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Saiga 12 conversion questions. ACE FOLDER INSTALLATION TUTORIAL

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Would drilling a hole down through the receiver block and using a longer screw work instead of making the relief cut that clears the rear screw and washer? Will the screw head and washer come in contact with any internal mechanisms on top of the receiver block?

 

Thanks

ERG80

 

As you can see in this photo

post-12530-1228961353_thumb.jpg

the screw is not completely covered by the receiver block.

 

There is not enough surface area on top of the block to hold the screw.

 

This is a top view and you can see the screw and washer.

post-12530-1228961832_thumb.jpg

This block has been refinished unlike the one in my other photos.

If you have any other questions let me know.

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Whats going on with the rivet hole that was drilled on the back bottom of the receiver? Could that be used as another secure point instead of tapping the holes on the side

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Whats going on with the rivet hole that was drilled on the back bottom of the receiver? Could that be used as another secure point instead of tapping the holes on the side

 

Sure you could put a fastener there. Need to have a small head or relief cut the pistol grip. Use the nylon inserts for the old axis pin holes or weld up the 4 axis pin holes sand down and Dura coat. Lots a ways to do it.

 

post-12530-1228965875_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for getting back so fast. Im having the gun go out for Dura-Coat sometime this month. Still deciding on colors (tan or dark Grey). Also looking for an easy, but also clean way to have the gun worked up. im having H&K sights welded on so i might just see if they will go over the holes while there at it.

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Thanks for getting back so fast. Im having the gun go out for Dura-Coat sometime this month. Still deciding on colors (tan or dark Grey). Also looking for an easy, but also clean way to have the gun worked up. im having H&K sights welded on so i might just see if they will go over the holes while there at it.

 

 

Glad too help.

Post pics when you get it done. I think Tan would be cool.

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Ah. Thanks.

 

Would drilling a hole down through the receiver block and using a longer screw work instead of making the relief cut that clears the rear screw and washer? Will the screw head and washer come in contact with any internal mechanisms on top of the receiver block?

 

Thanks

ERG80

 

As you can see in this photo

post-12530-1228961353_thumb.jpg

the screw is not completely covered by the receiver block.

 

There is not enough surface area on top of the block to hold the screw.

 

This is a top view and you can see the screw and washer.

post-12530-1228961832_thumb.jpg

This block has been refinished unlike the one in my other photos.

If you have any other questions let me know.

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ripper1,

Thank you for your posts, I found them very helpful.

I just bought a Saiga 12 and some parts to do the conversion.

Since I ordered the parts before receiving the Saiga, I may not have made the best choice and ordered some extra parts as well (I figured I can resell them fairly easily).

From reading on the web, I thought the Saiga 12 receiver was cut in the proper place to accept the standard AK grip nut but from your pics, it seems that it is not the case, or is it?

Also, I have ordered a Bulgarian AK trigger guard which mounts with 4 rivets (or screws) in the front and one in the back. Looking at some pics over the net, it seems that the magazine release on the Saiga 12 is different from their AK counterparts and that there is a bloc in the receiver where the rivets should go which would make it very hard to mount the rivets.

Should I go with the Tromix trigger guard instead or will I be able to put the rivets in place?

 

Regarding the use of nylon plugs or screws on the ACE bloc (which I ordered as well with their folding stock), I think it is a no brainer: we must use screws! We are talking about a 12 gage here, not a 22 LR...

 

By the way, where do you get these screws from?

 

Also, what do you use to finish the unpainted portion of the receiver? I thought about DuraCoat but it looks like I would have to blast and redo the entire gun which might be a too big of a job for me. What do you recommend if I were to touch up the unpainted portions only?

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ripper1,

Thank you for your posts, I found them very helpful.

I just bought a Saiga 12 and some parts to do the conversion.

Since I ordered the parts before receiving the Saiga, I may not have made the best choice and ordered some extra parts as well (I figured I can resell them fairly easily).

From reading on the web, I thought the Saiga 12 receiver was cut in the proper place to accept the standard AK grip nut but from your pics, it seems that it is not the case, or is it?

Also, I have ordered a Bulgarian AK trigger guard which mounts with 4 rivets (or screws) in the front and one in the back. Looking at some pics over the net, it seems that the magazine release on the Saiga 12 is different from their AK counterparts and that there is a bloc in the receiver where the rivets should go which would make it very hard to mount the rivets.

Should I go with the Tromix trigger guard instead or will I be able to put the rivets in place?

 

Regarding the use of nylon plugs or screws on the ACE bloc (which I ordered as well with their folding stock), I think it is a no brainer: we must use screws! We are talking about a 12 gage here, not a 22 LR...

 

By the way, where do you get these screws from?

 

Also, what do you use to finish the unpainted portion of the receiver? I thought about DuraCoat but it looks like I would have to blast and redo the entire gun which might be a too big of a job for me. What do you recommend if I were to touch up the unpainted portions only?

