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OK....I did my conversion a couple of months ago, shot it and everything was great. I took it out a couple of weeks ago and it would fire one round and misfire on the next. I had to pull back and eject that round and it would fire the next. So to actually send a round down range I had to pull back and eject the next round, every other round!!!! The unfired rounds had a firepin mark on it. I am thinking it might be the extracter or is it in the FCG or maybe the bolt system...firing pin?

I am calling all Saiga gods out there that can shed some light on this. You know frustrating this is.. :ded:

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Although the true problem may lie within one of the internals, did you try different mags?

I did not do a bullet guide, still using the 10 round Saiga

Did you try just one of the stock mags or a second one also? Main point being to try any different one.

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May be short stroking.

Remove the top cover

Cycle without the magazine.

Assure the hammer is caught on the trigger hook.

Pull the trigger, hold the trigger back, cycle carrier again note if the disconnector is now holding the hammer.

release the trigger, the trigger hook should catch the hammer.

If this works properly, the bolt/carrier is short cycling.

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Possible you have chamber fouling. Use the wire brush that was included with your Saiga to clean it. If you've been using lacquered ammo such as Wolf, that's a definite possibility. Wolf changed to polymer coating recently, but there's still a lot of the old stuff floating around.

Edited by Mike the Wolf
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  • 4 weeks later...
May be short stroking.

Remove the top cover

Cycle without the magazine.

Assure the hammer is caught on the trigger hook.

Pull the trigger, hold the trigger back, cycle carrier again note if the disconnector is now holding the hammer.

release the trigger, the trigger hook should catch the hammer.

If this works properly, the bolt/carrier is short cycling.

 

Sorry it took so long to reply...I moved and now I am ready to bring the toys out! I tried the cycling like you wrote and I guess it is Short Cycling. I don't understand... that is the same as a Functions Test on a M-16/M4. If it the check passes the rifle will fire, different on the Ak I am assuming?

Do you know what the cause is and how to fix?

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Pictures of your internals would also help...

 

I am willing to doubt highly that the firing pin is the culprit, as it fires every other round perfectly.

 

When you cycle by hand, you are truly resetting the action to how it is supposed to be, when it does it, theres a glitch. and hence, wont fire...

 

Have you tried shooting with the dustcover OFF?

 

I REALLY DO NOT CONDONE TESTING WITH LIVE AMMO!! IT IS DANGEROUS!!! With that said... YOU CAN TRY THIS.... Load two rounds... TWO ROUNDS ONLY... hand cycle to start, place the SAFETY ON! Examine the internals, KEEPING THE RIFLE POINTED DOWNRANGE... Does everything look like its supposed to??? UNSAFE, shoot the first round, place the rifle safety BACK ON... and then while keeping the rifle POINTED DOWNRANGE.... look inside at the internals again... and note if ANYTHING LOOKS DIFFERENT... Are both of the hammer springs in the proper location? Or is one off the leg of the trigger, and therefore not giving you full force to drive the hammer??? If nothing looks amiss... re-aim the firearm, un-safe it, pull trigger and see if it goes bang or click...

 

If it goes bang... try again with two rounds, to duplicate your dilemma...

 

If it goes CLICK.... examine AGAIN, and see what might be the problem...

 

Will those "click" rounds fire off if you rechamber again and try again???

 

I would start off with a TOTAL break down and THOROUGH cleaning!! spray the rifle out liberally with gun scrubber, or the like of a degreasing agent... completely field strip and spray out the bolt make sure the firing pin "rattles" in the bolt. Unless you have a spring loaded one, and in which case, make sure it is "sproinky" when you push on it... it should move very freely. Is the disconnector freely moving on the trigger cross pin? Use a chamber brush and make sure the chamber is cleaned well.

 

Other than that, I would try showing some pics here that may help others to determine the culprit....

 

:smoke:

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I'm pretty sure he has chamber fouling. Remember that this can cause short stroking as well, because if pulling the shell is eating up too much energy, it will cause it to not fully recock. It's a major problem if you're shooting lacquered ammo. Actually, even polymer-coated Wolf can cause this problem, particularly if you were shooting steel cased ammo before and then tried to shoot brass. You still get chamber fouling, and need to use a chamber brush before you can reliably shoot brass-cased ammo again.

 

What happens is this: steel cases don't expand to make a good gas seal when the bullet fires, so you get powder fouling blowing by the case and into the chamber. This causes rapid powder buildup that's not fully removed during a normal cleaning. Then if you shoot brass-cased ammo, the brass casing DOES expand to fill the chamber that's now abnormally small due to the powder buildup, and it wedges in tight. What usually happens is failure to extract, case head separation or broken rims, or short stroking.

 

You COULD just have bad ammo. Also, did you, by any chance, remove the rim on your bolt face? Someone else on this forum did it, and they lost the ability to shoot military-spec ammo because of it. Lastly, I have heard that AKs do not like shooting reloads.

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