jbauch357 0 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 So I finally get my Shark Brake yesterday, and of course the first thing I do after opening the package is try to put the thing on. I pull the thread protector off the barrel, and start screwing on the shark brake. It goes about 1 1/2 turns then starts to turn harder and harder to the point that I think maybe I have it cross threaded. I pull it off, look at the threads on both barrel and brake, both are straight and all is good. I try a couple more times, same thing - now I'm getting frustrated. So then I flip the brake around so the un-threaded length slides over the barrel ensuring the brake threads are lined up properly, same thing again - now I know it's not a cross threading issue. I go back to trying to install it in the correct orientation and it goes just a little bit further than the last time - but I'm still only getting maybe 2 turns on before it locks up. For the next 30 min or so I lube the threads, thread the thing on until it gets tight, back it off, re-lube and then thread it on until tight again. With this method I would get another 1/8 to 1/4 turn every time, but progress is slowing considerably and pretty much stops once I get to the 5 turns point. It's now to the point where the brake is oriented correctly (with the port holes up) and tight, but it's not all the way down on the threads. I'm afraid with how much effort I've put into it already, if I keep going I'm either going to permanently damage the barrel or the brake. At the same time I'm a bit worried about not having it threaded on all the way. The thread protector that came with the gun still threads on perfectly, every time with no effort. The only thing I can think of is the shark brake is just barely the wrong thread pitch, or maybe the ID was cut a thousandth or so too small? Anybody else have this issue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jaymce 7 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 1) Is it a real Tromix brake? I know there have been some threads about knock offs. 2) If it is then I would contact Tony. He is very helpful to those who are not customers I can not imagine what his customer service level must be like if you make a purchase from him. The problem is more than likely the plating process. Your barrel is probably threaded then sent for plating plating makes the threads smaller if not over cut to account for the finish. Next Tromix (would be my guess) plates parts after the threads are cut. Again making the threads smaller than they are actually. The small amount of plating can then turn into a real bitch when trying to assemble the parts. If you have a tap and die the right pitch might chase the threads. I had to do this on an SKS in order to change the GL to a brake. I would not force the brake on as you might gall the threads and then ruin something. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I would not force the brake on as you might gall the threads and then ruin something. Yes, don't force it. It's possible that you have a defective part. Where was it purchased? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Your barrel is probably threaded then sent for plating plating makes the threads smaller if not over cut to account for the finish. Next Tromix (would be my guess) plates parts after the threads are cut. Again making the threads smaller than they are actually. Actually neither one is plated, they're both painted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbauch357 0 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I ordered the brake from mississippiautoarms and it looks exactly like what tromix pictures on their site - so I don't doubt the authenticity of the brake. The final coating (or painting, whatever it may be) process adding some thickness to the threads is what I suspect is the major issue here. I can actually see the threads clean up as I continually work the brake on and off - but since it continues to get harder I decided to stop and ask the forum. I've also installed the factory thread protector back on the barrel many times and the threads on the barrel itself are still true and clean. I'll see if I can get ahold of Tony today... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I'll see if I can get ahold of Tony today... If you can't get Mel on the phone, just email him. I'll tell him about your thread. I'm sure he'll make it right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbauch357 0 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 No answer on the phone so I shot a mail off with all the info. Tonight I'm starting on the full conversion of the same Saiga 12, so the whole thing is giong to be a work in progress for a couple days anyway... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fenrir 0 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Why not try running a barrel brush hooked up to a drill over/through the treads of the brake to clean up any extra paint? Edited January 13, 2009 by fenrir Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jbauch357 0 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Why not try running a barrel brush hooked up to a drill over/through the treads of the brake to clean up any extra paint? I've learned my lesson about modifying products that I'm having issues with, before instructed to do so by the manufacturer that is. Right now I've got an $85 brake that for some reason I can't get installed properly, if I modify it or damage it and negate the warranty I'll have an $85 paper weight. I'll wait to hear back before working in this portion of the gun any more, I've got other stuff to keep me busy... EDIT: Well, the brake is going back to Tromix and I should have a replacement soon. Tony also thought it sounded like the ID was cut a touch too small, which is a very rare happening (but definately my kind of luck). Great customer service for sure! Edited January 13, 2009 by jbauch357 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fenrir 0 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Why not try running a barrel brush hooked up to a drill over/through the treads of the brake to clean up any extra paint? I've learned my lesson about modifying products that I'm having issues with, before instructed to do so by the manufacturer that is. Right now I've got an $85 brake that for some reason I can't get installed properly, if I modify it or damage it and negate the warranty I'll have an $85 paper weight. I'll wait to hear back before working in this portion of the gun any more, I've got other stuff to keep me busy... EDIT: Well, the brake is going back to Tromix and I should have a replacement soon. Tony also thought it sounded like the ID was cut a touch too small, which is a very rare happening (but definately my kind of luck). Great customer service for sure! Kewl, thanx for the update, a shark brake is on my I want list and if I get the same problem (I have the same kind of luck) I'll know what to do Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Good deal. It's super rare. Thousands of Shark Brakes have been sold to date. