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Makc

Gas Regulator Adjustment

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What do those mysterious positions 1 and 2 mean?

 

gas2.jpg

 

As you can see on the picture, there is a "STOP BUTTON" or "PIN" (or whatever else you would like to call it…) that you need to press "IN" (with a screw driver for example…) to turn the gas regulator.

 

gas1.jpg

 

You might want to take the gas regulator out completely if you want to see how the system works – do not worry – you will not break anything!!! (it is only a problem if you loose the gas regulator itself!!! :lolol: )

 

You will see that position 2 will have the gas channel fully opened and in position 1 the channel will be "almost" closed... The amount of gas released in position 2 will be a lot higher than in position 1. :smoke:

 

You may try setting the gas regulator in position 1 and fire some light loads – if it cycles normally without jamming – you can leave it on 1 forever!

 

There is no way to tell weather it will cycle right or not – it depends on the gun itself, or actually on the diameter of the holes that IZHMASH has drilled in the barrel… Well, just try it!!! (As you can see, my S-12 on the right is always set to 1 as it cycles perfectly with both types of loads in this position… The one on the left sometimes jams the shell on the way out if I shoot bird-shot in position 1 so I change it depending on the type of ammo I use...)

 

Warning!!!

 

What you definitely DO NOT WANT TO DO is set it to position 2 and fire magnum loads (or slugs)!!!

 

Surly, you can fire slugs in position 2!!! No problem at all, just a little more recoil it seems!!!

 

The shells will definitely eject properly! After you fire about 20-50 rounds like that (even "low recoil" slugs) try to disassemble your gun – you will get the top cover off ok, but you will not be able to take the spring out because while you fired those rounds the slide hammered the hell out of the rear trunnion block! It will look like someone literally took the hammer to it!!! :cryss:

 

If there is a need for you to fire slugs in position 2 (like in 3-gun-match) I suggest you use the recoil buffer!!!

 

I STONGLY suggest using the buffer in any case!!! It prolongs the life of your gun!!! :super:

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Buffers can cause short stroking. Be sure to test with all ammo for reliable feeding.

 

The new adjustable gas regulators, though more expensive, provide a better solution for reliable feeding and gas control.

 

CB3

Edited by CB3

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Buffers can cause short stroking. Be sure to test with all ammo for reliable feeding.

 

The new adjustable gas regulators, though more expensive, provide a better solution for reliable feeding and gas control.

 

CB3

 

Although I hate to argue with the boss, I also recommend against the buffer in an S-12.

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Note that the Boss' post dates from 2003. The Saiga community has come to learn that buffers in shotguns aren't so hot, but I think Max has a point: if you're in a match shooting a mix of low and high brass and don't have time to turn your gas knob, a buffer could reduce the damage.

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Buffers can cause short stroking. Be sure to test with all ammo for reliable feeding...

I agree with that, replacing the word can with could, but...

 

if you're in a match shooting a mix of low and high brass and don't have time to turn your gas knob, a buffer could reduce the damage.

I agree with this as well, but in my opinion, the word COULD should be replaced with WILL...

 

There is no question that you will have substantial damage to the weapon if you shoot slugs with gas regulator set to position 2. It will not be after 1 or 2 rounds, but if you shoot a box or two - you will see it.

 

Back in 2003, being a newbie, I have done that and then had to use the "dremil" on the rear trunnion to get the spring out... This is not a hypothetical theory!

 

I had the buffer in my gun ever since and never had any problems...

 

 

I do respect all the guys wth different views on this subject, however, they will not make me remove the buffers from my guns!

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What do those mysterious positions 1 and 2 mean?

 

gas2.jpg

 

As you can see on the picture, there is a "STOP BUTTON" or "PIN" (or whatever else you would like to call it…) that you need to press "IN" (with a screw driver for example…) to turn the gas regulator.

 

gas1.jpg

 

You might want to take the gas regulator out completely if you want to see how the system works – do not worry – you will not break anything!!! (it is only a problem if you loose the gas regulator itself!!! :lolol: )

 

You will see that position 2 will have the gas channel fully opened and in position 1 the channel will be "almost" closed... The amount of gas released in position 2 will be a lot higher than in position 1. :smoke:

 

You may try setting the gas regulator in position 1 and fire some light loads – if it cycles normally without jamming – you can leave it on 1 forever!

 

There is no way to tell weather it will cycle right or not – it depends on the gun itself, or actually on the diameter of the holes that IZHMASH has drilled in the barrel… Well, just try it!!! (As you can see, my S-12 on the right is always set to 1 as it cycles perfectly with both types of loads in this position… The one on the left sometimes jams the shell on the way out if I shoot bird-shot in position 1 so I change it depending on the type of ammo I use...)

