robfromga 39 Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 I can screw the adjuster all the way into 1. It bottoms 3/4 of the way between 2 and 1. Not wanting to over gas it, is 1, which is screwed out past 2 in my case actually 1? Link to post Share on other sites
Deadeye 325 Posted December 18, 2011 Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 screw it all the way in then back it out to the desired setting Link to post Share on other sites
LemonSlush 0 Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 If I hold the PIN down and screw the gas block down all the way it lands on 2. Should I not be tightning it all the way down? Link to post Share on other sites
PFerris 76 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Push the pin down, screw the gas block all the way in, when you back it out it will indent to TWO first, that is okay, it is just the way they are made. If you want it set on 1, push the pin in and back it out farther till it indents on 1. 1 is for high brass, 2 is for low brass, unless the low brass will cyle okay on 1. Always use 1 first, if it does not cyle right go to 2. Link to post Share on other sites
snakyjake 0 Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 If I understand correctly: The tightness of the plug doesn't control the gas. It is the plug's wedge the controls the gas. The notches are what determines the wedge and gas. There's only two choices, no matter how tight or loose the plug is. So tighten all the way down, then back out until you reach the desired notch. Interesting ways to remember: Try notch #1 1st. If doesn't cycle... Try notch #2 2nd. Jake Link to post Share on other sites
alicelases 0 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Gas regulator adjustment is necessary for using gas bottle.If you don't adjust regulator than its create some problems you have to maintain the every activity for related with your life. Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Mine had so much gloppy paint on the GB that I had to take a file to it to get the blind plug to go all the way down. Screwed in tight, it showed 2 threads. Link to post Share on other sites
igloogod 0 Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 If I understand correctly: The tightness of the plug doesn't control the gas. It is the plug's wedge the controls the gas. The notches are what determines the wedge and gas. There's only two choices, no matter how tight or loose the plug is. So tighten all the way down, then back out until you reach the desired notch. Interesting ways to remember: Try notch #1 1st. If doesn't cycle... Try notch #2 2nd. Jake Can someone validate Jake's understanding? I want to make sure that is true, because when I screen the plug all the way down and back it out, the first thing it lands on is #1, not #2 like user PCF said it would. So it doesn't matter how many time I loosen it to #2 it's still the same #2 pressure (vice/versa for #1) for the gas? Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted August 12, 2012 Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Screw the plug in all the way. Back it out to whatever the first setting is. It may be #1 or #2--depends on the individual gun's threadings. Whatever one it is, that is the correct position for that number. Back out a little more for the alternative setting. If the gun doesn't cycle on #2, change it to #1. Link to post Share on other sites
caboutin 0 Posted November 25, 2012 Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 To go from position 1 to position 2: turn clockwise or counter? To go from position 2 to position 1: turn clockwise or counter? Yes...I am a newb! Similar question to above- on my SAIGA 12Ga, when I screw the gas regulaor all the way in (clockwise) until it stops, its about 1/5 of a turn past the TWO (2) setting. So, the Two (2) setting is the most closed setting. I have to open up (turn counter clockwise) the gas regulator another half turn to get it to One (1). So- For heavy loads, do I put the gas regulator on One (1) or Two (2)??? Any info appeciated. Thanx. I just found this in another post- answers my question: This. Take the plug out and hold it up to the gun where it would screw in. The back of the plug is what restricts your airflow or allows full airflow. When the angle cut portion of the back of the plug is facing straight up towards the top of the gun your gas flow is restricted by the non cut portion facing straight down/blocking the gas ports and that is setting one for high brass. The slots on the front should be at an angle at this point with one of them in the lower left postion by the pin that locks it in place, that lower left slot should be marked one. Now spin the plug 180 degrees until the angle cut portion is facing straight down, this allows full airflow and is setting 2 for low brass. The slots on the front should be the same again with the opposite slot now in the lower left by the pin, this slot should be marked 2. Ok, I took the plug out and verified the angle cut portion on the back, I understand that now. Thanx. But when I screw it back in and bottom it out and turn it one click which should be position number one, it doesn't look like it is going to line up straight up and down based on what I saw the front of the plug look like when I had the plug out to verify straight up and down. Straight up and down is about 4 clicks. Should I set it by the clicks or what I know the position of the angled cut vents will be positioned at??? Link to post Share on other sites
