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I picked up a .308 Saiga recently. It's a 22in barrel model, came with wood stock..shoots real well. I've been looking at the conversion instructions that were used on a '39 and there are a few differences from my .308 that have me puzzled. My trigger is one piece without a separate axle to drill out. Looks like there is no hole precut for the pistol grip nut, there are two spot welds in the plate on the bottom next to the trigger.

 

Has anyone put together a set of instructions for this model Saiga? I could start grinding and probably get it done but it would be better to have more info.

 

 

 

Thanks, Alex

Edited by alex4922
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Right what nissantech said, do a search on the conversion process.

... also search on specifically 308 conversions issues...

The .308 is different in that it does not have the two "drill out rivits/welds" that are on

the typical conversion process for the other calibers.

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you need to use the search engine to find all the info on the conversion. I performed my first one 1 week ago and it is not hard. do the research and then ask questions.

 

Yeah, I have been through a lot of the instructions around, but again... all I have seen are based on the 7.62x39 or the .223. The differences with the .308 are probably to the good.

 

I know you guys probably get tired of seeing the same ol questions so often.

 

I'll keep looking.

 

Thanks A

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I picked up a .308 Saiga recently. It's a 22in barrel model, came with wood stock..shoots real well. I've been looking at the conversion instructions that were used on a '39 and there are a few differences from my .308 that have me puzzled. My trigger is one piece without a separate axle to drill out. Looks like there is no hole precut for the pistol grip nut, there are two spot welds in the plate on the bottom next to the trigger.

 

Has anyone put together a set of instructions for this model Saiga? I could start grinding and probably get it done but it would be better to have more info.

 

 

 

Thanks, Alex

 

With the Saiga .308, the factory FCG can be removed without drilling. Just disengage the retaining wire and push the pins out. Once the factory FCG is removed, look for the PG nut hole from the inside. It may or may not be there, but it is much easier to tell looking from the inside with the factory trigger removed. If the PG nut is not there, you will have to cut it yourself, or you can use the special trigger guard from SaigaTech.

 

Removing the bottom plate is simply a matter of grinding/drilling spot-welds/rivets and popping the plate off with a small cold chisel.

 

For a replacement FCG, I highly recommend the .308-specific FCG from Dinzag. Good luck!

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Ok, I went out to the range today and fired some pretty good groups with my Saiga. I was fighting that bloody trigger all the way though. When I got home I stripped the rifle again looking at the holes that were already cut in the reciever. Well...one thing led to another and before I knew it I had the dremmel out and was grinding away.

 

So.. I got the bottom plate off without too much trouble in fact much easier than I thought. Somehow I didn't even mess up the trigger guard. The pistol grip nut hole has not been cut...yet.

 

I'm looking to ordering the fire control group from Dinzag Hogdog recomended.

 

 

Thanks, Alex

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Ok, I went out to the range today and fired some pretty good groups with my Saiga. I was fighting that bloody trigger all the way though. When I got home I stripped the rifle again looking at the holes that were already cut in the reciever. Well...one thing led to another and before I knew it I had the dremmel out and was grinding away.

 

So.. I got the bottom plate off without too much trouble in fact much easier than I thought. Somehow I didn't even mess up the trigger guard. The pistol grip nut hole has not been cut...yet.

 

I'm looking to ordering the fire control group from Dinzag Hogdog recomended.

 

 

Thanks, Alex

hey alex I just finished mine this past weekend and had a ball doing it. Its very easy when it comes to cutting out the PG nut hole I used a spread sheet on the computer typed in the measurements (i got from cross con). Used those to measure and draw where i needed to start cutting. Easy. I just recommend getting all your parts first waiting for stuff to come in drove me mad
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Ok, I went out to the range today and fired some pretty good groups with my Saiga. I was fighting that bloody trigger all the way though. When I got home I stripped the rifle again looking at the holes that were already cut in the reciever. Well...one thing led to another and before I knew it I had the dremmel out and was grinding away.

 

So.. I got the bottom plate off without too much trouble in fact much easier than I thought. Somehow I didn't even mess up the trigger guard. The pistol grip nut hole has not been cut...yet.

 

I'm looking to ordering the fire control group from Dinzag Hogdog recomended.

 

 

Thanks, Alex

hey alex I just finished mine this past weekend and had a ball doing it. Its very easy when it comes to cutting out the PG nut hole I used a spread sheet on the computer typed in the measurements (i got from cross con). Used those to measure and draw where i needed to start cutting. Easy. I just recommend getting all your parts first waiting for stuff to come in drove me mad

 

Yes, waiting for parts can be very frustrating. That may be the one downside to getting the FCG from Dinzag. He is so busy now that getting one may take awhile. In my opinion, it is worth waiting for an FCG that you know will be a "drop-in" assembly, work just right from the outset, and be SAFE.

