vjor 2 Posted February 22, 2008 Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 Well I Re-blasted this guys from hot phos to k-phos to see how the k-phos is going to do and if it is going to hold the camo as good as regular phos, been that the Saiga shoot out is near I was thinking will be excellent opportunity to push the k-phos and see after prolong use it will hold or not. This two look grey as the color of k-phos waiting for the camo to be done tomorrow. Yes k-phos is easy to do, just a compressor and air brush plus a respirator unless you like to bread phosphoric acid ( not to good on the lungs unless you are not human). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jgillaspy 24 Posted February 22, 2008 Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 Could you post a link to the k-phos info? I was wanting to park my Saiga, but if this is easier, I'll do this! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted February 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 (edited) Could you post a link to the k-phos info? I was wanting to park my Saiga, but if this is easier, I'll do this! Brother here is your link, for the k-phos, I got quarts. https://www.kgcoatings.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...egory_Code=gkpt http://www.kgcoatings.com/firearms_home.html If you do it, put it light with a air brush, don't re-coat like crazy, nice light coat and you ready to paint over it. the max time I have left it before paint over is one day. All depends on humidity were you live, here in Florida flash rust will show real quick, humidity is your enemy after even blast if you don't phos or k-phos flash rust will show like instantly on parts. Edited February 22, 2008 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveInGA 0 Posted February 22, 2008 Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 If you do it, put it light with a air brush, don't re-coat like crazy, nice light coat and you ready to paint over it.the max time I have left it before paint over is one day. All depends on humidity were you live, here in Florida flash rust will show real quick, humidity is your enemy after even blast if you don't phos or k-phos flash rust will show like instantly on parts. Suppose you didn't want to paint over it? Could it be oiled up and used as is, per normal parkerizing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted February 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 (edited) If you do it, put it light with a air brush, don't re-coat like crazy, nice light coat and you ready to paint over it.the max time I have left it before paint over is one day. All depends on humidity were you live, here in Florida flash rust will show real quick, humidity is your enemy after even blast if you don't phos or k-phos flash rust will show like instantly on parts. Suppose you didn't want to paint over it? Could it be oiled up and used as is, per normal parkerizing? No brother, it is made as a bonding agent for gunkote, not a true stand alone phosphate finish I ask the guys at KG my self and they say nope, they recommend a fully phos finish for that purposed. Man I am taking a smoke brake between coats of paint, let me say something, nothing like and air brush to control the thickness of the paint were you want it. Even the cheapo harbor freight let you do it if you know how to use an air brush and mix your paint to work on it. Edited February 22, 2008 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted February 22, 2008 Report Share Posted February 22, 2008 Vjor.......where'd ya get that gas block? And thanks for posting the K-Phos thread, I know you've got mad home parkerizing skills, so it's going to be nice to get your opinion on how this stacks up for something that your going to top coat anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted February 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2008 Vjor.......where'd ya get that gas block? And thanks for posting the K-Phos thread, I know you've got mad home parkerizing skills, so it's going to be nice to get your opinion on how this stacks up for something that your going to top coat anyway. Brother on the gas block, I call Chris butler at AK-USA and well he was cleaning the shop and told me he found one more and that if I wanted the GBFS, well as soon as he say it I say send it to papa. On the K-phos, well I have use it before, one thing I have seen is that dont soak paint as hard as regular phos, kind of soft on the bonding not as hard core as regular phos, but cant complain this stuff dont take half the work of regular phos, but still have to see if the bonding will hold on really prolong use of the gun or the stuff will peel off. More info after the shoot out, well if it dont take it, I guess blast again the finish and redo it on regular phos and duracoat or go cerakote, my wife think I am nuts because the guns came out tits with the camos and she says waste of labor and good finish if the k-phos dont work as promese. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted February 24, 2008 Report Share Posted February 24, 2008 Looks good! Good work! I just got a new tank myself! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted February 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2008 Looks good! Good work! I just got a new tank myself! Thanks man, well ion few regular phos is work, but is a lot you can do with it. Hey brother about tanks, I have a steel one, but I may change into fiver glass and ceramic heathers, a lot cheaper and no flames around. If you see any fiver glass tanks let me know, the only ones I have seen and use are from brownells and not cheap and heathers from caswell inc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted February 24, 2008 Report Share Posted February 24, 2008 Looks good Vjor. I am much more familiar with the manganese phosphate parkerization. How do you compare the two? Is color the only difference? