3 light coats 15 minutes apart. * Let hang & airdry in a warm, dry area for 7 days to fully cure. YOU WILL BE SATISFIED WITH THE RESULTS IF YOU FOLLOW MY ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS ! JUST BE PATIENT. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lammy 1 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 (edited) lammy... how did the rustoleom work for you? i painted a few mags and while it looks nice.. it "bleeds" it's got this powdery residue that just keeps coming off. i painted then baked. (300 degrees. an hour) My reply is a bit late but what I do on certain builds is spray the Rustoleum textured, bake it and when it's cold I'll rub the finish with a cotton rag and oil. The finish will absorb a lot of oil. I never bake in the house, as I have a toaster oven in the shop just for this reason. It works well and holds better than a lot of foreign mil finishes. I use the textured stuff because it's the closest thing I have found to original bulgarian paint. There are a few gun paints out there and some work good, some suck. Usually I will mask off the barrel and paint just the receiver, trunnion, and rivets and it matches the rest of the parts... It's that close! Just used it on a krink kit, receiver only and you can't tell. Reports from other builders is that it stands up to some of the nastier gun cleaners out there too. The 300 for and hour should be good, just make sure your prep is good too. The only thing I can't say is how well it would stand up to sustained fire on the barrel. I know bulgarian paint doesn't like it. I learned about this from another forum, and I have not really heard bad things about it. (From people that used the above method) Edited April 14, 2008 by lammy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lsgs 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 (edited) i too use alumahyde II on my projects.. after it cures it is about bullet proof.. on exteriors only . too thick for inside parts.already made that mistake ,, use something else in a teflon molly . for inside receivers. alumahyde 2 is easy rattle cans, multi colors available and reasonable price. here's a small pic of s 308 with some of the paint on it.. p.s. no baking! but the longer it sits the harder it cures.. touchable in a few hours .. add colors no less thaan 24 hours.. best results i have had is let it sit 3 to 4 weeks sounds long but for air cure epoxy that is solvent resisstant its not.. Edited April 14, 2008 by lsgs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gr8santini 13 Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 For those of you interested in doing camo jobs, here's a good source for inexpensive templates: BULLDOG ARMS Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thor's Hammer 33 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 (edited) Got some pics of the underside where you painted? I'm still on the fence on what to use to refinish the underside of mine. I did the underside of mine a couple weeks ago with Krylon BBQ paint that works well so far. Looks good, no primer required. Degreased the lower side before doing anything. Then scuffed the very bottom with a scotch brite pad, then one more final degrease pass. I fully taped off (use the Delicate Surfaces 90 day release tape) the mag release, then the sides all along the rear continuing up past the mag well. A sheet of aluminum foil makes quick work of masking off the barrel. For me the trick was to not create a sharply defined paint edge, and to stand back making making multiple light coats so as not to get a too smooth/thick wet finish. An easy way to hide the transition is to mask a "tape fence" around the bottom. I faded the paint at the mag well area. when I was satisfied with the complete/minimal coverage, I then pulled off the masking tape and set it in front of a 500 watt halogen flood light for about 45min to bake it in. Where I screwed up was using standard masking tape which lifted the factory finish in places when I removed it. So then I had to hit both sides with a couple light coats to cover. Sure, its no moly resin, and I may go there someday, but for now its a good looking and easy to maintain DIY finish. For spot touchups I spray some in a cap and use a brush, or make a simple painting stencil out of some thin cardboard like the BB&B 20% coupons that come in the mail. Cut an opening in the shape of the area you want to touch up and hold it off 1/4" with one hand while spraying at/through the opening with the other hand. Edited August 22, 2008 by Thor's Hammer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 If you use the Duplicolor engine enamel, the low gloss is a better match than the semi gloss. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vujade 0 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 yep. atleast for all my ak mags - the engine paint is wonderful. no powdery stuff and it matches really well (low gloss) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DS12 1 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 What are you guys using to degrease with? I want to try my first paint job not sure what to go buy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DS12 1 Posted August 22, 2008 Report Share Posted August 22, 2008 jeez, who the hell sells ceracote, NIC shop online requires you to fucking call them in order to log onto their catalog?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
quinci956 1 Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 What are you guys using to degrease with? I want to try my first paint job not sure what to go buy. I use acetone but make sure to use rubber or latex gloves. It is not supposed to be good for you and will soak through your skin. The last time I got lazy and used it without gloves, i got a pretty good headache. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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