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skifast

Newbie Planning to convert a 308

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I am planning on buying a Saiga 308 and converting it. I have read through the posts here and on other sites. The following are my thoughts at this point and I would appreciate your feedback:

 

1. Stock--my thought is to go with a collapsible Tapco. I read a thread about the VTOR EMOD stock. It looked nice, but from what I have been able to find is quite a bit more expensive. I am questioning whether it is worth the extra money. Also are modifications necessary and if yes are they difficult to mount another stock?

 

2. Pistol Grip--I am thinking about the Command Arms UPG47. I understand that I will need to buy a nut separately. I also understand that the receiver may or may not have the knockout.

 

3. Trigger Group--I am thinking the TAPCO G2 is the way to go, either from Dinzag or Tromix. When the term drop in is used, is the group actually that easy to install?

 

4. Receiver mods--The trigger opening needs to be moved forward. Does this usually entail cutting the receiver or is the opening already there? Do you do anything to the mag release lever? In the online explanation at cross-conn, he is converting a 7.6 x 39. I think I read that you do not drill out some pins. Not sure though, please clarify.

 

5. Bolt Hold Open Lever--Not sure what this refers to?

 

6. Bullet Guide-- None is necessary for the 308, right?

 

7. Foreend--I like what Xjedix did. I am going to cut some slots and trim it down. I also am going to add a rail to the bottom and Command Arms Folding Vertical Grip, part FFG2.

 

8. Flash/Comp--The gun I am buying has a 16 inch barrel. If I am correct, I can weld the suppressor/comp on the barrel after cutting the barrel down by the length of the suppressor. My thought is to go with a M60 suppressor. Should I be looking at a compensator instead? Is cutting the barrel down difficult?

 

 

9. Any reason to replace the piston or tube?

 

10. What is the best route to take with magazines?

 

This gun is going to be my when the crap hits the fan gun. I have a shotgun and pistol for home defense. I generally try to get the most bang for the buck, rather than the absolute best. I have done quite a bit of wood working and auto mechanics, so the project is not to intimidating. I also have the tools necessary.

 

Thanks for your help,

Mark

Edited by skifast

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1. No personal experience/your personal preference

2. see above

3. Yes, very easy. Hardest part is working inside the receiver. A pair of needle nose pliers pretty much solves that.

4. The two pins that hold a trigger linkage, just above the original trigger on a Saiga x39 are not present on the .308. It has the weird swept back trigger. Forward/AK trigger opening is under the plate on bottom of the receiver. Pistol grip nut cutout may or may not need to be cut by you.

5. It's the lever that allows you to lock the action open.

6. right

7. not a question :P

8. I don't have any experience with that

9. Piston is a compliance part, probably would need to be fitted for the .308. Not necessary unless you need more compliance parts. Replace the gas tube with one with upper handguard brackets if you choose to use regular AK front handguards. Needs to be fitted, or bought from Dinzag fitted by him.

10. FBMG and Surefire are the most commonly used aftermarket .308 mags for Saiga's. I am still using the factory 8 rounder, but I am going to order some FBMG 20 rounders shortly.

 

Good luck, I bet you'll enjoy the process *almost* as much as the finished product if you are anything like me, and apparently others here.

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Here is what I can offer, for what it's worth:

 

1. Stock choice is ultimately a matter of personal preference. I would prefer an ACE stock to a Tapco for a .308, but it would be more costly.

2. My receiver did have the PG hole pre-cut. Aside from getting one you like, the main consideration with a PG is 922r compliance. You need to know where the PG was made. I would generally go with a US made PG.

3. For a .308, I would definitely go with Dinzag's FCG which is modified specifically for a PG conversion .308. To my knowledge, Dinzag's .308 FCG is the ONLY one that addresses ALL of the FCG issues peculiar to the Saiga .308. Go to the .308 FCG section of Dinzag's website. He clearly notes all the modifications he makes. His .308 FCGs are well worth the money in my opinion. Dinzag's FCGs are "drop-in" in the sense that all you have to do is install them. No additional machining is needed.

4. With the Saiga .308, NO PINS NEED TO BE DRILLED. Simply remove the retaining wire and push the pins out. Then you can remove the factory FCG components.

5. The bolt hold-open lever is for the manual bolt hold-open feature. It is located on the right-hand side of the gun. I think it is a good idea to retain it.

6. No bullet guide is needed for the Saiga .308. The magazines are all made to perform that function.

7. I would look into having Dinzag or someone else you trust professionally modifying the handguard, but that's just my opinion.

8. Using a flash suppressor or compensator is up to you. I would note that what you are talking about would add considerable complication and difficulty to your project. Personally, I don't think it would be worth it.

9. There is no reason to replace the gas piston unless you need to for 922r compliance purposes. Most people don't. There is no need to replace the gas tube unless you want to use a regular AK-style handguard arrangement. Then you would need a gas tube with an upper handguard retainer. You would also need a lower handguard retainer. Dinzag can take care of providing all of that for you if you want to go that route.

10. The factory 8 rnd. mags seem to function the best. Otherwise, you can choose from FBMG or Surefiregunmags high-capacity mags. Both seem to work well, but some people have had problems with the 25-round Surefires. Sticking to 20-round mags. may be the best idea for high-capacity mags.

 

Converting a Saiga .308 is EASY if you do your "homework" first and work carefully. Using an inexpensive gun vise (or an expensive one if you prefer) REALLY helps. It holds the gun for you, thus freeing up your hands to actually work on the gun.

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