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I picked up a .308 Saiga recently. It's a 22in barrel model, came with wood stock..shoots real well. I've been looking at the conversion instructions that were used on a '39 and there are a few differences from my .308 that have me puzzled. My trigger is one piece without a separate axle to drill out. Looks like there is no hole precut for the pistol grip nut, there are two spot welds in the plate on the bottom next to the trigger.

 

Has anyone put together a set of instructions for this model Saiga? I could start grinding and probably get it done but it would be better to have more info.

 

 

 

Thanks, Alex

 

With the Saiga .308, the factory FCG can be removed without drilling. Just disengage the retaining wire and push the pins out. Once the factory FCG is removed, look for the PG nut hole from the inside. It may or may not be there, but it is much easier to tell looking from the inside with the factory trigger removed. If the PG nut is not there, you will have to cut it yourself, or you can use the special trigger guard from SaigaTech.

 

Removing the bottom plate is simply a matter of grinding/drilling spot-welds/rivets and popping the plate off with a small cold chisel.

 

For a replacement FCG, I highly recommend the .308-specific FCG from Dinzag. Good luck!

 

 

Okay I have a question. Is moving the trigger guard just too get the pistol grip in? I installed a M4 6 Position Collapsible stock set with pistol grip from Mississippi Auto Arms, no mods required.

 

http://www.mississippiautoarms.com/index.p...products_id=124

 

If I want to install the dinzag FCG do I still have to move the trigger guard or will it drop in? What I really need to know the purpose of moving the trigger guard. I did research the forum but some reference the FCG and some the pistol grip.

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I picked up a .308 Saiga recently. It's a 22in barrel model, came with wood stock..shoots real well. I've been looking at the conversion instructions that were used on a '39 and there are a few differences from my .308 that have me puzzled. My trigger is one piece without a separate axle to drill out. Looks like there is no hole precut for the pistol grip nut, there are two spot welds in the plate on the bottom next to the trigger.

 

Has anyone put together a set of instructions for this model Saiga? I could start grinding and probably get it done but it would be better to have more info.

 

 

 

Thanks, Alex

 

With the Saiga .308, the factory FCG can be removed without drilling. Just disengage the retaining wire and push the pins out. Once the factory FCG is removed, look for the PG nut hole from the inside. It may or may not be there, but it is much easier to tell looking from the inside with the factory trigger removed. If the PG nut is not there, you will have to cut it yourself, or you can use the special trigger guard from SaigaTech.

 

Removing the bottom plate is simply a matter of grinding/drilling spot-welds/rivets and popping the plate off with a small cold chisel.

 

For a replacement FCG, I highly recommend the .308-specific FCG from Dinzag. Good luck!

 

 

Okay I have a question. Is moving the trigger guard just too get the pistol grip in? I installed a M4 6 Position Collapsible stock set with pistol grip from Mississippi Auto Arms, no mods required.

 

http://www.mississippiautoarms.com/index.p...products_id=124

 

If I want to install the dinzag FCG do I still have to move the trigger guard or will it drop in? What I really need to know the purpose of moving the trigger guard. I did research the forum but some reference the FCG and some the pistol grip.

 

 

Most people are not happy with the "elongated" trigger setup on the 308 rifle. You utilized the combo butt stock with the PG incorporated. With that, you CAN'T install the modified tirgger setup (forward) unless you've got R E A L L Y LONG FINGERS.

The springy/sheet metal trigger on the factory 308 is one of the reasons most convert to a standard PG, modified FCG (forward), modified/moved trigger guard, etc. etc. etc.

 

Some even leave the standard butt stock on, with the newly installed FCG and PG and moved trigger guard..(instead of installing a new collapsible or folding stock)....

 

Luck

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My buddy converted his 308 by welding a trigger onto the factory trigger after cutting off the elongated portion. He did this like 5 or 6 years ago when Saiga 308s were new to the market and there wasn't the aftermarket support that there is today.

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I picked up a .308 Saiga recently. It's a 22in barrel model, came with wood stock..shoots real well. I've been looking at the conversion instructions that were used on a '39 and there are a few differences from my .308 that have me puzzled. My trigger is one piece without a separate axle to drill out. Looks like there is no hole precut for the pistol grip nut, there are two spot welds in the plate on the bottom next to the trigger.

 

Has anyone put together a set of instructions for this model Saiga? I could start grinding and probably get it done but it would be better to have more info.

 

 

 

Thanks, Alex

 

With the Saiga .308, the factory FCG can be removed without drilling. Just disengage the retaining wire and push the pins out. Once the factory FCG is removed, look for the PG nut hole from the inside. It may or may not be there, but it is much easier to tell looking from the inside with the factory trigger removed. If the PG nut is not there, you will have to cut it yourself, or you can use the special trigger guard from SaigaTech.

