TROMIX Short Throw/Reset Trigger

[jrance@iacwds.com 716]

LOL !!!!

 

I'd call that a huge-ass understatement !! I'm likely the most vocal proponent of Tony's work here and elsewhere (as we all know)..... There's a valid reason for that.......Anyone who owns a TROMIX weapon already knows what that reason is, too !! I am the TROMIX MASCOT, after all................

 

Stop it Joe! your frightening the customers.

 

I thought you wanted people to BUY Tony's weapons.

 

Just messin' with ya. (but ya ain't no Miss RSA or Christina! )

Anybody got PhotoShop and a cheerleader dress? Now that's how you mess with Jeaux E!

[ML Roak 0]

Is it possible to keep the stock trigger with overtravel block, then switch in the G2 the sear and hammer only? You lose x1 922r part, but you only need 3 with an s12 anyway. PG, stock, and gas piston have you covered, let alone x3 for agp or MD drum (soon!).

 

HeadHunter,

If you were doing an unconverted gun it would be possible, I decided that it would be easier to mill some clearance into the G2 trigger than the G2 sear (at least while just "Playing" with the thought). No time today to play with it

[SaigaNoobie 66]

I get the concept behind this mod. Seems easy enough to do in house... the only problem is: Can anyone think of another product that would be good for adding to the trigger OTHER than a weld? I mean welding would be best, but how about some JB weld or other Metal adhesive? Maybe some sort of epoxy or resin? All the pressure on the material would be compression... even regular old glue is strong under just compression. I need something that won't squish or crack under normal S-12 recoil forces.

 

It just has to be rigid, and shape-able.

 

 

And just like that, I see this on T.V. . . .

 

https://mightyputty.com/spark/index.php?ai=8

Edited March 26, 2008 by SaigaNoobie

[joelrod47 373]

I am the TROMIX MASCOT, after all...............

 

Anybody got PhotoShop and a cheerleader dress? Now that's how you mess with Jeaux E!

 

 

Guys !!! There's a huge difference between a mascot and a cheerleader !!! Although I do appreciate the ribbing !!! LOL !!

(...those of you who don't know the difference, stay away from me at the tailgate party, dudes..............)

Edited March 26, 2008 by Jeaux E

[pedal2alloy 206]

I get the concept behind this mod. Seems easy enough to do in house... the only problem is: Can anyone think of another product that would be good for adding to the trigger OTHER than a weld? I mean welding would be best, but how about some JB weld or other Metal adhesive? Maybe some sort of epoxy or resin? All the pressure on the material would be compression... even regular old glue is strong under just compression. I need something that won't squish or crack under normal S-12 recoil forces.

 

It just has to be rigid, and shape-able.

 

 

And just like that, I see this on T.V. . . .

 

https://mightyputty.com/spark/index.php?ai=8

 

I know it is tempting, but any kind of putty or adhesive in this kind of application is guaranteed to fail. Even welding is not 100% reliable in high stress parts, although I would trust Tony's judgement in this case. In general, as far as reliability goes, anything not milled out of a solid piece of steel is suspect.

[whatmanual 44]

Somehow I think at tailgate parties Jeaux would have a tool box right near the gate. Nothing too conspicous of course.

Given his passion for the shorties..... make sure you brought the beer instead of the pom pom gag gift idea.

 

 

 

~Steve

Edited March 27, 2008 by whatmanual

[SaigaNoobie 66]

I get the concept behind this mod. Seems easy enough to do in house... the only problem is: Can anyone think of another product that would be good for adding to the trigger OTHER than a weld? I mean welding would be best, but how about some JB weld or other Metal adhesive? Maybe some sort of epoxy or resin? All the pressure on the material would be compression... even regular old glue is strong under just compression. I need something that won't squish or crack under normal S-12 recoil forces.

 

It just has to be rigid, and shape-able.

 

 

And just like that, I see this on T.V. . . .

 

https://mightyputty.com/spark/index.php?ai=8

 

I know it is tempting, but any kind of putty or adhesive in this kind of application is guaranteed to fail. Even welding is not 100% reliable in high stress parts, although I would trust Tony's judgement in this case. In general, as far as reliability goes, anything not milled out of a solid piece of steel is suspect.

