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SO... is it REALLY non-reloadable?


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Ok, so I just bought some Barnaul .308 ammo from sportsman's guide... They got some for like .38 cents a round...

 

Its the same price as the wolf... although it is BOXER primed... STEEL CASED... and "non reloadable"

 

What would make it NON RELOADABLE? I hear that people are reloading STEEL cased ammo... at LEAST once... what would make THIS non reloadable? Other than its a STEEL cased ammo?

 

Boxer primed is the standard... Supposedly, common consensus has it that steel for casings is as soft as brass is...

 

So what say you reloading folks... Will it reload or not? ( at least once...)

 

 

:smoke:

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I heard that the steel becomes weak after being shot. its not soft like brass and nickel. I wouldn't, it could split or you could loose the neck in the barrel and not know until the next shot. then it would blow up. just my .02cents. :cryss:

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We had a thread going on this a little while back, I thought. Anyway, I've reloaded about 300-400 Wolf steel .223 cases, about 100-200 of them twice. I tried a couple of the Barnaul zinc cases and they were Berdan primed.

 

The cases have to be lubed the same as brass, and they do take more pressure on the handle to get sized. I was having about 5% or so cases cracking in the neck, so I don't mess with them anymore. But to give credit, many seemed to be larger, having been fired in a larger chamber. This was possible as I was just picking them up at the range, not all of them were fired by me.

Also, the ones I loaded were the newer polymer coated cases, although I had a handful of the lacquered cases.

 

I got about 300 or so rounds laying around loaded for rainy match days.

 

Nothing worse than trying to get rain and mud out of rifle cases.

 

Other than that, I don't bother with them anymore.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Never done any rifle ammo from steel cases, but I've reloaded steel 9mm and .40 cases, some of which I've tried 2 reloads with already with no cracking or unusual deformation. The .40 is a relatively high-pressure load, but the case walls have still maintained their thickness and not given me any trouble. I wouldn't hazard another reload on any of those, but I'm pretty impressed with how they've held up.

 

I have been reading some discussion on Arfcom about reloading steel and there's a few there that have reloaded the Wolf .223's without any trouble. If it was me, I'd just check them carefully, start low, then just use them once for plinker rounds and toss them into the recycle bin.

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Try it and see. I have reloaded some of the steel case .45ACP. They tends to crack after a couple of times through a SMG.

Even Berdan primed cases can be reloaded. It take a different decapping pin and Berdan primers are hard to find.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, it IS boxer primed Barnaul .308 ammo... steel cased.

 

All I wanted was ONE reload out of it... for plinking ammo...

 

Just didnt know if it would fuck up the dies or not... That was the real question, I guess...

 

 

:smoke:

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I reload Wolf .223 and 45acp all the time. Keep the loads light and the steel cases hold up well, esp the 45acp. Up to 12 reloads on those. Have gotten as many as 7 reloads with the .223, then about half of the necks split. Would like to try 308 steel, but did not trust Wolf .308. Have not seen any effects on the reloading dies at all, after about 1K reloaded .223.

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'IndyArms',

 

I don't know what kind of equipment you have (dies, press, etc.).

If I still had my Dillon 650 there are a few things that would keep me from reloading it.

primed cases, but lets just say you must have patience that surpasses "Job".

 

-Number 1, the primers may be crimped in place. Ah, yes, the old crimped military primer. This is to avoid primers backing out during recoil, etc. but it also means that when you punch out the primer you must "re-condition" the primer hole. This means "de-swaging" (I think that is right) the crimped primer. It means taking the crimp out of the primer hole, leaving it round again, and ready to accept another primer.

 

RCBS makes a very nice tool for this, but be prepared to spend some extra time on this too. Once you do it, you don't have to do it again, but since you are using steel that is a non-issue.

There is no-way to get around the crimped primer.

 

-Number 2- If you are using top dollar equipment like RCBS,Dillon, you can get by with reloading steel one time (usually) but do you want to do this to your fine equipment.

It would be like having a Porsche 916 and then putting re-tread tires on it. I mean you could do it, but it won't handle the same, and neither will your reloads.

 

Number 3- It can be DANGEROUS -Unless you know someone who can give you good tested reloading data for loading steel cases, you cannot expect the steel cases to load and fire the same as the brass. Steel is probably going to hold the bullet more tightly, or be slower to expand the mouth (raising pressures right away) or sticking in the chamber when the chamber is hot. You need tried and true reloading data gathered by a reloader who knows what they are doing.

 

Number 4- I have never met you Indy, and I probably never will, but I like you. You seem like a nice guy.

Let someone else do it first, an experienced reloader who knows how to "read" primers and cases for high pressure, etc. Then when they have come up with a good target load, give it a try if you still want to.

Just save your empty casings, buy some One Shot re-sizing lube and really spray them good. Let them dry and pack in a plastic bag until ready to use.

Then when you have time start checking them for splits. Look at the mouths and shouldes. Any splits in the case mouth and scrap it. Needless to say the shoulders and mouth are the most likely places for splits to occur.

If you are throwing out more than you are keeping then you might not want to even try reloading them, because they can split when reloading too.

 

I hope something I have said helps you,

 

louielouie (I reloaded on and off for over 40 years and then 2 years ago I just stopped)

Edited by louielouie
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Thanks louielouie...