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted February 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2008 (edited) Looks good Vjor. I am much more familiar with the manganese phosphate parkerization. How do you compare the two? Is color the only difference? Manganese Phos is more rough texture than zinc Phos and manganese the grey color is darker, but I have done some manganese phos that is just like zinc phos, you cant tell the difference. Now K-phos, well is OK not like regular phos, I was playing this Sunday with some stuff and zinc phos couple of pieces of carbon steel and K-phos couple more and let both sit for like half hour to let the k-phos cure, well I blasted the pieces and the k-phos came out real easy, No it don't do macroscopic pitting as hard as regular phos meaning is light on the metal, I will say I will still use it the k-phos but cant compare to regular phos, but one thing I will say, still a better bonding agent that just paint over metal with out a bonding agent. And I will say it is OK for the regular home owner stuff that goes to the range and some hunting, now if you going hard core survival in a jungle, or desert or some were really rough, no is not for you is not a bonding that will really keep duracote or gunkote stick to the metal in and abusive environment were the gun is going to be handle really rough. But If I was a home owner builder that built few guns and go shooting here and there no crazy stuff ( jungle Jim ) I will use it for bonding agent and be happy. One thing you have to apply k-phos light with air brush, just a coat on the light side people get thinking of this stuff as a paint and is not, is acidic stuff to make a really light bonding for paint. That means a little quart or pint goes a long way for about 20 bucks you can do a ton of stuff. One thing I will say, is not final word on this stuff, I still looking into the duracote fully cure, well I have to see if after complete cure on the bonding and if a piece peels off or scratch on the finish do the bonding will hold and dont let the rest peel or scratch more like you see when you dont use a bonding and one scratch becomes the end of the finish because it will peel of the metal starting from a little scratch. Edited February 25, 2008 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted March 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2008 Well here again with this stuff, well yesterday tested the guns at the Saiga shoot out. Ok let see , first the .223 have to spats were the paint came off, one was small spat on the side of the receiver cover, the other one was small spat on the ACE skeleton stock, today I check the gun overall was ok. Second the 7.62x39 was OK, one small bubble area on bottom of barrel. But that was the result of continuous firing about I think 500 to 600 rounds of ammo true it. Well is kind of my fault as I don't let the duracote fully cure for about 2 weeks before the shoot out. OK lets see, on the 7.62x39 the plastic part on the ACe skeleton stock was blasted to make it rough fro the duracote to stick to it, no problems what so ever on that stock, on the other hand I left the ACE skeleton stock untouched on the .223 just degrease and duracote over it, looks like the plastic part on the ACE don't take any paint well if not rough up wit the blaster the plastic part looks like acetal or something similar. Lessont to be learn, blast the plastic part before you use duracote. Now on the receiver cover on the .223, well to tell the truth can be 2 things, the .223 was blast with fine media and the 7.62x39 was blast with rough media, making the metal rough on the 7.62x39 letting the k-phos do its work a lot better, the second reason can be that I may miss a spot on the cover and is all my fault, or like my wife says that I did it purposelly to re blast the gun and do it on cerakote, because she says that I have done a lot of stuff and I dont usually fubar stuff like that unless I want stuff to happen. Well I plea no contest to it. OK in few after the shoot out, about at list 400 rounds true each gun some times rapid fire like few mags plus makc did I think a 75 round drum or two true the 7.62x39 the k-phos holds ok, I inspected the two guns this morning and the rest of the paint job was ok, the part were it came off on the receiver cover stop right on the spot, like a dime size and don't peal any more, I try this morning to rub it and see if the paint will peel on continue peeling and it dont do it at all, even try some solvent on it and see if the pain will take off and it don't, well to make things short I clean the guns with hopes number 9 the paint killer, it took it like nothing at all, even poor some hopes9 on the spot were the paint came off and nothing happen, I guess I have to be more careful as I do finishes on my guns. OK things to think about, K-phos likes rough Blasting, blast the plastic part on the Ace skeleton stock to let duracote stick better to it, let the stuff cure about 2 weeks after cook in oven like manufacture says before taking the gun to Florida shoot out and putting about 400 rounds true it or taking it any were and shooting the crap out of it. In few I like the stuff, but nothing like regular zinc phosphate. By the way on the plastic on the guns one hand guard and pistol grip was blasted before duracote and one grip and hand guard was not, both grips and hand guard are ok the duracote still solid and there no problemos. On the blasted parts, they feel good to the hand, the feeling of better grip on it I mean the pistol grip and hand guard feel like a better grip cause of grainy surface after the blasting on the plastic parts. But thats is me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.