Triggerhappy81 0 Posted November 26, 2012 Report Share Posted November 26, 2012 Ok....so my S12 has had No luck at all cycling any low brass wile set on one or two. I tried heavy dove loads thinking a little heavier may work for me but no luck. I ordered a "reliability kit" with an longer spring, a DPH 6 position gas plug and a new puck (i think the puck is ccs branded) Yet still it will not eject a low brass shell. The gun works fine with buck shot or Centurion multi-defence (love it!). I have noticed marking on spent some shells where the claw grabs the case above the brass. Im about out of ideas here so thanks for any help Link to post Share on other sites
Tripz 5 Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 On my Saiga if I twist it in all the way it locks at 2, so this means if I need to adjust to 1 then Im actually loosening it? Weird. Link to post Share on other sites
glenng4 0 Posted December 9, 2012 Report Share Posted December 9, 2012 I have the fine tunning gas regulator on my Saiga 12 . I can't get it to shoot low brass shells . I have the adjustment screwed all the way in and it's not enought the shell almost eject and the loaded shell almost enters the chamber. Any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites
evlblkwpnz 3,418 Posted December 19, 2012 Report Share Posted December 19, 2012 I have the fine tunning gas regulator on my Saiga 12 . I can't get it to shoot low brass shells . I have the adjustment screwed all the way in and it's not enought the shell almost eject and the loaded shell almost enters the chamber. Any suggestions? The regulator merely regulates the gas that is available from the ports in the barrel. If it is not cycling low base loads, you may need to enlarge or add ports to do so. I do not recommend any kind of low recoil or "extra lite" ammo. Your baseline low base ammo should be something like Winchester Universal, Remington Sport Load, or Federal Multi-Purpose. I prefer Winchester Universal because it doesn't foul the gas system as quickly as the others. It takes some work. Which gas regulator do you have? It sounds like you may have an Autoplug. If so, the weapon may need some refining before it cycles low base loads with it.Nothing wrong with the regulator. I have a few and they work fine, but the weapon has to be running great for the Autoplug to be advantageous. Link to post Share on other sites
barryj 0 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 What do those mysterious positions 1 and 2 mean? As you can see on the picture, there is a "STOP BUTTON" or "PIN" (or whatever else you would like to call it…) that you need to press "IN" (with a screw driver for example…) to turn the gas regulator. You might want to take the gas regulator out completely if you want to see how the system works – do not worry – you will not break anything!!! (it is only a problem if you loose the gas regulator itself!!! ) You will see that position 2 will have the gas channel fully opened and in position 1 the channel will be "almost" closed... The amount of gas released in position 2 will be a lot higher than in position 1. You may try setting the gas regulator in position 1 and fire some light loads – if it cycles normally without jamming – you can leave it on 1 forever! There is no way to tell weather it will cycle right or not – it depends on the gun itself, or actually on the diameter of the holes that IZHMASH has drilled in the barrel… Well, just try it!!! (As you can see, my S-12 on the right is always set to 1 as it cycles perfectly with both types of loads in this position… The one on the left sometimes jams the shell on the way out if I shoot bird-shot in position 1 so I change it depending on the type of ammo I use...) Warning!!! What you definitely DO NOT WANT TO DO is set it to position 2 and fire magnum loads (or slugs)!!! Surly, you can fire slugs in position 2!!! No problem at all, just a little more recoil it seems!!! The shells will definitely eject properly! After you fire about 20-50 rounds like that (even "low recoil" slugs) try to disassemble your gun – you will get the top cover off ok, but you will not be able to take the spring out because while you fired those rounds the slide hammered the hell out of the rear trunnion block! It will look like someone literally took the hammer to it!!! If there is a need for you to fire slugs in position 2 (like in 3-gun-match) I suggest you use the recoil buffer!!! I STONGLY suggest using the buffer in any case!!! It prolongs the life of your gun!!! This was great info. Link to post Share on other sites
dubya 198 Posted March 18, 2013 Report Share Posted March 18, 2013 If I hold the PIN down and screw the gas block down all the way it lands on 2. Should I not be tightning it all the way down? That's exactly how mine is and it's just fine Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfighter09 0 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 New to the forum. I purchased first saiga 12 been converted but every kind of load gets half ejected then they get lodged sideways . Any help would be greatly appreciated Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 New to the forum. I purchased first saiga 12 been converted but every kind of load gets half ejected then they get lodged sideways . Any help would be greatly appreciated Just about every question about cycling has already been answered in this thread. How many rounds through your S12 so far? What exact loads/brands did you try? Which gas setting(s) have you tried? Do you still use the stock gas regulator? Have you checked the patency and number of gas ports? Their size? Did you try firing the gun prior to converting it? Did it cycle at all beforehand? Do you 'limp wrist' the gun (not lock it up tightly against your shoulder)? Is the gun lubed up well? More specific answers might be available once this info is posted. Welcome to the forum and hope your predicament gets squared away. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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