Folkien 0 Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 I emailed the link on Duracoat's website and this is the response I got: You can reassemble a weapon in 24 hours and use it. If you bought DuraBake it must be baked. It will not cure at room temperature. I think the heat gun will not be sufficient for a proper cure throughout the coating. If you bought regular DuraCoat with hardener you are good to go. Thank you Anthony G. Houts Houts Enterprises LLC www.HOUTSENTERPRISES.com Well, you know what they say about the real world. lol Some other info since this comes up every now and then. Everyone will do it differently so take it for what its worth. I mix mine 12:1 with no reducer. M.E.K. is hands down the best for cleaning your spray equipment. Acetone will work but not near as well Do not spray outside if its humid. It will not come out right. It gets chalky I am looking for a cleaning solution for pre paint. it would be nice if it could be a bath style. Flash rusting is an issue even with a heated solution. Any ideas ? I've been doing alot of Duracoating lately, love the stuff as much as ever. +1 to the MEK for cleaning. If you are reducing at any ratio greater than 1:4, use a super fast dry, but low acetone content reducer, otherwise the resin will clump out if you don't stir regularly. Spray lighter than normal. Sherwin Williams R6K9 is what I've always used with anything epoxy based, but it can be hard to find. I've always used brake cleaner for surface prepping, but I had a badly pitted and heavily coated slide a couple weeks back that I gave up on sanding out, so I submerged the whole thing in a bucket of cheapo "aircraft stripper" over night, 'nuff said. If you have a wash basin with a decent air seal, I'd go with that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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