 

Warning!!!

 

What you definitely DO NOT WANT TO DO is set it to position 2 and fire magnum loads (or slugs)!!!

 

Surly, you can fire slugs in position 2!!! No problem at all, just a little more recoil it seems!!!

 

The shells will definitely eject properly! After you fire about 20-50 rounds like that (even "low recoil" slugs) try to disassemble your gun – you will get the top cover off ok, but you will not be able to take the spring out because while you fired those rounds the slide hammered the hell out of the rear trunnion block! It will look like someone literally took the hammer to it!!! :cryss:

 

If there is a need for you to fire slugs in position 2 (like in 3-gun-match) I suggest you use the recoil buffer!!!

 

I STONGLY suggest using the buffer in any case!!! It prolongs the life of your gun!!! :super:

First, thanks for a great explanation. Let me see if I understand: 1=light load, because the gas port is mostly closed, minimal gas will escape, =minimal recoil. 2=heavy load, because the gas port is mostly open, maximal gas will escape, =heavy recoil.

 

Now, the question is this: I have remington slugs, 12 gauge, 2.75", 1 oz, rifled, and in 1560 velocity, FPS. What setting should I use, 1 or 2?

 

Thanks.

 

John Martin.

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First, thanks for a great explanation. Let me see if I understand: 1=light load, because the gas port is mostly closed, minimal gas will escape, =minimal recoil. 2=heavy load, because the gas port is mostly open, maximal gas will escape, =heavy recoil.

 

Now, the question is this: I have remington slugs, 12 gauge, 2.75", 1 oz, rifled, and in 1560 velocity, FPS. What setting should I use, 1 or 2?

 

Thanks.

 

John Martin.

 

Actually I believe that is backwards but correct me if I am wrong. :blues:

1 is for Magnum loads because the port is mostly closed and will help prevent the bolt from getting slammed back.

2 is for Light Loads as the port is more open. Since the light loads will required more gas to cycle the bolt.

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Actually I believe that is backwards but correct me if I am wrong. :blues:

1 is for Magnum loads because the port is mostly closed and will help prevent the bolt from getting slammed back.

2 is for Light Loads as the port is more open. Since the light loads will required more gas to cycle the bolt.

 

This is correct. SETTING TWO IS TWICE THE GAS.

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To over-simplify it, whether it's the factory plug or Gunfixer's plug, I remember it like this:

 

The smaller the number, the smaller amount of gas you are letting through.

The bigger the number, the bigger amount of gas you are letting through.

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And if it doesn't eject on target lows on 2 can you wind it out a screw or two and let more gas in? Also why is there something cluncking around in my gas tube? Is that normal?

 

THX

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And if it doesn't eject on target lows on 2 can you wind it out a screw or two and let more gas in? Also why is there something cluncking around in my gas tube? Is that normal?

 

THX

If no ejection on 2, go to 1, a half rotation in whatever direction to get there so you're not unscrewing in or out any further than necessary. That clunking in the gas tube is the gas piston (puck) sliding as it should.

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Just a little advice to some of you...

 

If you have a "magnum" load, don't assume that it will automatically cycle the action without trying it. In my S-410, shooting the brown bear #4 buck 3"ers it won't cycle in the #1 gas position. I'm glad I tested it out as I got those for my pops as a HD round and would have felt bad if he missed the first shot and it didn't cycle... :ded:

 

The ammo is great, makes cantelopes explode... It could be the ammo, or it could be drunk Russians (I'm Irish, so :P) drilling the holes out wrong, who knows....

 

But anyways, what I'm trying to say is field test your ammo and make sure it cycles... its the only real way to know.

 

Edit: just some grammar...

 

PS: Remington #6 birdshot cycles fine on #1, like I said, field test your shit or you may be losing your shit...

Edited by ThirtyAughtSix

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Newbie here. Just got my 12 and am headed to the range tomorrow/today. I will be shooting buck shot2 3/4 rem 00 and 7 1/2 federal. My question is, is the buckshot considered a magnum load. It is express rem buckshot. I understand the 1-2 settings and will start on no.1 setting. My gas setting is on 2 out of the box. Should I turn it clock wise or counter clock wise based on looking straight at it.

Thanks

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Newbie here. Just got my 12 and am headed to the range tomorrow/today. I will be shooting buck shot2 3/4 rem 00 and 7 1/2 federal. My question is, is the buckshot considered a magnum load. It is express rem buckshot. I understand the 1-2 settings and will start on no.1 setting. My gas setting is on 2 out of the box. Should I turn it clock wise or counter clock wise based on looking straight at it.

Thanks

Read post #17 above carefully.

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So, is buckshot 2 3/4 considered magnum? Position 1 or 2 ? Thanks!

