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Problems casting .45 lead balls


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I bought a slightly used single .45 caliber ball mold, a Benzomatic torch and an antique cast iron ladle. This is the second time pouring with it and in under 2 hours I only got about a dozen nice cast lead balls! I am having trouble making retarded ones in which the lead poured does not fill the cast and a little lead gets in but that's it. The ladle had oil on it but I burned that off last time and I keep the mold clean too. I am melting .50 caliber lead balls I bought originally cheap at a gunshow to try shooting from my slingshot but found out that they were too heavy. The .45 caliber lead balls are hard hitting at close range out of a slingshot. So what am I doing wrong? I heat the lead itself up and not the ladle, and I have tried heating the mold too a bit. It seems the air within is keeping out the lead or just the pour hole it too small. Ideas????

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I am sometimes heating the mold a little, and I only have a propane torch that I use to heat the lead directly. Trying to heat the big cast iron ladle would be impractical with it. I've been experimenting but nothing is fool proof at all......

Edited by THE_HUNTER
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You need to invest in a cast-iron pot to melt the lead in, once you have the lead melted, mix some bee's wax in and then skim the impuritys off the top of the molted metal. the bee's wax will smoke and smell so you may want to get a one burner propane hot plate to heat the smelting pot out side or in your shop. the trick is to control the temp. of the lead . hope this helps

rick

 

I am sometimes heating the mold a little, and I only have a propane torch that I use to heat the lead directly. Trying to heat the big cast iron ladle would be impractical with it. I've been experimenting but nothing is fool proof at all......
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Hold the bullet mold vertical, bring the dipper to the mold sprue hole, tip both together until the mold is full.

It keeps the molten lead from cooling prematurely.

The mold must be hot, dip a corner of it in the molten lead for a few minutes.

Edited by gunnysmith
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Hi Hunter...

 

Some of these solutions probably wont appeal to you because of the expense..But if you think you might do a lot of casting down the road they might help.

I cast thousands of BIG lead bullets per year..in the 330 to 530 grain range...And the secret to getting good bullets..or balls... the size you want is temperature control.

 

The lead must be HOT..The ladle or dipper must be HOT..and the mould must be HOT. Lymans literature will tell you to cast in the 650 degree range..I can tell you its an exercise in futility. If your lead has a "slushy" look on top..It is NOT hot enough. With that in mind ..safety first..Wear VERY heavy leather gloves, and a long sleeve shirt...Dont allow ANYTHING with moisture in it or on it anywhere near your casting area. A drop of sweat falling into 750 degree lead can get you an instant third degree burn.

 

If you are going to do much casting in the future do yourself a favor and get a "Waage Electric" melting pot..Its the most temperature stable pot on the market. Since you probably arent interested in investing in an electric pot, you can try to find a small cast iron pot of some type. A thermometer for use with bullet casting equipment is very handy also. Get a double burner hot plate.Take an electrical junction box, cut a "notch" in one side, fashion a metal "lid" for it. Set the pot on one burner, and the junction box on the other. You can "preheat" your ladle in the junction box on one burner while the pot heats on the other.

 

Use your torch to add heat to the melting pot and as someone else mentioned flux the lead..two or three times. I use an old table spoon i drilled holes in the bottom of..Skim the "dross" off

by skimming against the side of the pot and let the lead drain back thru the holes. When the lead has a very "shiny" look its suitable for casting. Keep in mind that ANYTHING you are going to place in the lead can cause splatters...place the skimming spoon in "edgewise" slowly so it can heat. Once the lead is fluxed take the ladle or dipper and slowly ease it into the melted lead and leave it there..Let it sit for a couple minutes till it reaches a stable temp.

 

The biggest problem you will have is keeping the mould block at a high temp..Trying to heat it with the torch can warp the block depending on the material its made from..Preheat it in the junction box....When it is as hot as its going to get there start pouring..fast. Your round ball mould probably doesnt have a "sprue plate", but if it does be sure you get a small "puddle" of lead on the sprue plate if the mould has one..I use a heavy delrin rod to whack the sprue cutter.

 

Use a coffee can or whatever is handy to catch the scrap...Figure on casting at LEAST ten balls before the mould has come up to temperature...When the balls come out looking right

dump the scrap back in the pot quickly and keep pouring.

 

If the balls start to come out of the mould looking "frosty" your lead is getting too hot...Let it cool slightly.

Hope I didnt make all that sound confusing..Good luck.

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Listen to Sharps, he gave you all the advice I would have.

 

I have been casting balls, and sinkers, since I was a kid.

 

I grew up in a shop, and had access to everything I needed, my Grandfather used to cast bearings in place at the steel mill he worked in, so big old steel pots, and ladles were handy.

 

Throw in an old propane burner with a cast iron pot holding top, and it was all in front of me.

 

Plus the local Water Authority was always pulling old lead water pipes out of the ground, and if you knew someone, you could get them and melt them down, for free, lead was worth nothing back in the day.

 

LISTEN to his safety tips, I still have 30 plus year old scars on my hands from little "Pops" of lead from the pot, on my hands, from adding scrap lead to the mixture with water on it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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