 

Nothing really "High Stress" about some compression on a trigger group. It's not part of the bolt carrier. All you need is something that will adhere to the underside of the trigger hook and the rear area under the trigger under the disconnecter.

[ML Roak 0]

OK,

I had time to to finish what I started (it takes a while sometimes).

I did the necessary milling on the G2 trigger to clear the factory stop and fit it for a good hammer release, then I milled .078 off of the side of the G2 sear to give room for the stop to sit in. I placed shims under the tail of the trigger until I had the thickness I wanted (about .025), mixed-up some J-B weld and applied it to the bottoms of the tails, let it set, then filed it to shape and desired size. If the J-b weld doesn't hold up it's not a big deal, it comes off it won't hurt anything, it just wont have quite as quick of a reset, and if it holds it will work until I can get some weld on it.

I didn't get quite as good of results as what Tony reported, but Tony is a professional and I'm a Jailer . I've got about .200 total trigger movement (measured from the front of the trigger guard to the tip of the trigger), it's MUCH better than it was and I'm pretty happy with it. If you have access to a welder it would be a LOT easier job, but since I don't have a welder and I do have a mill, you gotta dance with the girl ya got

See ya,

ML Roak

[pedal2alloy 206]

I get the concept behind this mod. Seems easy enough to do in house... the only problem is: Can anyone think of another product that would be good for adding to the trigger OTHER than a weld? I mean welding would be best, but how about some JB weld or other Metal adhesive? Maybe some sort of epoxy or resin? All the pressure on the material would be compression... even regular old glue is strong under just compression. I need something that won't squish or crack under normal S-12 recoil forces.

 

It just has to be rigid, and shape-able.

 

 

And just like that, I see this on T.V. . . .

 

https://mightyputty.com/spark/index.php?ai=8

 

 

I know it is tempting, but any kind of putty or adhesive in this kind of application is guaranteed to fail. Even welding is not 100% reliable in high stress parts, although I would trust Tony's judgement in this case. In general, as far as reliability goes, anything not milled out of a solid piece of steel is suspect.

 

Nothing really "High Stress" about some compression on a trigger group. It's not part of the bolt carrier. All you need is something that will adhere to the underside of the trigger hook and the rear area under the trigger under the disconnecter.

 

 

It will get some oil on it, and be subjected to movement and recoil. It will work for a while, but it will eventually de-laminate.

[Superhawk138 202]

I modified my tapco trigger and disconnector to allow room for the overtravel limiter. Short pull no trigger slap as I had prior to this mod I also added a nub so the hammer spring wouldn't fall off the trigger leg.

 

[Gunfixr 76]

I figured it out also and have done three so far, 2 Saigas and a Romanian AK. I'm fixing to do a couple more for customers.

 

The welding won't hurt the trigger if you do it quickly, as you are doing it at the far ends of the trigger, away from wear points. I TIG welded them. One set i did differently. I actually welded a small plate inside the receiver that the rear of the trigger set on, and fitted the trigger to it. This was much slower than welding directly on the trigger.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

IGOR!! Fetch me those extra Russian triggers I told ya I was saving for a reason!

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

LOL !!!!

 

I'd call that a huge-ass understatement !! I'm likely the most vocal proponent of Tony's work here and elsewhere (as we all know)..... There's a valid reason for that.......Anyone who owns a TROMIX weapon already knows what that reason is, too !! I am the TROMIX MASCOT, after all................

 

Stop it Joe! your frightening the customers.

 

I thought you wanted people to BUY Tony's weapons.

 

Just messin' with ya. (but ya ain't no Miss RSA or Christina! )

Anybody got PhotoShop and a cheerleader dress? Now that's how you mess with Jeaux E!

I got away with it once already...ya think it's worth it to try again? lol

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Update...I did perform this trigger mod on one of mine the other night, using the factory over travel limiter similar to what Superhawk138 did. All I did was mill enough off of the outside of the disconnector to fit the factory piece in there. Had to take a little off the limiter on the bottom though. I didn't take anything off the trigger itself. Just to guage how much needed to be added to the trigger tails, I put a small zip tie tight around both tails (behind the spring legs) and clipped off the excess.

What I ended up with after about an hour is friggin AWESOME.

 

I took some measurements before and after...