 

I was only thinking of reloading them once... and only for "plinking" rounds... certainly not multiple times...

 

I have a thousand rounds of boxer primed steel cases that I could save when I shoot them... That was the only reason I ask, is that I already have them... and it would offset the cost of buying brass cases.

 

I too was concerned about the effects of steel inside the resizing dies...

 

I did not consider the effects of steel versus brass for changing the dynamics of the firing... a worthy point to consider! :up:

 

Its not that I HAVE to reload them... purely curious as to whether it was worth the bother to save the casings or just chuck them like I do all the other steel cases I shoot off...

 

Thanks for the input, it is appreciated.

 

:smoke:

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Indy,

I don't know what dies you have, but I would buy a set of LEE dies (inexpensive but well made) and if you wreck them after a 1000 rounds, you are only out $35 for the dies. I just found 2 Lee sets on Ebay for about $35.

 

After I thought about it some more, I realized that the Russian firearms were probably made to fire steel case ammo. I don't think you will hurt your rifle, so if you want to, go for it.

 

Have you ever taken advantage of the Lee Press + Reloading manual for around $30? If you want the details let me know.

 

I checked and they have a rebuilt press for $21.49.

 

It is the Lee Reloader Press

 

"An outstanding value. Exclusive balanced lever that can't drop down to pinch your fingers. Unlimited hand clearance that only a "C" frame can offer. Works equally well with the right or left hand. Even if you already own a press, an extra press is always useful for decapping, bullet seating or bullet sizing".

 

louielouie

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  • 2 weeks later...

I actually got a great deal on a *BRAND NEW* single stage Lee press...

 

I got the Press, Full length resizing, depriming, and bullet seating dies, collets, Shell holder, tube to hold old primers, etc..etc..etc... Plus a smaller collet to hold regular size brass casings... 130.00 COMPLETE.

 

Oh... yeah... This one is for .50 BMG... :up: But, I *CAN* set it up to run standard casings through it as well.. The other single stage press is an RCBS. I *USUALLY* ONLY run RCBS dies... they seem to be made a little "better" than the Lee ones... and are still only about $25.00 - $35.00. I will look into a set of Lee .308 and see....

 

Thanks again for the input!! :up: Much appreciated!!

 

:smoke:

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I save the empty steel cases for a "rainy day" and then I'd just reload them as SHTF stuff once the brass ammo is used up. There may come a day when I'll be glad I did, if not then I'll take them over to the scrap yard and get cash for them by weight. I've reloaded a couple hundred steel cases, and they worked fine, but as mentioned dealing with crimped cases is more trouble than it's worth for steel cases that I'd only shoot once or twice before selling them for scrap.

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  • 3 months later...
I actually got a great deal on a *BRAND NEW* single stage Lee press...

 

I got the Press, Full length resizing, depriming, and bullet seating dies, collets, Shell holder, tube to hold old primers, etc..etc..etc... Plus a smaller collet to hold regular size brass casings... 130.00 COMPLETE.

 

Oh... yeah... This one is for .50 BMG... :up: But, I *CAN* set it up to run standard casings through it as well.. The other single stage press is an RCBS. I *USUALLY* ONLY run RCBS dies... they seem to be made a little "better" than the Lee ones... and are still only about $25.00 - $35.00. I will look into a set of Lee .308 and see....

 

Thanks again for the input!! :up: Much appreciated!!

 

:smoke:

 

 

 

 

Indy,

I happened to run across this and wondered how you like reloading so far?

 

Winter is the best time to work up special loads to try, etc.

 

louielouie

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havent done a thing with it in ages... its all set up at my buddies house in the "reloading room" soon enough it will all be setup at my NEW place... I have a room in mind for the "gun room" and I hope to have a table or two in there dedicated to reloading all my stuff I need... so... in time... in time... :):up:

 

 

I have been looking at the last couple posts here about some new reloading benches two of the guys did... one made, one bought... very cool ideas!!!

 

:smoke:

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Winter is the best time to work up special loads to try, etc.

 

louielouie

 

 

 

I'm interested in reloading handgun and rifle calibers but am confused by the dies and multiple presses and all so wouldn't have a clue about what I'd need to get going. Can anybody recommend a kit and mention what are the essentials for gettin 'r done? I'd be willing to spend $3-400- would that get me everything I need to reload?

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First of all, most of the "Exploding guns" that litter the internet usually involve somebodies bufu'd reloads.

 

Second, I have never seen any manufacturer of semi or full auto guns ever condone using reloads at all, feel free to correct me if there is one who does.

 

Third, is it worth taking a chance of at best a catastrophic failure that destroys the weapon, let alone the prospect of taking a face full of metal just to save a few cents per round?

 

I mean you can make the Darwin Societies list if you want, but.....

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. . . Second, I have never seen any manufacturer of semi or full auto guns ever condone using reloads at all, feel free to correct me if there is one who does. . . .

 

Last I checked a few years ago, Hi-Points written position on reloads in the little manual pamphlet was "As long as they conform to all applicable SAAMI specs. for the cartridge in question reloads will not be considered to void the lifetime warrenty," or something along those lines. I do believe, however, that if you had a reload damage one of their guns they would probably just simply claim your reload was not within SAAMI specs. and smile while they said it. :ded:

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