 

The S12 does not have the cut for the pistol grip and that is why I use the Tromix DIYS trigger guard, just bolt it on and attach the Tapco saw grip.

 

Any fastener store should stock the csrews, they are 10X32 3/8.

 

I use the Brownell's alumi hyde 2 Matte Black. I just prep the lower receiver with a scotch bright pad and degrease with Brownell's TCE. Mask off the other areas of the gun to avoid over spray. Brownell's has a video tutorial so I would watch it and it will give you all the details.

 

I have looked into the Dura Coat and it is a fantastic paint. You could do the same as above with it as well.

 

The Aluma Hyde comes on a rattle can and the dura coat HK black come with the paint and a hardener to mix. It is applied by an air brush from what I understand. HK black matches the original finish better than the matte black but once you get the trigger guard installed and the hand grip, it's not that noticeable.

 

Hope this helps

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ripper1,

Thank you for your posts, I found them very helpful.

I just bought a Saiga 12 and some parts to do the conversion.

Since I ordered the parts before receiving the Saiga, I may not have made the best choice and ordered some extra parts as well (I figured I can resell them fairly easily).

From reading on the web, I thought the Saiga 12 receiver was cut in the proper place to accept the standard AK grip nut but from your pics, it seems that it is not the case, or is it?

Also, I have ordered a Bulgarian AK trigger guard which mounts with 4 rivets (or screws) in the front and one in the back. Looking at some pics over the net, it seems that the magazine release on the Saiga 12 is different from their AK counterparts and that there is a bloc in the receiver where the rivets should go which would make it very hard to mount the rivets.

Should I go with the Tromix trigger guard instead or will I be able to put the rivets in place?

 

Regarding the use of nylon plugs or screws on the ACE bloc (which I ordered as well with their folding stock), I think it is a no brainer: we must use screws! We are talking about a 12 gage here, not a 22 LR...

 

By the way, where do you get these screws from?

 

Also, what do you use to finish the unpainted portion of the receiver? I thought about DuraCoat but it looks like I would have to blast and redo the entire gun which might be a too big of a job for me. What do you recommend if I were to touch up the unpainted portions only?

 

The S12 does not have the cut for the pistol grip and that is why I use the Tromix DIYS trigger guard, just bolt it on and attach the Tapco saw grip.

 

Any fastener store should stock the csrews, they are 10X32 3/8.

 

I use the Brownell's alumi hyde 2 Matte Black. I just prep the lower receiver with a scotch bright pad and degrease with Brownell's TCE. Mask off the other areas of the gun to avoid over spray. Brownell's has a video tutorial so I would watch it and it will give you all the details.

 

I have looked into the Dura Coat and it is a fantastic paint. You could do the same as above with it as well.

 

The Aluma Hyde comes on a rattle can and the dura coat HK black come with the paint and a hardener to mix. It is applied by an air brush from what I understand. HK black matches the original finish better than the matte black but once you get the trigger guard installed and the hand grip, it's not that noticeable.

 

Hope this helps

 

Thanks a lot

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Why not just drill all the way through the block and use a couple of long rivets, like a regular AK47 rear trunnion?

 

You could try the AK rivets but the rear holes end up so close to the front edge of the block you may not have enough material for it to hold.

 

Even when I tap the rear holes you can see lite impresions of the threads protuding on the outside if the block. It's very close for the rear holes.

 

 

 

I actually did the first block I modified with standard rivets. I had to over size the rear holes in the block so there would be enough room for the rivets to expand. So what happened was while drilling the rear holes it made a very ugly opening all the way through the front of the receiver block. I did install 4 rivets and it held it just fine. I just didn't like how it looked on the inside. I take a lot pride in my conversions, so I decided that tapping made for a much cleaner install. It takes a little longer but it's worth it.

 

 

If you try the AK rivet idea let me know how it turns out.

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Great tutorial...thanks, Mav. :D

 

Why not just drill all the way through the block and use a couple of long rivets, like a regular AK47 rear trunnion?

 

You could try the AK rivets but the rear holes end up so close to the front edge of the block you may not have enough material for it to hold.

 

Even when I tap the rear holes you can see lite impresions of the threads protuding on the outside if the block. It's very close for the real holes.

 

 

 

I actually did the first block I modified with standard rivets. I had to over size the rear holes in the block so there would be enough room for the rivets to expand. So what happened was while drilling the rear holes it made a very ugly opening all the way through the front of the receiver block. I did install 4 rivets and it held it just fine. I just didn't like how it looked on the inside. I take a lot pride in my conversions, so I decided that tapping made for a much cleaner install. It takes a little longer but it's worth it.

 

 

If you try the AK rivet idea let me know how it turns out.

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Great tutorial...thanks, Mav. :D

 

Why not just drill all the way through the block and use a couple of long rivets, like a regular AK47 rear trunnion?

