xjedix 6 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 (edited) I just finished my first .308 conversion today. I must say that while it is a very intimidating project, I was able to complete it easily with the most basic of tools. The entire conversion took about 2- 2 1/2 hours. The fire control group used was a Dinzag kit and was very well labeled and was a direct drop in kit, no modification needed at all. I highly suggest spending the extra money on a Dinzag kit. I would say the most difficult part about the conversion besides sweating my ass off in this Arizona heat was installing the new FCG. It was a direct drop in but seemed like I needed 3 hands to do it. I reinstalled the stock shepherds crook but I would suggest getting a retaining plate to make it a bit easier. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, I am currently in the middle of a .308 conversion and I figured I would take pictures along the way to help others out. Stock Saiga .308 I started with the basic field strip of the rifle then moved on to the fire control group. It was a little tricky to figure out the retaining spring but after that the FCG was a breeze. The FCG ended up taking about 10 minutes to completely remove. After disassembly I prepped the rifle for the removal of the trigger guard and trigger plate. I used the corner of a paper towel to plug the barrel and gas block from and metal shavings ect. I then wrapped the barrel with a towel and taped it on along with a few layers of tape on either side of the receiver. I also taped up the trigger gurad and mag release where I will be filling. I then proceeded to use a hand file to file both rivets flush with the trigger plate. I used a small punch to knock out the two rivets. I then attempted to drill out the spot weld but found that my drill bits are worthless as they would not remove any material. I decided to press the "easy button" on this spot weld and just use a small flat head screw driver and a hammer to break the weld. At this point I need to remove the two spot welds left under the trigger guard. I am stuck because my drill bits are worthless and I do not want to just start prying on the trigger plate and have the welds break holes in the receiver. I am going to see if I can get it on a drill press or get better drill bits and drill out the spot welds then pry off the trigger plate. So far I have about an hour into the project with the most basic of tools. I will post updates as I get them done. -Derek Edited June 15, 2008 by xjedix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xjedix 6 Posted June 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 (edited) Day 2 of Saiga .308 conversion I started where I left off last night with the 2 spot welds under the trigger guard. I ended up just grinding them flush with a normal bench grinder and used a flat head screw driver to pry the plate off breaking what was left of the welds. I used a normal hand file to flush up what was left of the spot welds on the bottom of the receiver. Next I took the stock trigger guard and bent it up using a couple of adjustable wrenches. I kept test fitting it until I got the shape I was looking for. Next I put the freshly bent trigger guard in place and marked and cut the hole for it. The next step was to cut a hole for the pistol grip nut. I measured it out and cut the hole using a simple hand file. I continued to test fit the nut during the process to make sure the hole was just big enough to work. After that all the metal work was finished. I then installed the new fire control group and assembled the rest of the rifle. Thats it your done!!! Here is the finished product: Edited June 15, 2008 by xjedix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xjedix 6 Posted June 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Reserved for updates Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullgatti 0 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 good luck man im not comfortable enough to do that im a car guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G-ray 0 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 I used a carbide burr in a die grinder to grind those spotwelds real thin and pried up on the plate and it popped right off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xjedix 6 Posted June 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 (edited) Ya I actually got the trigger plate off just a few minutes ago. I went at it with the grinder then used a screw driver to pry the plate off. I made it nice and flush with a hand file. I will post up some pictures tomorrow. At this point I need to figure out how I want to refinish it. I have read great things about Gunkote but am not sure about baking it. Can it be baked in a normal kitchen oven or will it stink up my oven/house?? What are you guys using to refinish your conversions?? -Derek Edited June 14, 2008 by xjedix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
waffles 0 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 hey xjedix! awesome little pic tutorial you got going. looks like you are doing great so far. i hope to finish mine today. I am at the point where i need to take off the trigger plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Squib 0 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Ya I actually got the trigger plate off just a few minutes ago. I went at it with the grinder then used a screw driver to pry the plate off. I made it nice and flush with a hand file. I will post up some pictures tomorrow. At this point I need to figure out how I want to refinish it. I have read great things about Gunkote but am not sure about baking it. Can it be baked in a normal kitchen oven or will it stink up my oven/house?? What are you guys using to refinish your conversions?? -Derek I used black B-B-Q grill spray paint. Works and looks fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanSacto 1 Posted June 14, 2008 Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 "I decided to press the "easy button" on this spot weld and just use a small flat head screw driver and a hammer to break the weld." - Derek So does this mean you just stuck your screwdriver in between the trigger guard plate and the receiver and hammered the weld? Will that work in a worst case scenario? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullgatti 0 Posted June 15, 2008 Report Share Posted June 15, 2008 Congratulations you are officially hip fire certified Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philthommes 0 Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 where did you get the stock? what brand is it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xjedix 6 Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 where did you get the stock? what brand is it? Its just a Kvar stock in WASR length. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philthommes 0 Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 any tips for removing the fcg retaining pins? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xjedix 6 Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 any tips for removing the fcg retaining pins? I used a dental pick to pull up on the front part of the retaining spring and pulled the hammer pin out first. Then I used the pick to scoot the spring off the trigger pin and pushed that out. Both of the FCG pins should come out by hand once the retaining spring is out of the groove. Good luck, -Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
philthommes 0 Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 any tips for removing the fcg retaining pins? I used a dental pick to pull up on the front part of the retaining spring and pulled the hammer pin out first. Then I used the pick to scoot the spring off the trigger pin and pushed that out. Both of the FCG pins should come out by hand once the retaining spring is out of the groove. Good luck, -Derek thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
engbob 0 Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 +1 on the dental picks. I got a 4 piece set at my local Pep-Boys on sale for like $5. Definitely worth it, they've come in handy on more than one occasion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trippyl 0 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 I just wanted to add my thanks for this thread, it really helped above the existing details out there on the 308 conversion. This weekend I just converted my saiga 308-1, using an ACE fixed skeleton stock (I live in the soviet state of NJ where folders are not allowed), red star arms trigger group, SAW grip. All I can say is it's it's lovely, posted below, posing with my kimber gold match (the two guns like each other). Thanks again for this invaluable thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mitch'SS 2 Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Were did you pick up the forearm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trippyl 0 Posted February 25, 2009 Report Share Posted February 25, 2009 Oh, I was actually born with it, I have two of them.... Loll just kidding I couldn't resist. Mine is the stock forearm, unmodified. You must be referring to the guy who started the thread? If so, I've looked and looked and have not seen anything like it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oxyehho 8 Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Oh, I was actually born with it, I have two of them.... Loll just kidding I couldn't resist. Mine is the stock forearm, unmodified. You must be referring to the guy who started the thread? If so, I've looked and looked and have not seen anything like it. Looks like a stock one that's been vented and rail was bolted on to the bottom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xjedix 6 Posted March 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Were did you pick up the forearm? Yep, it's just a modified factory forearm. I have an extra one laying around here if your interested. -Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
deadduck357 0 Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 how did you attach the forward part of the trigger guard to the reciever ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trippyl 0 Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 I didn't attach the front of the trigger guard, just attached it on the other end and left this end "hangin" after sliding it into the mag release. The trigger gaurd is really solid, rock solid, I see absolutely no reason why you'd need to explicitly attach the front of the trigger guard, just sliding it into the mag release is more than enough. And I had intended to attach the front of it, but once I got it together it was obvious that this was not needed. There is no play whatsoever. FYI, I have now fired about 150 rounds though my converted Saiga, and all I can say is OMG!!! Ok, I'll say a bit more. It's lovely. It's a new rifle. Because of the better trigger, better positioning of the grip, and the added red dot sight, I'm more accurate with the rifle. It is a sheer pleasure to fire off round after round of 308, whereas prior to the conversion, firing it was somewhat painful with the trigger slap, and the inconsistent trigger caused me difficulty in being accurate. With the stock trigger, trying as hard as I could, I was able to manage about 1.5" groups at about 25yds (I don't have a very long range nearby). Post conversion, I got it down to 1" without even trying. I know with some effort I could get groups down to one ragged hole at 25 yds. My first time firing it post conversion, I went through 4 boxes of 7.62 (range was out of hornady tap in 308 which is my favorite, thanks Obama) in about 30 minutes and felt like I was just getting started. Truly wonderful! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jfeenin 0 Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 I have an rather naive question regarding the stock post conversion. Once converted can it now take a standard AK stock without converting the stock or are there modifications that need to be made there too? I have a 22in 308 version and I was thinking of putting a Draganov style stock on it but all the really decent looking ones are for AK's. Not to mention the extended trigger and it's odd angle of pull feels extra strange with a vertical type grip compared to the std sporting stock that came on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CPF 80 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Do you still have the skeleton stock that your 308 came with? If so, I'd be willing to purchase it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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