saiga paint

[Azrial 1,091]

Frankly considering the value of a correctly converted Saiga, specially the S12, I do not understand using a cheap finish. I intend to use DuraCoat or some other quality finish over Parkerizeing.

[gr8santini 13]

What are you guys using to degrease with? I want to try my first paint job not sure what to go buy.

 

I use brake cleaner from Wal-Mart or any auto parts store. It works great, just don't use it on plastic. Make sure you get the non-chlorinated kind that reads "leaves no residue" on the can.

[G O B 3,516]

Whatever cleaner you use, spray or drip some on a clean piece of window glass. If it leaves streaks or film when dry, it is not good for the final cleaning. Laquer thinner works good for a final cleaner.

[Shannon McNair 1]

This is actually a great thread, but looking through the responses I'm lost on where to begin. Is there a very cheap, easy to apply, do it at home, no assembly required coating/paint/finish/whatever that will protect the gun better than whatever finish it arrived with from the factory? I've seen terms like Parkerizing and Moly Resin tossed about. What's the cheap-but-undeniably-effective-cant-go-wrong way to do it?

 

UPDATE: Ok, in reading this forum again, it looks like Duplicolor is one popular inexpensive option, and that it requires no baking. So, before I would do this, what I'd like to know is:

 

1. Does anyone know how the paint holds up compared to, say, Moly Resin, in terms of protecting the gun?

2. Do you take the gun apart to apply the paint, or just use it on the exterior?

3. What do I need to do to prep the gun? I've seen some say to use a degreaser first. Is that all? The gun is factory new and has never been fired.

Edited November 11, 2008 by Molten Tuna

[smokymtnsmoke 0]

This is actually a great thread, but looking through the responses I'm lost on where to begin. Is there a very cheap, easy to apply, do it at home, no assembly required coating/paint/finish/whatever that will protect the gun better than whatever finish it arrived with from the factory? I've seen terms like Parkerizing and Moly Resin tossed about. What's the cheap-but-undeniably-effective-cant-go-wrong way to do it?

 

UPDATE: Ok, in reading this forum again, it looks like Duplicolor is one popular inexpensive option, and that it requires no baking. So, before I would do this, what I'd like to know is:

 

1. Does anyone know how the paint holds up compared to, say, Moly Resin, in terms of protecting the gun?

2. Do you take the gun apart to apply the paint, or just use it on the exterior?

3. What do I need to do to prep the gun? I've seen some say to use a degreaser first. Is that all? The gun is factory new and has never been fired.

 

 

Here's a good thread http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=2252...p;highlight=sks

 

It has a good "How To" as well as pics of an SKS and a Mosin Nagant I did using Duplicolor 500 degree engine paint in Cast Coat Iron http://forum.gon.com/showpost.php?p=2458040&postcount=16

 

I did it back in July when we just happen to have a really dry / low humidity day. It turned out very well and has held up very well. After deer season I'm going to use the same paint to do my Stevens/Savage .308 bolt gun.

 

Before I painted either gun I tried the process on a scrap piece of steel that was in my shop as an experiment. I was very impressed with the results and durability of the paint so I prepped the guns, taped up the scope, hung the gun (out of the stock) by a coat hanger from a tree limb in my back yard and started with back and forth motion while spraying at about 8-12 inches away paying very close attention to the lay of the spray so I didn't get any runs. After I was satisfied with the paint job I hung them in my shop to fully dry / cure. I gave them about 4-6 hours, checking the hardness of the paint in a inconspicuous spot with my thumb nail before I attempted to put it back in the stock.

 

I hope that helps get you started. I may do it to my Saiga .308 at some point.

[Shannon McNair 1]

Here's a good thread http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=2252...p;highlight=sks

 

Thanks, I'll take a look.

[cjive134 0]

I have used Brownell's Alumahide II with great results. It holds up much better than the Rustoleum, Duplicolor & Krylon paint finishes . It is an epoxy spray that when applied correctly and fully cures, is pretty damn durable (chemical resistant also) and looks really good. I've used it on Aluminium, steel, woods & plastics with wonderful results.

 

* Completely degrease and clean piece to be finished (if metal)

* Rough the surface with a green Scotchbrite scrubbing pad.

* Blow off dust with air compressor.

* Clean and/or soak completey with denatured alcohol and let airdry.

* Shake can of Alumihide II for about 3 to 5 minutes.

* Spray 2 to 3 light coats 15 minutes apart.

* Let hang & airdry in a warm, dry area for 7 days to fully cure.

 

YOU WILL BE SATISFIED WITH THE RESULTS IF YOU FOLLOW MY ABOVE INSTRUCTIONS ! JUST BE PATIENT.

 

Does anyone know if break cleaner can be used as the degreaser? It sometimes leaves a little residue, but would be cleaned off in the denatured alcohol cleaning stage. Has anyone used this method?

[usmc0707 0]

I used the tan/od green from advance auto parts...Krylon ultra-flat....camouflage....it says its made with fusion for plastics... I got the stock, barrell, slide protector all painted...didnt bake it or anthing special, Ive shot about 500 rounds through it, and it hasnt melted or anything...Worked great and cheap....

[Jeff M 0]

Here's a good thread http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=2252...p;highlight=sks

Lot's of cool stuff in there.

[Shannon McNair 1]

Frankly considering the value of a correctly converted Saiga, specially the S12, I do not understand using a cheap finish. I intend to use DuraCoat or some other quality finish over Parkerizeing.

 

I thought I read somewhere that the Saiga 12 IZ-109 is parkerized prior to painting out-of-the-box. Is this true?