Krom 36 Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 I don't reload yet but I want to start saving up brass for the future. So is this yugo brass 7.62x39 re-loadable? And I know it's corrosive so should I just stay away from this stuff? Any opinions on this stuff is welcomed. http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/7_62x39.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 It's Berdan primed and reloadable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Krom 36 Posted December 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 It's Berdan primed and reloadable. Sounds good, how concerned should I be about it being corrosive? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 It's Berdan primed and reloadable. Sounds good, how concerned should I be about it being corrosive? I seem to be answering a lot of questions about corrosive ammo today. Simple answer: Bress is not suseptible to the metal salts used in the primers. Long winded answer (copied from another forum where I answered with it earlier today) The way some folks carry on about 'corrosive ammo', they make it out as if it's the same as pouring industrial acid down your barrel. It is not. "Corrosive ammo" is called such because the primers contain metal salts that if left on your gun will attract moisture and cause rust. Left too long, and you get pits (or worse). It's not corrosive like acid. <a previous post contained an opinion that if the gun wasn't cleaned, they'd see rust within a week or two afterward> The "week or two" mentioned above is quite conditional. If you live in a humid area like me, you'll likely have light rust before you get home from the range, if you don't swab it there. Hot soapy water - worked for decades for the black powder boys (black powder residue is far more detrimental to leave in your gun than the leavin's from the modern stuff). Yes, I know it's not quite the right answer to your question, but it seems so many folks think "corrosive ammo" has industrial acid instead of gun powder in it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mscottrogers 56 Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 unless you have an easy way to get the berdan primer out, and be able to find berdan to replace it, you'll want to stick to boxer primed ammo. berdan primed has 2 tiny holes for a flash pan and boxer has 1 bigger hole dead center( making it easier to punch out the primer). I've found sites talking about pounding the brass in the pan flat to close the holes then redrilling the center for boxer, but it seams like a lot of extra work. If some one still makes the tools to get the berdan primer out I haven't found them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Krom 36 Posted December 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 unless you have an easy way to get the berdan primer out, and be able to find berdan to replace it, you'll want to stick to boxer primed ammo. berdan primed has 2 tiny holes for a flash pan and boxer has 1 bigger hole dead center( making it easier to punch out the primer). I've found sites talking about pounding the brass in the pan flat to close the holes then redrilling the center for boxer, but it seams like a lot of extra work. If some one still makes the tools to get the berdan primer out I haven't found them. I don't really know too much about berdan vs boxer since I'm not reloading yet, but I'd be interested in more information about if it is worth it to even try and reload this stuff. I just kinda want to start saving up reloading supplies namely brass so that I can keep my current ammo saved for a rainy day and shoot my reloads for fun. Also anyone got any suggestions/experience about where to get 7.62x39 brass to reload? Value is the most important factor, I mean the most reloads out of the brass for the money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Krom 36 Posted December 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 It's Berdan primed and reloadable. Sounds good, how concerned should I be about it being corrosive? I seem to be answering a lot of questions about corrosive ammo today. Simple answer: Bress is not suseptible to the metal salts used in the primers. Long winded answer (copied from another forum where I answered with it earlier today) The way some folks carry on about 'corrosive ammo', they make it out as if it's the same as pouring industrial acid down your barrel. It is not. "Corrosive ammo" is called such because the primers contain metal salts that if left on your gun will attract moisture and cause rust. Left too long, and you get pits (or worse). It's not corrosive like acid. <a previous post contained an opinion that if the gun wasn't cleaned, they'd see rust within a week or two afterward> The "week or two" mentioned above is quite conditional. If you live in a humid area like me, you'll likely have light rust before you get home from the range, if you don't swab it there. Hot soapy water - worked for decades for the black powder boys (black powder residue is far more detrimental to leave in your gun than the leavin's from the modern stuff). Yes, I know it's not quite the right answer to your question, but it seems so many folks think "corrosive ammo" has industrial acid instead of gun powder in it. Thanks, I feel like I know alot more about corrosive ammo now, it's like you were saying attracting water is alot different than it is being like acid. I guess that I would feel comfortable shooting this stuff I just have to be sure and clean my weapon after shooting it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 unless you have an easy way to get the berdan primer out, and be able to find berdan to replace it, you'll want to stick to boxer primed ammo. berdan primed has 2 tiny holes for a flash pan and boxer has 1 bigger hole dead center( making it easier to punch out the primer). I've found sites talking about pounding the brass in the pan flat to close the holes then redrilling the center for boxer, but it seams like a lot of extra work. If some one still makes the tools to get the berdan primer out I haven't found them. unless you have an easy way to get the berdan primer out, and be able to find berdan to replace it, you'll want to stick to boxer primed ammo. berdan primed has 2 tiny holes for a flash pan and boxer has 1 bigger hole dead center( making it easier to punch out the primer). I've found sites talking about pounding the brass in the pan flat to close the holes then redrilling the center for boxer, but it seams like a lot of extra work. If some one still makes the tools to get the berdan primer out I haven't found them. I don't really know too much about berdan vs boxer since I'm not reloading yet, but I'd be interested in more information about if it is worth it to even try and reload this stuff. I just kinda want to start saving up reloading supplies namely brass so that I can keep my current ammo saved for a rainy day and shoot my reloads for fun. Also anyone got any suggestions/experience about where to get 7.62x39 brass to reload? Value is the most important factor, I mean the most reloads out of the brass for the money. SurplusRifle.com has (as usual) excellent articles on reloading with Berdan primers. More info from SurplusRifle.com Quote Link to post Share on other sites
russianblood 0 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 Good luck finding Berdan primers. Last I knew they were being imported by PMC before they went under. I gave away hundreds of Nazi 8x56r brass due to lack of Berdan primers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Good luck finding Berdan primers. Last I knew they were being imported by PMC before they went under. I gave away hundreds of Nazi 8x56r brass due to lack of Berdan primers. The other thing about berdan primers is that if they are in military brass, then 99.9 % of the time the primers are "crimped". This means the last thing done to the primers is to make a small crimp between the edge of the primer and the edge of the primer hole. You must use a special tool to remove the primer "swage". RCBS makes a good one, but after less than 100 cases I knew I never wanted to use military brass again. UNLESS, You can buy it sometimes already de-primed and with the primer pocket clean and round. It is still cheaper than commercial brass, but now you are back to Berdan Primers. It can be done, but is it worth it?? louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Krom 36 Posted December 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Thanks for all the input, but berdan primers seem like way too much trouble vs benefit especially since I don't know what I'm doing cause I haven't even started to reload yet. Any suggestions about where to get boxer primed 762x39 brass/ammo at a decent price? Also any advice on what kind of press I should get? I've heard that LEE stuff is crap, but I've also heard the opposite. when I start reloading it will manly .45acp, maybe 9mm(depends on if it's worth it), .223, 7.62x39, and .308. My first priorities being .45acp and .223. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
russianblood 0 Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 Berdan primers in common calibers is a waste of time. You can buy empty brass from www.grafs.com or www.midwayusa.com or buy loaded Winchester white box ammo and reload the brass after shooting it. And Lee makes good, inexpensive reloading equipment. It's a very good value for the money and it's easy for new reloaders to learn how to use it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Krom 36 Posted January 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Berdan primers in common calibers is a waste of time. You can buy empty brass from www.grafs.com or www.midwayusa.com or buy loaded Winchester white box ammo and reload the brass after shooting it. And Lee makes good, inexpensive reloading equipment. It's a very good value for the money and it's easy for new reloaders to learn how to use it. Cool thanks for the info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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