 

Removing the bottom plate is simply a matter of grinding/drilling spot-welds/rivets and popping the plate off with a small cold chisel.

 

For a replacement FCG, I highly recommend the .308-specific FCG from Dinzag. Good luck!

 

 

Okay I have a question. Is moving the trigger guard just too get the pistol grip in? I installed a M4 6 Position Collapsible stock set with pistol grip from Mississippi Auto Arms, no mods required.

 

http://www.mississippiautoarms.com/index.p...products_id=124

 

If I want to install the dinzag FCG do I still have to move the trigger guard or will it drop in? What I really need to know the purpose of moving the trigger guard. I did research the forum but some reference the FCG and some the pistol grip.

 

 

Most people are not happy with the "elongated" trigger setup on the 308 rifle. You utilized the combo butt stock with the PG incorporated. With that, you CAN'T install the modified tirgger setup (forward) unless you've got R E A L L Y LONG FINGERS.

The springy/sheet metal trigger on the factory 308 is one of the reasons most convert to a standard PG, modified FCG (forward), modified/moved trigger guard, etc. etc. etc.

 

Some even leave the standard butt stock on, with the newly installed FCG and PG and moved trigger guard..(instead of installing a new collapsible or folding stock)....

 

Luck

 

Why do you have to move the trigger set up forward to install a Dinzag FCG? What prevents just switching it out with the existing FCG? Is it different size or make contact with something unless you move it forward?

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I picked up a .308 Saiga recently. It's a 22in barrel model, came with wood stock..shoots real well. I've been looking at the conversion instructions that were used on a '39 and there are a few differences from my .308 that have me puzzled. My trigger is one piece without a separate axle to drill out. Looks like there is no hole precut for the pistol grip nut, there are two spot welds in the plate on the bottom next to the trigger.

 

Has anyone put together a set of instructions for this model Saiga? I could start grinding and probably get it done but it would be better to have more info.

 

 

 

Thanks, Alex

 

With the Saiga .308, the factory FCG can be removed without drilling. Just disengage the retaining wire and push the pins out. Once the factory FCG is removed, look for the PG nut hole from the inside. It may or may not be there, but it is much easier to tell looking from the inside with the factory trigger removed. If the PG nut is not there, you will have to cut it yourself, or you can use the special trigger guard from SaigaTech.

 

Removing the bottom plate is simply a matter of grinding/drilling spot-welds/rivets and popping the plate off with a small cold chisel.

 

For a replacement FCG, I highly recommend the .308-specific FCG from Dinzag. Good luck!

 

 

Okay I have a question. Is moving the trigger guard just too get the pistol grip in? I installed a M4 6 Position Collapsible stock set with pistol grip from Mississippi Auto Arms, no mods required.

 

http://www.mississippiautoarms.com/index.p...products_id=124

 

If I want to install the dinzag FCG do I still have to move the trigger guard or will it drop in? What I really need to know the purpose of moving the trigger guard. I did research the forum but some reference the FCG and some the pistol grip.

 

 

Most people are not happy with the "elongated" trigger setup on the 308 rifle. You utilized the combo butt stock with the PG incorporated. With that, you CAN'T install the modified tirgger setup (forward) unless you've got R E A L L Y LONG FINGERS.

The springy/sheet metal trigger on the factory 308 is one of the reasons most convert to a standard PG, modified FCG (forward), modified/moved trigger guard, etc. etc. etc.

 

Some even leave the standard butt stock on, with the newly installed FCG and PG and moved trigger guard..(instead of installing a new collapsible or folding stock)....

 

Luck

 

Why do you have to move the trigger set up forward to install a Dinzag FCG? What prevents just switching it out with the existing FCG? Is it different size or make contact with something unless you move it forward?

 

The factory .308 trigger has a sheet metal extension welded on, plus the non-standard back-swept trigger itself, to reach back to the factory trigger slot. Dinzag's .308-specific FCG is made to be mounted in the standard position for an AK, which is well forward of the factory trigger slot position.

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Get yourself a PSL / Romanian Dragunov stock if you don't want to cut the pistol grip nut hole. As an added benefit, it includes a recoil plate that will make your Saiga .308 a lot more pleasant to shoot.

 

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=122569974

 

Once you get it, sand, stain, and install. It only uses 2 screws to install. You MAY have to slightly relieve the hole in your rear trunion to get the screw in, but doing so will have ZERO effect on securely mounting other stocks and will not be visible with the screw in. Effectively this will turn your Saiga into a very close match for the PSL. It may or may not be as accurate (some .308's are 1 MOA, others are up to 2 MOA). The only thing lacking is a good brake.

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