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tacey2005 0 Posted January 14, 2009 Report Share Posted January 14, 2009 Same thing happened with mine. I received it yesterday from M.A.A. I forced mine on which I am prone to doing anyway. After threading it on and off a couple of times, it threads on easy now. My factory end-cap still threads on just fine, so luckily I didn't screw anything up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D-H 20 Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I am having a similar problem with my screw on Tromix Shark Brake. It does screw on all the way easily enough, but it ends up being oriented with the two holes facing down instead of up. If I turn it halfway and have the holes facing up like they should, the brake is still loose and I'd like it to stay in place. Anyone else have this problem/know how to remedy it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alpha Kilo 42 Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 You can either use a washer or red loc-tite I think the red loc tite is the preffered method. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 I am having a similar problem with my screw on Tromix Shark Brake. It does screw on all the way easily enough, but it ends up being oriented with the two holes facing down instead of up. If I turn it halfway and have the holes facing up like they should, the brake is still loose and I'd like it to stay in place. Anyone else have this problem/know how to remedy it? This is not the same problem. There is no way that any brake will screw up tight into the proper alignment on a given gun. You have to loctite it in place. Put the loctite on the male end, and screw it as tight as it will go. Loosen until the holes are up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trzeci98 0 Posted January 15, 2009 Report Share Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) I didn't have trouble getting mine on, bought it from maa too. But then again I did have it put on by a gunsmith...barrel cut to ~16.5" then the brake soldered on. Came out nice. Edited January 16, 2009 by Trzeci98 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrwilson 5 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 How about filing the back of the brake until it tightens up tight and properly aligned or using a crush washer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fzr confused 0 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 i just got mine in today and i also bought it from MAA and mine doesnt even get half way...i see how people say do not force it, but then the other guy did. seems this last batch didnt come out right huh? ...i placed my order back in november and it sucks waiting this long and it not working..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cynical 8 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 How about filing the back of the brake until it tightens up tight and properly aligned or using a crush washer? Unless you've added on an AK-style front sight, there is nothing to hold a washer against the brake. Likewise, the back of the brake does not determine how far you can screw it on (unless you've added a front sight), the threads do. There are only a few ways you can index and secure a muzzle device on an S-12: Loc-tite or similar thread locker solder/braze/weld it on set screws or pins tighten against a front sight, preferably with a crush washer tighten against a muzzle nut (like what dinzag sells) #1 is the simplest and easiest to do. #2 is permanent and takes a professional. #3 will never happen on any gun I own if I can help it. However, 4 & 5 allow for a less-permanent attachment. I'm planning on that approach so I can keep a brake on my gun normally, but swap it out for a choke if I want to scare the hell out of the local trap & skeet shooters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
flclisgreat 0 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Same thing happened with mine. I received it yesterday from M.A.A. I forced mine on which I am prone to doing anyway. After threading it on and off a couple of times, it threads on easy now. My factory end-cap still threads on just fine, so luckily I didn't screw anything up. same for me. got mine today, screwed on tight. forced it till it wouldn't go any more, then unscrewed it to "time" it. its snug and not moving and that's how i intend to leave it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 i just got mine in today and i also bought it from MAA and mine doesnt even get half way...i see how people say do not force it, but then the other guy did. seems this last batch didnt come out right huh? ...i placed my order back in november and it sucks waiting this long and it not working..... It's not a "bad batch". These parts are very critical for fitting; a large diameter with a super-fine thread= worst case scenario. The Tromix parts are CNC machined from steel billet and are very closely controlled. Each one is tested on a jig, but they still have tolerance. The largest tolerance variation is in the barrel diameter, and it doesn't take much for it to cause a problem. IN ANY CASE, Tony will fix any problem with your brake. Contact Tony or Mel by phone or email (not this weekend since they're at the SHOT show) and I guarantee he will make it right. Sorry about your wait for the parts but the election caught everyone by surprise and we are still scrambling to supply the sudden demand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fzr confused 0 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 (edited) i was not intending my post to sound like i was bashing the brake or MAA or anyone, just that it looks a little more common this time. i understand the wait and the reason behind it, a lot of stuff i have bought lately is the same way . this "problem" probably just seems more common now just because there are a ton more people ordering them. i am more than willing to get this worked out and i hold no one or company to blame. it seems where i have twisted the brake on so far the paint is gone, tomorrow i will see if i can get the paint all the way down and maybe that will work, otherwise i will contact tony or mel. Edited January 16, 2009 by fzr confused Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 16, 2009 Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Not a problem, fzr. we will take care of you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fzr confused 0 Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 well after getting my hands all cut up (yes, i know i am a dumb@$$) from trying to tighten it by hand. so i went out and got 1 of those jar opened rubber things and kept tightening and loosening it. i eventually got it all the way on! man, this thing looks SICK! i am looking at cutting the barrel down though and then getting it permanently attached to it. now just to figure out how to convert this to the way i want it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 They're sharper than they look! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kosh 1 Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 For those of us who have very early Kalashnikov USA S12's with no threaded barrel, where would one acquire the necessary die set (assuming that I can verify that M22 x .75 RH is the correct setting)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kingjoey 5 Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 For those of us who have very early Kalashnikov USA S12's with no threaded barrel, where would one acquire the necessary die set (assuming that I can verify that M22 x .75 RH is the correct setting)? I have a couple dies enroute from Poland (still waiting ), as soon as they arrive we will make them available on our loaner program. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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