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Finally mustered the testicles to drill on my S12


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Spent about $40 on a drill bit set at Lowes, I'm hoping I can get work to comp me for it. Anyway, I started drinking tequila for some liquid courage, and decided to take the plunge on my first conversion.

 

Everything went really well, I only had trouble with some of the welds on the trigger guards, but nothing major that a bench grinder couldn't take care of. I had a little bit of walk on one of the trigger pins, but no biggie, the plastic plugs cover everything up quite nicely.

 

Here's some pics, more to come when get my tromix trigger guard and trigger:

 

DSCF1054.jpg

DSCF1052.jpg

DSCF1051.jpg

DSCF1050.jpg

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I'm kinda embarrassed that I procrastinated for so long, being that it was so easy. I do pretty well working on cars, but for some reason I was skittish about drilling on my gun.

 

Now I'm trying to decide what I want to do as far as painting it. Of course, I'm leaning towards the engine enamel so I can get it done and get it finished and take it to the range, but I'd like to explore some other option, such as duracoat, depending on price.

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I felt the same way after doing my first conversion. I had put it off for a long time because I was worried about messing up the gun. After I finished the project, I was kicking myself for not having done it far sooner. It really is easy. So far I have had good results painting the guns with Duplicolor low gloss black engine enamel. It doesn't hurt to check out other options though. Enjoy the gun!

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I'm on my way to autozone right now to drop off some used oil and get some engine enamel. I'm expecting my trigger guard tomorrow or wednesday. I can't wait to get this thing put back together and shoot it. It's already my favorite, even though it's disassembled.

 

Also wanted to add, if anyone is looking for a specific brand of drill bits to use, I would highly recommend the Hitachi "black gold" line of bits. I got mine at lowes.

Edited by elvis christ
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I'm kinda embarrassed that I procrastinated for so long, being that it was so easy. I do pretty well working on cars, but for some reason I was skittish about drilling on my gun.

 

Now I'm trying to decide what I want to do as far as painting it. Of course, I'm leaning towards the engine enamel so I can get it done and get it finished and take it to the range, but I'd like to explore some other option, such as duracoat, depending on price.

 

I think everyone (well most everyone except gunfixr...lol) goes through that elvis. For some reason, to most people, a gun is some kind of special beast that they are hesistant to take another tool to and cut on it. Once you take that plunge and make yourself realize it's just a tool itself, and can be "sharpened", modified, or worked on like anything else, the rest is just procedure. I remember what it used to be like to crank up the drill and make that first "cut" into a perfectly good firearm....now I just look at the stock gun like an empty canvas. What can I do with it this time?

 

Like I heard Tony say though, a person needs to be confident and capable with hand tools, otherwise it's not as easy as it seems to those of us who are.

 

A little dose of liquid courage goes a long way sometimes! Too much though and you can really screw some shit up.

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Obviously, Tony's got it, and it looks like you got it, too, Cobra. A gun is a cool thing, but it's just a mechanical device, not really any different than a car, which many people start immediately modifying.

When my wife got her first gun and we brought it home she had to take it from me to look at it closely before I disassembled it. She thinks its funny that I won't leave anything alone. Her second gun I wouldn't even let her play with before I dived into it, it's a Vaquero, and I didn't want those drag marks around the cylinder.

 

Anyway, I haven't found a gun that can't be improved upon, and I'm not afraid to try it, even if it's brand new. And you can't work on other peoples guns if you're afraid to work on your own.

 

I have worked on guns while applying a little liquid courage, although that wasn't why I was doing the drinking, but mostly only on my own, and only in my own garage (as opposed to the shop), and only for certain limited things. A couple of friends have showed up for garage work with beer in hand, and depending on what they want is whether I join in the beer during, or wait until after.

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I did a bit of touch up on the bottom of the receiver, using Semi-gloss black engine enamel. Here are the results:

 

DSCF1063.jpg

 

DSCF1060.jpg

 

This is just the first coat, you can see where I had masked off next to the mag release, I'm thinking of masking closer to the mag release when I do the second coat, and getting rid of that awkward block of original finish. It doesn't really look that prominent in person, but the flash on the camera emphasizes it. I'll sleep on it and decide tomorrow. Hopefully I can get a better idea of what needs to be painted when the trigger guard comes in.

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FWIW, I would mask off the mag release and paint right up to it. I always paint the trigger guard too. That way, when the gun is viewed from the bottom, the finish matches the underside of the receiver. When the gun is viewed from the side, the finish on the trigger guard doesn't show up much. Also, I think that Duplicolor LOW-gloss engine enamel (I think it was designated as DE 1634 on the cap) matches the original finish better than semi-gloss, but its a matter of personal preference.

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Yeah, I was looking for flat or low-gloss, but this was all auto zone had at the time, although I was surprised at how well it matches. I went ahead and painted back to the mag release last night, here are some pics:

 

DSCF1068.jpg

 

DSCF1080.jpg

 

On the second pic, you can see that the finish of the gun and the paint blend pretty well. It still looks super glossy with the flash on, but like I said, in person it actually looks really close to the original.

