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Let's see some .410 conversion pics!


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Not done yet. Waiting on the dinzag lower retainer and need to pick up a gas tube to butcher the upper retainers off of.  

Finished up my Saiga conversion this weekend. Pretty happy with the results and had a lot of fun doing it. Learned a lot about the weapon and would definitely take on the project again sometime (Maybe

Been stalking for awhile and thought i should start contributing. Here's my recently finished .410 build. Sorry for the crappy cel pics.  

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I've noticed a lot of folding vertical grips. I bought one, (even though I don't have my new hand guard yet), but I'm thinking about returning it and putting the money towards something else.

 

It just doesn't seem all that necessary on a .410, but I may be wrong.

 

Anyone have .02 cents they want to put in on it?

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This is a 20 years old Saiga .410.Althought i dont have shoot so many rounds in it, it gives me a hard time lately.Lots of jam, with the cartrige to stuck on the ejector cut ramp witch lies at 2 oclock in the entrance of chamber.The only one brand of slugs that feed corectly, is the Federal 76 mm.Any way, as the model came total clean, i had to add the left side scope base by drilling holes on the receiver, and i changed the simple plastic buttstock with one i made my self a sunday morning.Dual scopes are for the photoshoot purposes only, i choosed to keep the red dot sight as a standard one after all.Cover of the barel is a dual aluminium pipes firmly atached and secured with drilled holes as a muzzle brake that add a touch of "beast looking" front side.post-47126-0-29863700-1362935786_thumb.jpgpost-47126-0-74454300-1362935810_thumb.jpgpost-47126-0-33045600-1362935832_thumb.jpg

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Heres some pics of my in the works transition of my NJ legal Saiga 410. I am also installing a Sig Sauer mini red dot sight on a CSS rear sight conversion rail his week!

 

current parts on the firearm are:

 

-Alumalite Vented Tactical Shroud/Brake

-Fuglystick custom made to match Alumalite Shroud (Jay@Fuglystick has been awesome to deal with and would recommend him highly)

-Sig Sauer Vertical grip with Flashlight/Strobe/Laser

-BPH Arms gas adjuster

-CSS gas plug

-Factory Izmash Skeleton stock

-Tromix smooth charging handle

 

post-46868-0-58852500-1368465682_thumb.jpg

 

post-46868-0-63019000-1368465706_thumb.jpg

Edited by TurboBullett
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Hello: I'm a new member to this sight. I recently converted a TEKKO Tri-rail system to my Sagia 410. It took some precise Dremel work to get it to fit like it belonged there. It came out nice, so I just wanted to show it off. I also wanted to assist anyone who may need any help. So here goes:

 

1st. Use a Dremel 1/2 in. 60-Grit Sanding Bands Model # 408 to round out and remove the three, flat ‘U’ posts, in the inner TEKKO. The removable of these three posts isn't critical to the mating of your new TEKKO Tri-rail. Just take off enough so the TEEKO will clear the barrel.

 

2nd. The front clip ring doesn't require any modifications. It will slip right on the TEKKO. But you can now go to step three. This is where the critical work comes into play.

 

3rd. Use a Dremel 1/8 in. Tile Cutting Bit Model # 562 (Or similar. I used a metal cutting bit.). A digital micrometer is the best tool for measuring, but a metal 6" rule will work just fine. You can also use an analog Caliper. When you measure the outside of your 410 at the back end you’ll find the outer dimension to be 1.36” or 1 3/8” or 35mm. When you look at the back of the TEKKO you will see it has a slight ‘horseshoe’ to the mating area. What you’ll need to do is Dremel the inner ‘horseshoe’ along with any other area to one of these three measurements. (i.e. Use the one that works best for you.) You’re end result is to make the inner back of the TEEKO square; or as it will be rectangle. It’s plain to see the largest amount of material will need to be removed at the outer ends where they turn in. There is amply material so don’t be afraid to Dremel away. Keep a close eye on how much you’re slowly removing so as to not exceed the inner dimension as you keep the cut squared. Once the area is set to the correct measurement the bottom slot above the block in the TEEKO will fit exactly into the Saiga. Slip the butt in first, you may need to tap it with a rubber hammer, but it will fit. As you close the gap between the TEEKO and the barrel in order to attach the front clip make sure the fit is not too tight where you removed the material. The TEEKO has to fit without any resistance where you squared it off on the inside. After a few test fits and a little more Dremel work the TEEKO should slip on with only a little resistance. Then when the front clip is attached and the rear section is in the back slot the TEEKO will be snug and ready to go. P.S. I didn’t do it when I installed my Tri-rail, but you may be able to take a box knife and scribe lines on each side where you want to remove the material for guide lines set at the correct distance.

I also removed the two outer rails at this time for a cleaner look.

 

Anyway here are the pictures.

 

 

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post-47689-0-73860500-1369568682_thumb.jpg

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What I started with.

Tangs Left

Managed to keep the tangs

Trigger assembly

Trigger was easy, and surprisingly smooth

Mag well Fit

Lots of dremel work to get mags in

receiver Mag In

Eventually it worked

410 Complete

FINALLY! A really FUN shooter, and surprisingly accurate.

 

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post-46820-0-53509800-1386453844_thumb.jpg

 

Saiga  .410K

Barrel length 330 mm.

 

 

1. Butt pad - Saiga 030
2. Pistol grip - CAA (with a cavity from cleaning kit )
3. Magazine - Prodiz with 7-8 rounds
4. Rifled barrel extention - Izhmash small (75 mm.)

Edited by vinni83
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I know things are a bit slow here in the 410 section, but I am curious about the conversion kits/parts available.  First off, I am very new to the Saiga shotgun world.  I only got my 410 in Feb. 2014.  That said, I'd like to hear opinions on the various conversions seen here as far as ease of installation and functionality.  I'm simply hoping to get some education in order to make a more informed choice when buying and installing a kit.  I really only have two requirements (wants): 1. adjustable stock (my wife and I both have pretty short arms), 2. comfortable pistol grip.  I don't need anything fancy or elaborate.  I have never done any kind of gun conversion like this, so I am pretty much a blank slate in the learning curve here.  I don't want to spend a lot of money and only need the conversion to make the 410 more manageable with the shorter stock and pistol grip as a home defense weapon.  I already have two 15-round magazines for it and have been through a good deal of break-in anxiety as some of you may have seen in the thread I started called, Is there a consensus on failure to eject problems?. ( http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/92992-is-there-a-consensus-on-failure-to-eject-problems/).  I found this  kit ( http://www.carolinashooterssupply.com/product_p/rifle-2-t6-5pc.htm ) on Carolina Shooters Supply web site and am comfortable with the pricing but likely need some guidance on the installation.  Share your wisdom with this newbie.

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Rebranding cool.png

 

 

Saiga .410K

Barrel length 330 mm.

 

post-46820-0-47195200-1431847523_thumb.jpg

 

 

1. Butt pad - Saiga 030
2. Pistol grip - FabDefens AGR-47

3. Magazine - Izhmash with 4 rounds (the best trouble-free).
4. Rifled barrel extention - Izhmash small (75 mm.).

 

Edited by vinni83
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