 

You could try the AK rivets but the rear holes end up so close to the front edge of the block you may not have enough material for it to hold.

 

Even when I tap the rear holes you can see lite impresions of the threads protuding on the outside if the block. It's very close for the real holes.

 

 

 

I actually did the first block I modified with standard rivets. I had to over size the rear holes in the block so there would be enough room for the rivets to expand. So what happened was while drilling the rear holes it made a very ugly opening all the way through the front of the receiver block. I did install 4 rivets and it held it just fine. I just didn't like how it looked on the inside. I take a lot pride in my conversions, so I decided that tapping made for a much cleaner install. It takes a little longer but it's worth it.

 

 

If you try the AK rivet idea let me know how it turns out.

 

Glad too help and welcome to the board. :D

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Thanks for getting back so fast. Im having the gun go out for Dura-Coat sometime this month. Still deciding on colors (tan or dark Grey). Also looking for an easy, but also clean way to have the gun worked up. im having H&K sights welded on so i might just see if they will go over the holes while there at it.

I just bought my Saiga-12 Friday. Really nice tutorial, makes a computer worth while. Those pictures say it all. Tan colors look awful white not like in the duracoat online catalog. I like tactical coyote brown best. ACU even better. Do another tutorial, your good at it.

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I agree. Great tutorial.

 

Does anyone know if they make any internal blocks that have the 3 degree pitch like the weld in Tromix plates? I've not seen any, but figured I'd ask.

 

 

Corbin

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Hey ripper great tutorial by the way! I've got a quick question for you, in the pic of the S12 with the ace folding mech when you fold it to the side, does it have a little play and sway side to side with about a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch of movement in the locked position? I ask this because the one I got yesterday does and I was just wondering if this is just the way they are.

 

 

Thanks.

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I agree. Great tutorial.

 

Does anyone know if they make any internal blocks that have the 3 degree pitch like the weld in Tromix plates? I've not seen any, but figured I'd ask.

 

 

Corbin

 

The MSA block does.

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=35708

 

question re: this 3 degree pitch; Does this give a better angle for all stocks or has this block w/ the pitch been made to correct the geometry of a certain type of stock?

 

TIA

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I forgot that my uncle has a welder.. Anyone have pics of what it's supposed to look like when the plate is welded on?

Yes, this is what the back plate should look like TIG Welded in place, then ground smooth.

4SaigatechRearPlateTIGedin-A.jpg

Edited by Azrial

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I agree. Great tutorial.

 

Does anyone know if they make any internal blocks that have the 3 degree pitch like the weld in Tromix plates? I've not seen any, but figured I'd ask.

 

 

Corbin

 

The MSA block does.

 

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=35708

 

question re: this 3 degree pitch; Does this give a better angle for all stocks or has this block w/ the pitch been made to correct the geometry of a certain type of stock?

 

TIA

 

 

 

anyone, is this 3 degrees needed for all sotcks or just some weird shaped ones???

Edited by lvjeffro

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Hi all,

 

I figured I'd chime in here as I just used one of the new blocks from CSS tonight. It worked perfect, snug fit, and didn't need any extra grinding for fit, even with the Tromix DIY trigger guard (last screw). It all fit together like a glove. I tapped mine for 8x32 screws instead of the 10x32 (like other people have mentioned) mainly cause that's what CSS sold. I even noticed tonight that he's got a pre-tapped internal receiver block up for sale now too.

 

And before anyone asks; No, I do not work for them, LOL. just a very happy customer.

 

 

Mike

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Hi all,

 

I figured I'd chime in here as I just used one of the new blocks from CSS tonight. It worked perfect, snug fit, and didn't need any extra grinding for fit, even with the Tromix DIY trigger guard (last screw). It all fit together like a glove. I tapped mine for 8x32 screws instead of the 10x32 (like other people have mentioned) mainly cause that's what CSS sold. I even noticed tonight that he's got a pre-tapped internal receiver block up for sale now too.

 

And before anyone asks; No, I do not work for them, LOL. just a very happy customer.

 

 

Mike

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apHGSExPmUo

 

Here is a quick video using our Internal Block with pre-tapped side holes.

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great video ! " dont forget the locktite on any part of the gun Red for what you never want to come off without heat ,Blue what needs to be removed at some point. and let dry forat least 24 hrs. most people dont let it dry and start firing the gun and parts start falling off. "not saying mike forgot to say it in the video because he did say it. but all what i read on fourms either no uses or uses it the right way.

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Im very new to this forum and hate to sound like a noob, but doesnt ace make an adapter that is shaped specifically for the converted S12 without access to the traditional AK grip screw set up? I believe 4 side holes are threaded to attach at the preexisting sporter set up trigger holes, as well as a small screw and nut at the top of the receiver block assembly after the tang is removed of course. .

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