 

Before:

Total travel measured from tip of trigger to back of TG = .72"

Pull weight just over three pounds (this was my already tuned and polished G-2 single hook)

 

After:

Total travel = .1125"

Pull weight = just over two pounds.

 

It's also a true two stage setup where the first half of the pull clicks and the hammer is caught on the edge of the sear. I can even remove my finger and it stays right there. The next micro click and the hammer drops. I like it!

 

Can't wait to bump it!

[USP40 1]

Cobra what is the factory over travel limiter and where can I get it?

Thanks

Jesse

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

It's that little grey colored thingy in the factory Saiga FCG that most people go "wtf is that thing?" and toss.

[USP40 1]

It's that little grey colored thingy in the factory Saiga FCG that most people go "wtf is that thing?" and toss.

Man...that was exactly what I did dang it.

Thanks man

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Basically it's just something to make contact with the front edge of the trigger before it goes far enough to hit the receiver. If you will notice in my pic, the "fork" in the Saiga trigger linkage does the same thing at the rear.

 

I'm going to experiment with using these two factory parts to make an adjustable throw trigger using the G-2.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

Update... I had to do some more work on that trigger mod. I was having disconnector probs. Not good....lol. This is a tricky little mod, it's definitely worth what Tony is charging, especially considering he's welding them and having to adjust afterwards.

 

I ended up using part of the original linkage to work for the back legs. Works great now! A slight bit more travel than I had but still WAY better than it was by itself. The limiter up front is also working great and it's nice to have found a use for those.

 

Here's what it looked like before in the gun (with the zip tie), and what the FCG looks like modded out of the gun. Got rid of the zip tie and I'm now using the fork, secured by the rear TG bolt (drilled out my rivet and replaced with a bolt).

 

 

 

 

[cpu77 0]

It's definitely worth what Tony is charging, especially considering he's welding them and having to adjust afterwards.

It would be nice to have done but are we on a waiting list till next year? I would like to have things now:)

[USP40 1]

It's that little grey colored thingy in the factory Saiga FCG that most people go "wtf is that thing?" and toss.

I found that grey thingy !!!! he he he going to try to do it next weekend .

Thanks again Cobra.

Jesse

[Gunfixr 76]

I still have the little grey thingy, but didn't use it. I welded and fitted like Tony does it.

[jhereg 0]

Maybe there's a market for someone to weld these up for people who do their own fitting. I'm perfectly capable of taking metal off. I just don't have the welder to weld it.

[Gunfixr 76]

HMMMMMM.............................

[jhereg 0]

HMMMMMM.............................

 

[Gunfixr 76]

There's a thought. I could get a bunch of G2 FCGs, mod the hammer to clear the receiver and BHO, polish and tune the trigger and sear engagement areas, weld build up for the SRT, and sell as ready to install, needing the SRT fitted.

A page of instructions on how the SRT is adjusted.

[USP40 1]

There's a thought. I could get a bunch of G2 FCGs, mod the hammer to clear the receiver and BHO, polish and tune the trigger and sear engagement areas, weld build up for the SRT, and sell as ready to install, needing the SRT fitted.

A page of instructions on how the SRT is adjusted.

sound good

[ML Roak 0]

There's a thought. I could get a bunch of G2 FCGs, mod the hammer to clear the receiver and BHO, polish and tune the trigger and sear engagement areas, weld build up for the SRT, and sell as ready to install, needing the SRT fitted.

A page of instructions on how the SRT is adjusted.

 

The upside is that I dont think it could get screwed-up in a way that would make it dangerous, if you take off too much it would just have more travel.

:dollar: Go for it!

[Gunfixr 76]

The upside is that I dont think it could get screwed-up in a way that would make it dangerous, if you take off too much it would just have more travel.

:dollar: Go for it!

 

True, so long as the trigger and sear engagement areas are left alone.

[Cobra 76 two 2,677]

There's a thought. I could get a bunch of G2 FCGs, mod the hammer to clear the receiver and BHO, polish and tune the trigger and sear engagement areas, weld build up for the SRT, and sell as ready to install, needing the SRT fitted.

A page of instructions on how the SRT is adjusted.

 

The upside is that I dont think it could get screwed-up in a way that would make it dangerous, if you take off too much it would just have more travel.

:dollar: Go for it!

As long as the disconnector can still capture the hammer on a full trigger pull...

 

Go fast = BAD....lol