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Help! Indexing Shark break on S12


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Got my Shark break today and cannot get it indexed correctly. Hand tight the holes lineup on the bottom. No way to get another 1/2 turn. If I back it up 1/2 turn it sits way to loose. I searched past threads and found that using loctite should be used to index. I can't see how loctite will help with the amount of looseness. I tried teflon tape and wrapped it as much as I could but the break is still not tight enough. Any suggestions before I throw the friggin thing across the room.......!?

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I don't know if this will help, but here it goes. I had the same issue on my s-12 but I had already decided that I was going to install the front raised sight to increase the sight radius since I will employ the weapon as my new whitetail slug gun. So when I got the sight from the e-store here I used it as a means to "jam" the shark break against the front sight block. So problem solved without locktite. Locktite makes several products to take up excessive play in threads. you sould use the "green" stuff if you NEVER wanted to take it off. In my experience, that is a last resort though. As far as teflon tape is concerned, the threads could easily cut through the tape and render it unreliable at taking up slack. I hope this helps.

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Got my Shark break today and cannot get it indexed correctly. Hand tight the holes lineup on the bottom. No way to get another 1/2 turn. If I back it up 1/2 turn it sits way to loose. I searched past threads and found that using loctite should be used to index. I can't see how loctite will help with the amount of looseness. I tried teflon tape and wrapped it as much as I could but the break is still not tight enough. Any suggestions before I throw the friggin thing across the room.......!?

 

 

Cant you use crush washers on the Shark ?

 

HarvKY

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I put the red loctite on mine, it holds just fine, and the brake CAN be removed if I choose to. They claim the red is permanent, but a little heat will make it turn loose, the green can turn loose on it's own, with slight heat. You can get a tiny tube at a parts store, put a thin bead the length of the threads, screw it on and let it set up. Oh, and if any squishes from the threads, wipe it off before it sets up, it'll look cheezey if you don't. I've dumped full drum after drum thru my gun and the brake is still tight.

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I put the red loctite on mine, it holds just fine, and the brake CAN be removed if I choose to. They claim the red is permanent, but a little heat will make it turn loose, the green can turn loose on it's own, with slight heat. You can get a tiny tube at a parts store, put a thin bead the length of the threads, screw it on and let it set up. Oh, and if any squishes from the threads, wipe it off before it sets up, it'll look cheezey if you don't. I've dumped full drum after drum thru my gun and the brake is still tight.

Here is the problem, when I screw the break on to where it needs to be set it has play from side to side and up and down. Not just looseness on the threads. This means that if I attempt to loctite it, it may not set straight and actually be on an angle. I may have to take a pic or small video to show what I mean.

Edited by TBAG
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Almost sounds like the brake threads do not match the barrel threading. It shouldn't be that loose.

The play disappears when tightened all the way up.......Just when I back it off a 1/2 turn it gets enough play that I can move the break ever so slightly from left to right, up down......

Edited by TBAG
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Is the barrel hitting the inside of the brake when fully tightened?

 

If so, you an file the end of the barrel which will index the brake.

 

If you are out of threads, you can possibly get the die and thread another 1/16 to get it to index

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That looks like it cones outward, but the camera may be tricking me out.

 

Are you sure thats not an airsoft copy? where did you get it?

Got it from MAA. I see what you mean by cone outwards but I just looked at it and it doesn't.

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Either the threads on the barrel are a bit undersize, the threads on the shark are a bit oversize, or both.

If you have a set of calipers, measure both, and shoot me the dims. If not, just send it back to Tromix and I will send you another that is a hair on the tight side of the tolerance range.

 

Tony Rumore

Tromix Corp

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Tony the issue has been resolved. I was able to thread the new break all the way using some anti-seize. It lined up about 98%. Just off by a little but good enough that the port holes were far enough on the top. I don't think I'll need loctite. It's on there pretty good. I'll shoot the crap out of it tomorrow and see how it holds up.

 

Thanks again for the 1 week turnaround too.

 

Chuck

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