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Kray

.308 FCG ???

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OK. I need some help here. As I understand it the G2 FCG needs a bit of work on the hammer get it to fit. Not to mention the side to side play and possible safety issue. Is this all correct?

 

Another question is this. Does the RSA FCG fit as a drop in part with no grinding or filing? Does it eliminate the side to side play in the trigger. What RSA fits? The VEPR trigger?

 

Any other FCG options to consider??

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

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I don't know about the RSA trigger, but the G2 requires some grinding of the "bump" on the front side of the base of the hammer in order of it to clear the cross member on the receiver. This is pretty straight forward and you really can't screw it up since your grinding off a part of it that doesn't come in contact with the trigger and other parts. It's more of a meatball cut and not a precision thing you need to do. I'd suggest putting it in first to see what and where you need to grind (you'll figure it out in no time).

 

If I remember correctly, the width of the G2 only needs to be modified if you plan on putting the bolt hold open back in it. This can be handy, but may not be entirely necessary if you plan on using the surefire mags which act as a bho in themselves. Personally, I ditched the BHO in two of my three 308's because it tends to slam into my trigger finger when firing while wearing my winter jacket (or anything that bounces back the gun after recoil)

 

The safety issue can be dealt with in a couple of ways, the best and easiest is to not leave a round in the chamber when you want to be safe (that's a good idea for any gun). The second thing is that it only becomes "hot" if you pull the trigger with the safety on. If you first push the trigger back forward before taking the safety off, it will not fire. The second option is just more of an FYI in case you've forgotten to clear the chamber and may have fudged the trigger. Keep it pointed in a safe direction if you pull the safety off in that case.

 

You can also weld a bit on to the hammer in order to resolve the issue (see the post for that in the tagged threads to get a better explanation).

Edited by buckandaquarterquarterstaff

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The RSA trigger is "drop in" except I did have to clearance my safety slightly so it would work. Keep in mind that since the RSA FCG is fully adjustable, you will need to follow the adjustment procedure carefully to end up with a safe/good trigger. I highly recommend purchasing a trigger pull scale if you are planning on doing this work.

 

I have the RSA trigger in my .308 and I like it a lot. Since I was not comfortable adjusting it right to the ragged edge, it is not quite perfect. It is still obviously an AK trigger, but it is a VERY GOOD AK trigger.

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thanks for the thoughts guys. Keep them coming. I do have an RSA trigger in my Arsenal AK and I like it a lot. So I do have some experience adjusting them. Is it the VEPR .308 RSA I would want to order?

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I don't know about the RSA trigger, but the G2 requires some grinding of the "bump" on the front side of the base of the hammer in order of it to clear the cross member on the receiver. This is pretty straight forward and you really can't screw it up since your grinding off a part of it that doesn't come in contact with the trigger and other parts. It's more of a meatball cut and not a precision thing you need to do. I'd suggest putting it in first to see what and where you need to grind (you'll figure it out in no time).

 

If I remember correctly, the width of the G2 only needs to be modified if you plan on putting the bolt hold open back in it. This can be handy, but may not be entirely necessary if you plan on using the surefire mags which act as a bho in themselves. Personally, I ditched the BHO in two of my three 308's because it tends to slam into my trigger finger when firing while wearing my winter jacket (or anything that bounces back the gun after recoil)

 

The safety issue can be dealt with in a couple of ways, the best and easiest is to not leave a round in the chamber when you want to be safe (that's a good idea for any gun). The second thing is that it only becomes "hot" if you pull the trigger with the safety on. If you first push the trigger back forward before taking the safety off, it will not fire. The second option is just more of an FYI in case you've forgotten to clear the chamber and may have fudged the trigger. Keep it pointed in a safe direction if you pull the safety off in that case.

 

You can also weld a bit on to the hammer in order to resolve the issue (see the post for that in the tagged threads to get a better explanation).

 

I am also trying to decide on a fcg for my s-308. The safety issue to me is really important and I would prefer not to have to worry about it(aka I want no issues with possible nd's involving safety on trigger pulls). I noticed on Dinzag's site that he modifies the Tapco fcg. Do his mods eliminate this problem?

