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Tromix - Bayonet Lug set-up


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All of the lugs are machined, 10ea of the them. I will make the loops and TiG them up. Then they will be refinished and ready to go. I will refinish them at the same time I do the other 10ea shorty guns, so you are still looking at 2 weeks before they are ready to go. Hang in there guys, I will get it done.

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Come on man, don't call me out on that one................   When people only own a few firearms, like under 30 or so, they have never really tried a large selection, so what ever they own is the "b

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These will be ready to ship tomorrow. I only have 10ea of them, and probably won't run another batch for a couple of months. $39ea shipped.

 

It seems like a rather simple piece, but they take a hell of a lot more time than I thought initially. I changed the design so the set screw comes up through the bottom of the lug, so you can't see it when it is installed.

 

I take paypal at TonyR@Tromix.com

 

Or you can send an MO or personal check to:

Tromix, 405 N. Walnut Ave #8, Broken Arrow, OK 74012

I can also take a credit card, call me at 918 251-5640 M-F 9-5 Central Time.

 

 

 

Tony Rumore

Tromix Corp

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Edited by TonyRumore
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Got mine too!

 

Thanks a bunch Tony.

 

I just picked-up the bayonet at the gun show yesterday and the handguard fits perfectly over the choke tubes. It's going to look so cool, anti-gunners will wet themselves when they see it in my trucks gun rack. :haha:

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As of this minute, there are still 2ea left for sale. Yes, you have to open up the hoop on the bayonet itself to get it to fit over the Saiga barrel, but you only need to take off about .003" and it will go right on. Just a few quick spins around the hoop with a dremel wheel or you could hand file it with a rat tail in about 2 minutes.

 

The Tromix bayo lugs are the same type and dimensions as the original Colt units, so the fit of the knife on the lug is the same. It is a little loose, but that is the way the factory Colt M16 bayo's fit. If you leave the hoop on the bayonet a bit small, you can probably tighten up the play even better than a factory M16 setup.

 

A dimple in the barrel for the set screw is probably not a bad idea, but for the strongest hold, I would use red locktite on the lug hoop, and that baby will be glued on there for life.

Edited by TonyRumore
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how sturdy is this set up? dont you have to reem out the bayonet for it to fit the saiga barrel?

yeah, the finish (seems to me) on the barrel makes it a cunt hair too big for the standard m-16 bayonet ring...

 

as far as sturdiness, the set screw itself won't make it sturdy enough for combat. it will come loose so that's why i'm making the dimple, to give it a little more of a solid grip on the barrel.

 

this comes from the experience we had with the ww1 trench guns. the bayonet sleeve would come loose after hard use and would basically slide up and down the barrel or spin around. what they did was to gouge a couple of grooves under the barrel so when you put the screws into the sleeve it would set in the grooves and was rock solid.

 

guess you could also weld the ring on...

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WOuldnt welding to the middle of the barrel potentially cause the metal to get ... umm... weird??

 

I am not a metalsmith, nor a welder... I just think welding the middle of a gun barrel isnt a good thing... PLEASE... set me straight if I am wrong..

 

 

:smoke:

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A small TiG type spot weld is not going to hurt anything on the barrel, but if you were to weld a big bead all the way around the barrel, you would end up with a "choke" or tight spot right there. When the metal cools it shrinks and will pull the tube together at that point. If you were to lay a bead half-way around the barrel, then when it cooled it would warp the barrel toward the welded side.

 

It is possible to straighten a warped barrel, by heating the opposite side and then quenching it to help shrink the off-side and pull the barrel over straight again. This my friends, is an art, and not something everyone should try on their own.

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yehp, metalurgy is exactly that tony...and its hard to learn more than the basics of it, due to the guys that are knowledgeable in it being so quiet about it. kinda like a guild almost. masons are pretty hush hush about some of the more complicated things, such as unsupported archways and other things. that is why so few know what they are really doing, and its always great to see someone that isnt afraid to explain the concepts to the unknowledgeable. yer awesome tony...

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question. red loctie. wouldnt you want to remove the enamel when you join the lug to the barrel? the joint would only be as strong as the enamel's grip to the metal I would think, no? I mean, its not like its parkerised or blued metal. its paint. I would imagine that if one were to use the bayonet, oh, on the range, to "store" your gun in the ground when you walk downrange, it could break the joint, no?

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Bvamp, are you doubting our friends at Izhmash and their ability to bond paint to steel? It's Russian paint and that's a whole hell of a lot of surface area to come ripping off of the steel....you almost have to TRY to chip the paint in the first place!

 

As for me, I think I'll try the dimple + red loctite method, then stick it in the dirt when I walk downrange with a big fat 'ol smile on my face :super:

 

Speaking of the filing/grinding out of the bayonet hoop...I was thinking of going just a tad bit larger than I have to so that I can rubber dip the ring and thus avoid any nasty surface marring. Anyone have suggestions as to a brand of rubber dip or any special techniques? I've only read the cans and never really used it...

 

Oh, and did I mention how frigging happy I am that I got one before they were all gone? The mere thought of it has me drooling. My buddy has a mossberg combat shotgun with bayo lug (that I bought for him as a b-day/x-mas present) and that thing is friggin' mean as hell with the knife on the end...that was part of my inspiration to get one.

