bshoop13 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Has anyone had any experiances with duracoat at all? I did a conversion awhile back but temporarily painted the botom with rustoleum. I wanted to paint the whole gun when I put the new trigger guard, FSB and Muzzlebreak on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chase 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I have used it and I like it a lot. It is very forgiving as far as runs and you can apply it with an airbrush or HVLP. The curing can be sped up if you have an oven you can put the parts in or you can just wait until the about 4 or 5 hours depending on temp and humidity. If you order straight from the Duracoat website, they usually get you on shipping, I ordered 4 oz of clear and they charged 12 bucks to ship. If you plan on doing any kind of camo job duracoat stenciles are expensive, try this place http://catalog.bulldogarms.com/index.php?m...p;products_id=4 I am sure someone else will be along with more knowledge and/or better info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I just wanted to do black paint. will bore scrubber and other cleaning solvents damage the paint? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chase 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I just wanted to do black paint. will bore scrubber and other cleaning solvents damage the paint? No, it is very tuff paint. You just want to make sure you let it fully cure. Take your time and do not rush the job. If I were you I would check around for websites that sell the duracoat and see if they have better shipping rates, that is what I am going to do next time I decide to use it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 It will be a couple of weeks before iI have to paint it so I have some time to look around. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 If you want the best possible coating, take your baby somewhere and have it sandblasted and parkerized first. Having a good parkerizing as a base coat for whatever wonder-paint/coating you desire is the best combination. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I just wanted to do black paint. will bore scrubber and other cleaning solvents damage the paint? Bilo, Any surface can be damaged if you try, but I have found that DuraCoat is not damaged at all by most bore cleaners. I just make sure to wipe off anything I get on it. I do get Break-Free CLP (it has some cleaner in it) on it from time to time and even though I don't make a big effort to get it off, it does not hurt the DuraCoat surface. I have read a lot of reports and DuraCoat is right up at the top. It is pricey. If you have a friend who lives nearby or anyone to go in with you to buy the smallest amount. 4 ounces does 1-4 firearms so if you figure they mean 4 handguns that gives you an idea of the area 4 ounces will cover. It will easily do the metal surfaces on 2 Saigas with some touch up paint left over. I hope this helps some. One other thing, the PreVail sprayer with bottle can be purchased in a lot of Sherwin Williams stores for $9-10. It's all you need to spray DuraCoat with and does a super job. louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 If you want the best possible coating, take your baby somewhere and have it sandblasted and parkerized first. Having a good parkerizing as a base coat for whatever wonder-paint/coating you desire is the best combination. I would like to have it parkerized but I dont know anyone in my area that does it and im sure if I can find someone it would cost alot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I just wanted to do black paint. will bore scrubber and other cleaning solvents damage the paint? Bilo, Any surface can be damaged if you try, but I have found that DuraCoat is not damaged at all by most bore cleaners. I just make sure to wipe off anything I get on it. I do get Break-Free CLP (it has some cleaner in it) on it from time to time and even though I don't make a big effort to get it off, it does not hurt the DuraCoat surface. I have read a lot of reports and DuraCoat is right up at the top. It is pricey. If you have a friend who lives nearby or anyone to go in with you to buy the smallest amount. 4 ounces does 1-4 firearms so if you figure they mean 4 handguns that gives you an idea of the area 4 ounces will cover. It will easily do the metal surfaces on 2 Saigas with some touch up paint left over. I hope this helps some. One other thing, the PreVail sprayer with bottle can be purchased in a lot of Sherwin Williams stores for $9-10. It's all you need to spray DuraCoat with and does a super job. louielouie Thats good to Know, thanx. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rockmup 12 Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I just wanted to do black paint. will bore scrubber and other cleaning solvents damage the paint? Yes it will and so will Brake cleaner. For those that are going to call BS, when was the last time you wiped it down with a white rag and looked at it ? Duracote does not like whatever is in both of those Gunkote is a more durable choice IMHOP I use a lot of both and would not worry about using either one. You just need to be careful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Are bake on finishes like durabake or the bake ons from brownells better? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I just wanted to do black paint. will bore scrubber and other cleaning solvents damage the paint? Yes it will and so will Brake cleaner. For those that are going to call BS, when was the last time you wiped it down with a white rag and looked at it ? Duracote does not like whatever is in both of those Gunkote is a more durable choice IMHOP I use a lot of both and would not worry about using either one. You just need to be careful. rockmup' , Why would you use brake cleaner on a newly painted surface? I use it myself to remove cosmolene and crap just before painting but brake cleaner has some very powerful solvents in it, and will mess up almost any painted surface. You can put a ceramic coating on the rifle, but I will go you one better. Why not strip it and re-blue it. I guarantee your Gunkote will break down before my blued finish will. louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 I just wanted to do black paint. will bore scrubber and other cleaning solvents damage the paint? Yes it will and so will Brake cleaner. For