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So can anybody chime in as to what RSA trigger group to order? Is the standard AK or the VEPR .308 ??

I read someone on here saying they used a vepr fcg on their s308 and it dropped right in. Why not email or call red star arms and ask them? www.redstararms.com . I am considering an rsa fcg too.

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What about welding / adding some material to the bottom of the safety lever leg making it longer, as to have it sit lower and engage the right leg of the trigger? As long as it's not too long to fit in the right side of the receiver (the slot cut for the lever) you should get the same outcome. Easier to replace safety levers then triggers if you should happen to screw up.

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I'm using a RSA FCG and love it. It was easy to install (no grinding or messing around), and it's adjustable for just about everything from length of pull to over travel. You will need the Vepr 308 FCG.

I did not have a problem with the safety either.

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I'm using a RSA FCG and love it. It was easy to install (no grinding or messing around), and it's adjustable for just about everything from length of pull to over travel. You will need the Vepr 308 FCG.

I did not have a problem with the safety either.

 

What is the difference between the RSA trigger groups for the standard AK and the one for the VEPR? Because I am pretty sure I used one for a standard AK in my .308 conversion, and it seems to work fine. I had to narrow the surface on the safety that blocks the trigger for clearance with the hammer, but that was it. And I have had to do that on standard AK builds using the G2 FCG.

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Not really sure what the difference is, that's what I was told to use here on the forum. It dropped in with no modifications to the safety or from side to side play.

It did take some shooting to get all the adjustments (set screws) where I wanted them though.

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I did the Vepr .308 as well and had a slight issue with the height of the sear, the bolt would smack it. No big deal, I think that the problem was resolved with adjustment, but I still chose to take a little off the top just because. I'm pretty sure that there are posts outlining this issue somewhere around here.

 

I also ground material away from the selector for clearance on the disconnector ONLY, the safety engagement was left alone. This was done for safety reasons and ease of assembly/disassembly, I do this for both the RSA and G2. I think that the instructions that come with the RSA even outline this procedure.

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I also ground material away from the selector for clearance on the disconnector ONLY, the safety engagement was left alone. This was done for safety reasons and ease of assembly/disassembly, I do this for both the RSA and G2. I think that the instructions that come with the RSA even outline this procedure.

 

That is precisely what I had to do with mine.

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The RSA I have in my 308 floats side to side, same as a G2 trigger.

 

That is because the 308 factory trigger has the sheetmetal trigger spot welded on the outside of a standard width trigger block.

The receiver opening is wider on them.

 

Aside from that, which can be fixed with a washer, they are great FCG's.

 

Safety works good as-is, where a G2 needs some positive material added to the right rear trigger leg or the safety tang lengthened.

 

post-2093-1205294675_thumb.jpg

 

 

Crossmember cut in hammer required. That is why you need a 308 RSA.

 

Width of hammer should be reduced for BHO lever.

 

Also profile of hammer face needs to me adjusted to look similiar to the factory hammer - see pic

(not a requirement, but sure as hell makes it much smoother cycling IMHO)

 

post-2093-1205294427_thumb.jpg

Edited by dinzag

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I recently put in the G2 FCG and left the BHO lever in place, required some grinding on the hammer as well as profiling the hammer. No big deal there! I choose to weld up the safety lever then filed it to fit vs. the trigger. The safety lever seemed easier. The trigger feels much better than the original and there were no real problems getting everything to fit, just lots of filing and taking it nice and slow.

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The RSA I have in my 308 floats side to side, same as a G2 trigger.

 

That is because the 308 factory trigger has the sheetmetal trigger spot welded on the outside of a standard width trigger block.

The receiver opening is wider on them.

 

Aside from that, which can be fixed with a washer, they are great FCG's.

 

I used spacers: 5/16" OD x 3/16" L (#10 ID) for the left side and a 5/16" OD x 3/8" L (#10 ID) for the right. A little sanding and they hold the trigger rock solid in the center. I ordered PN's 67713032 & 67713156 from MSCDirect.com. For more information see my thread: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=7937.

 

Larry

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I used the G2 trigger with the saiga hammer since I had plenty of complience parts anyway. I also just welded a little onto the safety lever to fix that.

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