 

Thanx Tony, I'm psyched that I could get one.

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OK, Bvamp, maybe I overestimated the group here, but of course you would always rough up the surface of the metal when using a bonding agent of any type. I know everyone thinks the Saiga is some sort of god like weapon, but the truth is the finish is very similar to Bar-B-Que paint, albeit poorly applied.

 

I can't tell you guys enough times, when you have a slip fit of steel parts together, with red lock tite in between, that MF'er will never come apart, trust me.

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Come on man, don't call me out on that one................

 

When people only own a few firearms, like under 30 or so, they have never really tried a large selection, so what ever they own is the "best" in their mind. You never want to tell a guy their gun is a POS, that's just not cool....it's like telling your woman that those pants make her look fat.

 

The Saiga has some great features, but there are a lot of things about it that don't rival a nice production piece like a 70's Pasedena AutoMag.

 

I enjoy all guns, "junkers" or not, but I do have a problem with those individuals that feel whatever they happen to own is the best, and feel that your stuff is junk. After you have owned several hundred guns from muzzle loaders to belt fed machine guns, you start to understand that there are really no junk guns.

 

Some just need more work than others...............

 

Tony Rumore

Tromix Corp

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When people only own a few firearms, like under 30 or so, they have never really tried a large selection, so what ever they own is the "best" in their mind. You never want to tell a guy their gun is a POS, that's just not cool....it's like telling your woman that those pants make her look fat.

 

Tony Rumore

Tromix Corp

that, my friends is the definition of a class act.

 

i was just in a gun store yesterday sending off an FFL for a Saiga .308 and was talking guns with the owner. I asked why he didn't have any "Brand X' (type omitted as not to hi-jack the thread). He said, "i won't have any of those guns in my shop and you better never transfer one here". He went on a little more, but you get the idea.

 

i have a helluva lot more experience with a variety of firearms than any dealer. I know which guns are sleepers and which are under rated. it drives me nuts when someone needs to feel superior so they close their mind to other options.

 

Thanks for hanging out here, tony.

 

Caspian

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hey i like the saigas. they are well made, and affordable, and for me a cheap gun is a better gun. why have one when you can have three is my theory? :)

 

what did my buddy say.....well....he is a machinist first off. you know how machinists are here with thier .0001" tolerances....he thought it was definately a cool gun as well as liked the price. but his remark was about the finish toolwork on it. he said there wasnt a reason for it, other than amatures cranked em out in the thousands an hour. if you look at the gun, it DOES have a shitload of tool marks on it, and I bet yours is crooked a little bit like mine is. hell, the barrel isnt even respun smooth. thats how they keep the cost down though, so I dont have any complaints. plus its an AKM. what do you want?

 

like i said, id rather buy three guns instead of one ANY day of the week. I do wonder how much more they charge you for a gun without all he tool marks on it though....its probably double or even triple the price they are now.

 

oh yeh, he bought one a week later :) tool marks and all.....very cool gun, and it speaks for itself even with the non-gun folk that Ive showed it to like him.

 

as a side note, although I may not have worked on them all, I would guess Ive shot maybe 400 guns in my short lifetime. I agree with you guys...they are all good. in fact, the more expensive guns out there usually dont impress me at all. Ive shot guns worth 6k and guns worth 50 bucks. Ill take the cheap guns, thanks...

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Machenery needs to be appreciated for what it is. Saiga's are not designed to be pretty. They are made to be inexpensive and easy to manufacture, and to function reliably in extreme conditions. (combat weapon) This is what makes them FUN!

There is also a place for $25,000 hand made shotguns that are works of art in themselves. One woulden't arrive at the club for a sporting clays invitational with a $250 shotgun- if word of such a thing got out the dealer would NEVER let you take delivery of your new Bently, and you might have to hide your shame driving last years model!

Personally I drive my '85 dodge van to the drainage ditch and shoot my S-12 WITH PRIDE! :wub::wub::super::super::lolol::lolol::lolol:

 

G O B

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GOB: well Izhmash should sponser a good shooter then. I would LOVE to see it on the news....and you know it would make it there...."man wins world skeet championship with 300 dollar shotgun from russia"

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Hey, I resemble that remark about machinists :haha:

 

I never had a urge to get an AK until I got the Saiga for a decent price. I never even liked AR's with their aluminum receivers until this past year, much less stamped steel. Now that I have both, I can start to appreciate them for their purpose and manufacturing method. Once nice thing with machined receiver tho, it's a lot easier to get dimensions, this file, fit, file, fit thing just rubs me the wrong way LOL :lolol: You should just be able to cut it and forget it.

 

 

Nice looking bayo lug Tony. Would the M7 bayo fit over johnnymceldoo's flash hider by any chance?

Edited by wintermute76
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Wondering two things.

 

1. Would it be possible to get just the lug, no hoop, to silver-solder directly to the barrel? Any cautions about that? Price?

 

2. For those who have a flash hider and a bayo laying around... if I had a permanently attached flash hider like Johnny's, would there be enough meat in the bayo hoop to slide it over a hider?

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