those that are going to call BS, when was the last time you wiped it down with a white rag and looked at it ? Duracote does not like whatever is in both of those Gunkote is a more durable choice IMHOP I use a lot of both and would not worry about using either one. You just need to be careful. rockmup' , Why would you use brake cleaner on a newly painted surface? I use it myself to remove cosmolene and crap just before painting but brake cleaner has some very powerful solvents in it, and will mess up almost any painted surface. You can put a ceramic coating on the rifle, but I will go you one better. Why not strip it and re-blue it. I guarantee your Gunkote will break down before my blued finish will. louielouie I dont Know if i wanna get that involved Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Viper5243 2 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 I have had it done on my Beretta pistol and love it. Its rock solid if you do everything right. My S12 is at my gunsmith right now getting H&K sights welded on and when hes done hes doing a Tan/Black Duracoat for me. Ill have pics up on the forum when its done. I cant wait for it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Sounds like the duracoat is the way 2 go. Do you have any pix of the pistol? Edited January 8, 2009 by Bilo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Sounds like the duracoat is the way 2 go. Do you have any pix of the pistol? Bilo, I did a check on Brake Cleaner and found the following info on ingredients: "Composition/Information on Ingredients Component ...% Toluene 22-32 % Methanol 15-25 % Acetone 38-48 % " Toluene and Acetone are both powerful solvents that are used to degrease or REMOVE PAINT. It is great for removing stuff from a blued surface. It is NOT great for removing anything from a coated surface, and you won't find it in a bore cleaner. louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted January 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Sounds like the duracoat is the way 2 go. Do you have any pix of the pistol? Bilo, I did a check on Brake Cleaner and found the following info on ingredients: "Composition/Information on Ingredients Component ...% Toluene 22-32 % Methanol 15-25 % Acetone 38-48 % " Toluene and Acetone are both powerful solvents that are used to degrease or REMOVE PAINT. It is great for removing stuff from a blued surface. It is NOT great for removing anything from a coated surface, and you won't find it in a bore cleaner. louielouie Thanx for the research . I would never use brake cleaner, I didnt think you could do that. I buy the cleaning wipes for the outside and bore srubber for the bore and the gas piston. Any other internal like the FCG, bolt and carrier I use a tooth brush and just your normal gun cleaner and oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rockmup 12 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Sounds like the duracoat is the way 2 go. Do you have any pix of the pistol? Bilo, I did a check on Brake Cleaner and found the following info on ingredients: "Composition/Information on Ingredients Component ...% Toluene 22-32 % Methanol 15-25 % Acetone 38-48 % " Toluene and Acetone are both powerful solvents that are used to degrease or REMOVE PAINT. It is great for removing stuff from a blued surface. It is NOT great for removing anything from a coated surface, and you won't find it in a bore cleaner. louielouie The OP asked about painting a gun. How do you think he's going to clean it after the blasting process ? Most use a solvent under pressure along with compressed air. Duracote will not come out right if you spray it down (the bare metal) with brake cleaner. As well as some of the other solvents. And you need to be careful afterward too. I spray a lot of all kinds of finishes and simply offered an option to Duracote Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Sounds like the duracoat is the way 2 go. Do you have any pix of the pistol? Bilo, I did a check on Brake Cleaner and found the following info on ingredients: "Composition/Information on Ingredients Component ...% Toluene 22-32 % Methanol 15-25 % Acetone 38-48 % " Toluene and Acetone are both powerful solvents that are used to degrease or REMOVE PAINT. It is great for removing stuff from a blued surface. It is NOT great for removing anything from a coated surface, and you won't find it in a bore cleaner. louielouie The OP asked about painting a gun. How do you think he's going to clean it after the blasting process ? Most use a solvent under pressure along with compressed air. Duracote will not come out right if you spray it down (the bare metal) with brake cleaner. As well as some of the other solvents. And you need to be careful afterward too. I spray a lot of all kinds of finishes and simply offered an option to Duracote rockmup', I apologize if I seemed over zealous about defending the DuraCoat. So many guys use spray brake cleaner like Windex, and they don't realize how "hot" it actually is. I used to be a supervisor on a paint line. We used Ketone to cut most of our finishes, but cleaned up with Acetone or sometimes Toluene. These can be very dangerous to your health, and I don't just mean that they can explode, but the fumes can really wreck your brain too. I use Spray Brake Cleaner outside, wearing safety glasses and as I said before, only to cut cosmolene or to degrease right before painting. louielouie I have a serious question for you. Do you ever degrease with acetone before spraying a finnish like GunKote or DuraCoat? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chase 0 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Here is the stock of one of my AR's I did with Duracoat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rockmup 12 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Sounds like the duracoat is the way 2 go. Do you have any pix of the pistol? Bilo, I did a check on Brake Cleaner and found the following info on ingredients: "Composition/Information on Ingredients Component ...