knutz 0 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 I'm gonna attempt to refinish my mossy 12 ga. This is more of a project where I plan on honing my skills. So if it doesn't come off as a professional look I'll be OK with it. Quite frankly unless I get extremely lucky I doubt it will. never been to good at the whole "painting" thing on anything. Anyways.... What would be best to use? I'm kinda leaning towards the Gun-Kote from Brownells. It comes in an aerosol can so no need for an airbrush like the duracoat. I can source an airbrush if I have to go the duracoat route though. I've just never used an airbrush or even spray gun before. I'm wanting to do the receiver, barrel, magazine tube and slide. All parts are steel except the receiver which is aluminum. Will I have problems with the aluminum with either of these two? Anybody have any experience with either one? (Mods if this is in the wrong section I'm sorry didn't know where else to post it) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FBMG Smithy 0 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 (edited) Gun-Kote isnt a bad finish. I prefer DuraCoat and use it on all my customer guns (Saigas and others). Edited July 21, 2008 by FBMG Smithy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
knutz 0 Posted July 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Gun-Kote isnt a bad finish. I prefer DuraCoat and use it on all my customer guns (Saigas and others). Like I said in my original post... I'm leaning towards the Gun-kote since it's seems the simplest to apply with aerosol. Figure I'll hold off on Duracoating for now. Unless some one says one or the other is better for the aluminum. I've got a oven in the shop to use to preheat and bake on the gun-kote. So essentially All I'll need to buy is the coating if i go the GK route. jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BearCreek 0 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 I did my own Saiga in Duracoat as well as 2 Springfield XD pistols with polymer frames.... I have not dealt with gunkote. Duracoat does not require an oven, but the cleanup for Duracoat is yucky. The Duracoat reducer makes it a lot easier, just another added expense. Duracoat has more colors to choose from and no baking... that is why I went the Duracoat route. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 At Tromix we bake on Norrel's Moly resin every day, and highly recommend it. It goes on any metal equally well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
knutz 0 Posted July 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 At Tromix we bake on Norrel's Moly resin every day, and highly recommend it. It goes on any metal equally well. Damn it... why you gotta go and try to confuse me by adding another choice into the mix? It's gonna take me another 2 weeks of research now to figure out what i wanna do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 lol sorry bro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
knutz 0 Posted July 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 (edited) lol sorry bro Don't worry man. I get like that every now and again. Like every time I log on to the net. I have to sit there and debate whether i want to search for porn or gun stuff for about 10 mins before I can do anything. Edited July 21, 2008 by knutz Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 I been using Duracoat for a couple years now and have been satisfied with it. I am going to be looking into Norrells here soon as another option. Duracoat cleans up easily with lacquer thinner. It's cheaper than their reducer. I use the lacquer thinner and occaisionally clean the airbrush with their reducer to save on that stuff. Other thinners won't touch it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BearCreek 0 Posted July 21, 2008 Report Share Posted July 21, 2008 Thanks Gunfixr!! I have been using Mineral Spirits.. and it sucks! I will definitely go with lacquer thinner next go around!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 (edited) LOL is a lot of stuff out there, gunkote, moly resin, duracote, cerakote plain grey phos, black phos. All depends on what you want to do, heat, no heat, one color, camo, paint plastics on gun too... The best to clean duracote is MEK for air brushes or any other stuff and excellent degreaser no residue on metal after it evaporates. Edited July 22, 2008 by vjor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Share Posted July 22, 2008 I haven't tried MEK yet. The lacquer thinner doesn't leave anything behind either. The tech at Lauer told me it would work, but still recommended cleaning the airbrush with their reducer. I do some solid color guns, but really enjoy coming up with camo patterns. So, even if I get into doing Norrells, I'll still be doing Duracoat as Norrells just doesn't come in that many colors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
uzitiger 193 Posted July 26, 2008 Report Share Posted July 26, 2008 Be careful with MEK on plastic parts since it may dissolve or damage them. The same goes for any strong solvent like lacquer thinner or Duracoat's reducer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.