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My trigger guard came in this afternoon and made me late to work. What do you expect, wait till I get off work to install it? That's crazy talk. I'm super happy with this piece, it definitely completes the gun (well, maybe a tromix handguard would complete the gun, but there's plenty of time for that).

 

DSCF1085.jpg

DSCF1084.jpg

 

I'm on my way over to my buddy's house to install the trigger group (I guess the trigger will complete the gun), and was wondering if there was anything besides filing the hammer down to match the stock hammer that I needed to do to make it work right? A link would be sufficient, if anyone knows of one off the top of their head. For some reason, I have trouble searching for info on this forum, I think it's partially due to the multitude of sub-forums coupled with the multitude of information.

 

But anyway, a point in the right direction would be appreciated, as is all the tips and tricks provided thus far.

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Anyone got any tips on getting the shepherd's crook back in?

 

Well, I don't think you have to mustard your testicles to do the shepherds' crook. :eek:

Matter of fact, I can't recall ever applying condiments to my 'nads prior to performing any conversion work on my Saigas .

-Now, I'm not gonna say I've never applied any condiments to my junk, period; I mean, how many among us could honestly make that claim?

 

:lolol::lolol::lolol:

 

guido2 in Houston

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Condiments on your testicles is a sure fire way to impress the ladies. Didn't you know?

 

But seriously, this thing is a bitch to get in over the pins. What should I do? I took a pretty decent sized gash out of my finger trying to yank the thing on to the pin with some needle nose pliers. Now I'm scared of it.

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If you really don't want to mess with the retaining wire, I recommend using either small hitch pins (ask Nalioth or Dinzag about them), or use a retaining plate (I think Krebs had one specifically made for an S-12).

 

Yeah, we were looking at some pictures, and the plate looks a hundred times easier to deal with. I'll check out the hitch pins too.

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I don't bother with a shepherds crook or a retaining plate, unless the customer wants one. I just modify the existing retaining wire and reuse it. Works fine, reasonably easy to install.

 

Is this the way you are modifying the original spring:

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=11518

 

Or is there a different method? I'm about to try my hand at the shepherd's crook again, BTW.

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I use a different method, less work.

 

Where the coil is wound one the one end, I cut the little tail off the one side of the coil. Then, I shorten the length of the long section to the point where it goes just past the hammer pivot pin when the coil is laying on the bottom of the receiver in between the PG nut and the rivet head that is right behind the trigger. If you don't have either of these, due to removing the rivet and/or using the Tromix DIY Trigger Guard, just with it laying in about that position. After cutting the excess length off, bend a slight arc in the end to hook over the hammer pivot. It's ready.

To install, it simply slides under the trigger pivot pin and over the hammer pivot pin. You'll need to do a little rotating to get it through. When in place, the coil lays across the bottom of the receiver. You can use this coil as a gripping point for your needlenose pliers to put it in or remove it.

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I use a different method, less work.

 

Where the coil is wound one the one end, I cut the little tail off the one side of the coil. Then, I shorten the length of the long section to the point where it goes just past the hammer pivot pin when the coil is laying on the bottom of the receiver in between the PG nut and the rivet head that is right behind the trigger. If you don't have either of these, due to removing the rivet and/or using the Tromix DIY Trigger Guard, just with it laying in about that position. After cutting the excess length off, bend a slight arc in the end to hook over the hammer pivot. It's ready.

To install, it simply slides under the trigger pivot pin and over the hammer pivot pin. You'll need to do a little rotating to get it through. When in place, the coil lays across the bottom of the receiver. You can use this coil as a gripping point for your needlenose pliers to put it in or remove it.

 

Thanks for the tip. I may look into that.

 

I feel like a genius because I believe I may have figured out my issue with my hammer getting hung up on the disconnector. No the hook, but the part that is attached to the actual trigger.

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Finally finished this thing up the other night around 11pm, took it out to shoot, and had a cooling fan fuse on my civic blow and overheat my car at the shooting spot. No biggie, let it cool down for a while and poured some mountain dew in the radiator, and all was well.

 

The problem I was having was the back of the trigger was getting hung up on the top of the pistol grip, causing it not to reset properly. Thanks to my buddy Slayer for diagnosing that one. So we filed off a bit of the grip and everything was good to go. We also ended up taking a bit off of the trigger before we found the issue with the grip, as we thought the trigger was hanging up on the front edge of it's hole.

 

The gun worked relatively well, I had a few stovepipes, which has never happened before, and a few issues with the trigger reseting properly, but I'm confident that it will all work itself out eventually. When I first got the thing, I was having some issues with the trigger getting caught on the safety, but it fixed itself, so I'm sure this will too. I just have to shoot it alot.

 

Here are some pics:

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DSCF1154.jpg

DSCF1156.jpg

 

 

Next up is a Tromix handguard and a muzzle device of some sort.

Edited by elvis christ
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