% Toluene 22-32 % Methanol 15-25 % Acetone 38-48 % " Toluene and Acetone are both powerful solvents that are used to degrease or REMOVE PAINT. It is great for removing stuff from a blued surface. It is NOT great for removing anything from a coated surface, and you won't find it in a bore cleaner. louielouie The OP asked about painting a gun. How do you think he's going to clean it after the blasting process ? Most use a solvent under pressure along with compressed air. Duracote will not come out right if you spray it down (the bare metal) with brake cleaner. As well as some of the other solvents. And you need to be careful afterward too. I spray a lot of all kinds of finishes and simply offered an option to Duracote rockmup', I apologize if I seemed over zealous about defending the DuraCoat. So many guys use spray brake cleaner like Windex, and they don't realize how "hot" it actually is. I used to be a supervisor on a paint line. We used Ketone to cut most of our finishes, but cleaned up with Acetone or sometimes Toluene. These can be very dangerous to your health, and I don't just mean that they can explode, but the fumes can really wreck your brain too. I use Spray Brake Cleaner outside, wearing safety glasses and as I said before, only to cut cosmolene or to degrease right before painting. louielouie I have a serious question for you. Do you ever degrease with acetone before spraying a finnish like GunKote or DuraCoat? No worries ! And no I have not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blackthorne 2 Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 I have a question about what type of black to get for my Saiga-12. Lauer's Duracoat's webpage has: 92- Rem870 Black 85-Vltor Black 77-Black Oxide 45-Combat Black 41 Gloss Black 5-Semi Gloss Black (HK) 4-Matte Black, and T1-Tactical Black Not to mention, their list of grays look very similar to the blacks, such as: T5-Tactical Extreme Gray 88-Stealth Gray 90-Sig551 Gray 42-Gray Wolf 73-Diamond Plate Deep Gray 44-Combat Gray, and 8-Colt Gray Maybe it's the pictures, but they all look pretty much the same to me. Any suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Here is the stock of one of my AR's I did with Duracoat. Oh thats fucking cool... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bshoop13 0 Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 I did my whole saiga .223 with a matte black durabake and it was pretty damn close to the original. might even be exact but im colorblind so cant be 100% Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Hey guys. This was the most current thread I could find pertaining to Duracoat, so I thought I'd ask here.... I just got my Saiga back from being Duracoated a few days ago. It wasn't baked or anything. I haven't assembled anything yet, but was wondering if waiting a few extra days would benefit the curing process or if I'm good to go. I've got a heat gun that I could use if need be, but that wouldn't be particularly even. Thanks Corbin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DOXtheOX 1 Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 I just got my Saiga back from being Duracoated a few days ago. It wasn't baked or anything. I haven't assembled anything yet, but was wondering if waiting a few extra days would benefit the curing process or if I'm good to go. I've got a heat gun that I could use if need be, but that wouldn't be particularly even. From what I know baking only helps with the initial drying time, not the curing process. You can put it together, I would use a soft lube, not a solvent lube. It will help in the high friction areas- dust cover, safety lever etc... If you don't need the gun for a few days I would say just let it sit disassembled, but there is no need to bake it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rockmup 12 Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 Hey guys. This was the most current thread I could find pertaining to Duracoat, so I thought I'd ask here.... I just got my Saiga back from being Duracoated a few days ago. It wasn't baked or anything. I haven't assembled anything yet, but was wondering if waiting a few extra days would benefit the curing process or if I'm good to go. I've got a heat gun that I could use if need be, but that wouldn't be particularly even. Thanks Corbin Why wasn't it heat cured ? I have no idea how long it takes to cure without heat, 200* for 2hrs is what I shoot for. Without heat curing it is very susceptible to solvents, be very careful. If no durafill was used all the parts can be done in the oven with no fumes. If you have a Gas BBQ that can be used as well for this. Just some food for thought Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frost 0 Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 You could always put it in your attic for a couple of weeks. I have a couple of shotguns that need to be refinished and that is my plan. On a really hot day the attic can potentially get to 150 degrees or so the attic fan people say. I am thinking a couple of weeks of that should fully cure anything that does not require baking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 I emailed the link on Duracoat's website and this is the response I got: You can reassemble a weapon in 24 hours and use it. If you bought DuraBake it must be baked. It will not cure at room temperature. I think the heat gun will not be sufficient for a proper cure throughout the coating. If you bought regular DuraCoat with hardener you are good to go. Thank you Anthony G. Houts Houts Enterprises LLC www.HOUTSENTERPRISES.com Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rockmup 12 Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 (edited) I emailed the link on Duracoat's website and this is the response I got: You can reassemble a weapon in 24 hours and use it. If you bought DuraBake it must be baked. It will not cure at room temperature. I think the heat gun will not be sufficient for a proper cure throughout the coating. If you bought regular DuraCoat with hardener you are good to go. Thank you Anthony G. Houts Houts Enterprises LLC www.HOUTSENTERPRISES.com Well, you know what they say about the real world. lol Some other info since this comes up every now and then. Everyone will do it differently so take it for what its worth. I mix mine 12:1 with no reducer. M.E.K. is hands down the best for cleaning your spray equipment. Acetone will work but not near as well Do not spray outside if its humid. It will not come out right. It gets chalky I am looking for a cleaning solution for pre paint. it would be nice if it could be a bath style. Flash rusting is an issue even with a heated solution. Any ideas ? Edited May 13, 2009 by rockmup Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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