 

From my limited knowledge, buckshot and slugs should be position 1. I am actually shooting my brand new Saiga 12 this evening. I'm hoping that 2.75 inch 00 Buck Federal LE 13200 (my home defense load) shells cycle on setting 1. They are only 1145 FPS, so we'll see.

 

ETA - The Federal LE 13200 wouldn't cycle on setting 1. Setting 2 did the trick. I ran Remington Slugger, Express Buckshot and Centurion Buck and Ball on 1 and they all cycled fine. All in all 126 shells down the pipe.

Edited by bigpatvoodoodad

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Probably, but I haven't heard of Centurion. I assume it is buckshot in which case you should have it on setting 1- the more limited setting. Too much gas (setting 2) will throw back your bolt with enough force to cause damage. Unfortunately the operators manual Izhmash sends is a poor guide. The short photo guide given at the start of this thread is excellent and is dead on. Learn it. Use it.

 

 

Will the centurion buck and ball hurt the gun on no. 2?

Edited by jmdove

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Probably, but I haven't heard of Centurion. I assume it is buckshot in which case you should have it on setting 1- the more limited setting. Too much gas (setting 2) will throw back your bolt with enough force to cause damage. Unfortunately the operators manual Izhmash sends is a poor guide. The short photo guide given at the start of this thread is excellent and is dead on. Learn it. Use it.

 

 

Will the centurion buck and ball hurt the gun on no. 2?

 

i have posted this elsewhere also, but after dismanteling the rifle, how do you know you have put the adjuster back properly for the positions to be correct? many thanks

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Probably, but I haven't heard of Centurion. I assume it is buckshot in which case you should have it on setting 1- the more limited setting. Too much gas (setting 2) will throw back your bolt with enough force to cause damage. Unfortunately the operators manual Izhmash sends is a poor guide. The short photo guide given at the start of this thread is excellent and is dead on. Learn it. Use it.

 

 

Will the centurion buck and ball hurt the gun on no. 2?

 

i have posted this elsewhere also, but after dismanteling the rifle, how do you know you have put the adjuster back properly for the positions to be correct? many thanks

Please try not to post the same question in multiple threads. Thanks.

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I'm new to this board, and to Saiga-12 shotguns. The first time I took my gun out I was using my 7 1/2 trap shooting loads, well, that would not cycle the gun at all. I had to do it by hand.

 

Found out that I should have turned the adjustment from #1 to #2. Someone also told me to run some buckshot through it first though on position #1 since it was a brand new gun. I did that. First shell sorta came-out, was just hanging there. Second shell ejected with no problem. Next 4 flew right out. Loaded the magazine and ran a total of 20 buck shot shells through it, perfect!

 

I then tried the light loads again. Some ejected, some hung there. Put it on position #2 and they all ejected with no problem. Ran a total of 25 rounds of target load through it, no more problems.

 

The only modification I made to the gun was the MD Arms aluminum gas puck (or whatever you call it), that piece came with the gun.

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To go from position 1 to position 2: turn clockwise or counter?

 

To go from position 2 to position 1: turn clockwise or counter?

 

Yes...I am a newb!

 

Similar question to above- on my SAIGA 12Ga, when I screw the gas regulaor all the way in (clockwise) until it stops, its about 1/5 of a turn past the TWO (2) setting. So, the Two (2) setting is the most closed setting. I have to open up (turn counter clockwise) the gas regulator another half turn to get it to One (1).

 

So- For heavy loads, do I put the gas regulator on One (1) or Two (2)???

 

Any info appeciated. Thanx.

 

I just found this in another post- answers my question:

 

This. Take the plug out and hold it up to the gun where it would screw in. The back of the plug is what restricts your airflow or allows full airflow. When the angle cut portion of the back of the plug is facing straight up towards the top of the gun your gas flow is restricted by the non cut portion facing straight down/blocking the gas ports and that is setting one for high brass. The slots on the front should be at an angle at this point with one of them in the lower left postion by the pin that locks it in place, that lower left slot should be marked one. Now spin the plug 180 degrees until the angle cut portion is facing straight down, this allows full airflow and is setting 2 for low brass. The slots on the front should be the same again with the opposite slot now in the lower left by the pin, this slot should be marked 2.

Edited by Jefe73

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Has anyone used the MD Arms V Plug? I have just purchased a Saiga 12 19 inch. It seems to make no difference on the factory gas plug setting regarding cycling when shooting some inexpensive Winchester 2 3/4 7 1/2 shot shells to see how the shotgun works. And it would not eject the spent shells on either setting. I did shoot some high brass shells and had no problems with cycling but do not remember what the setting was on. Do you think the MD Arms V plug will allow full cycling with the Winchester ammo?

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