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Painting NDS Reciever


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I'm about to start the demilling process soon and was wondering if you should paint your receiver BEFORE or AFTER you press in the rivets. This will be my first build and I'm basically doing it form what I've learned off the interbutts.

 

Any pointers before i start?

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  • 3 weeks later...

we've done several ak's and what we have found is this,, bead blast everthing twice,,, degrease as much as needed...parkerize,,, yep parkerize,, dont matter what color,, then paint,,, paint sticks great to parkerizing,,, you can set up a home park tank reasonably with stuff rom brownells and do it out in back yard ,,, not alot of heat required ,,,, just stinks..all of this after all metal work is done.. by the way we are using brownells alumahyde 2 in rattle cans for paint,,, let it set up no bake for a coupleof weeks to harden and cure,, its tough stuff... this is a long process but final product is worth the wait... hope this helps..

p.s. depending on how this work with metal work we take em out and function test first , that why cleaning and blasting is done more than once.. sucks when its all pretty and you gotta go back and rework something messing up finish.. oh and very important do not use aluma hyde2 for inside finish at all it is too thick.... we dura coat inside receiver...found that out by trial and lots of error..

Edited by lsgs
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I have done many builds with NDS recievers and have duracoated all of them. Get all of your rivets done First, and squish them good enough to provide clearance on the inside of the reciever (so you dont have to grind em later). Headspace, assemble, and test fire the rifle before painting. You sometimes need to do a little dremel work around the mag opening or top rails to get everything to fit perfect.

 

Dont degrease with soap & water, as these recievers will quickly turn into a rusting mess. I use the duracoat degreasing spray and it does an excelent job and leaves no residue. As use K-phos as a base layer before painting with duracoat. If you use duracoat, put the parts away for 4-6 weeks before assembling. You have to resist the urge to shoot the dam thing too soon or you risk ruining the project.

 

Here is one of my NDS-3 / Rommy builds.

 

post-10946-1219378340_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I use the Alumahyde II from Brownells on all of my builds/projects. I do so after assembling and test firing...just in case something was overlooked and has to be smoothed out. The cheap Wally World carb cleaner does all of the degreasing prior to painting and I don't do anything with the metal, despite the fact I have a blast cabinet. The finish does hold up nicely and won't peel or flake.

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  • 3 months later...
I use the Alumahyde II from Brownells on all of my builds/projects. I do so after assembling and test firing...just in case something was overlooked and has to be smoothed out. The cheap Wally World carb cleaner does all of the degreasing prior to painting and I don't do anything with the metal, despite the fact I have a blast cabinet. The finish does hold up nicely and won't peel or flake.

Does the Alumahyde have a texture like parkerizing ???????

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  • 4 months later...

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