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Another trigger question.


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My main question concerns the trigger. Looking at the action I am wondering if anyone has tried drilling and tapping the top foreword area of the trigger to accommodate a set screw and apply a downward preload onto the "extension rod?" to reduce take up slack? I am hoping this is feasible and does not affect the disconnector. I want to try this and some general polishing to get the trigger into the 4 pound range with a lot less movement. If anyone has comments or suggestions I would appreciate them. I would rather hear it cannot be done than to take it all apart to find out.

I do not want to move the trigger group or put a pistol grip on the rifle.

I have the 7.62 from CDNN with a Tasco PPD2 mounted on the gas tube. I like the setup for quick shots. Does anyone have any other suggestions for inexpensive improvements on one of these?

 

Thank for any info!

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gkp, the polishing may help, but the real problem with the Saiga is the linkage. From everthing I have heard and experienced, the only way to really improve this is to got with the conversion and install a new fcg like Red Star's.

I have a 20" 7.62 that has improved with time as well as a new 16" 223 that I plan on doing conversions on. Parts have been ordered.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Good luck.

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I think the long linkage will alway be sloppy feeling because of the springiness of the stamping. The RSA trigger might help some with some adjustment, but you will have to modify the trigger by removing some metal to get it to fit. At $90, I don't know that the improvement will be worth the expense.

 

You might want to focus your efforts at improving the engagement interface. The mechanics of the trigger-to-transfer bar seem awful rudimentary to my untrained eye. I feel like if you could improve that design, you will have most of the problem licked. After that, you need to machine a lightweight transfer bar out of a stiffer material, and you should be good to go. It is going to take some thought, though.

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Someone on the Ak47.net had a diagram like that quite a few months back where they did exactly what you said. I guess it worked, if you had the time, money and spare trigger parts you would probably be safe in expirementing. I don't know if a "search" on the site will bring it up as it has been quite awhile. They had a diagram with measurements.

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Found it. Thanks! I will work on it this weekend.

 

I have schematics but I am having problems, my computer will not copy and paste to forum. I would like to get schematics copy to sight would be big help.

* Note: This is how I improved my rifles. A knowledgeable person should only accomplish this. IF you can accomplish the job, your self. You will save lots of money. BE SAFE!

How I Tuned 5 Saiga hunting rifle (308,223,and 7.62). * Equipment needed; rifle, #36 drill bit, 6x32 or 40 or setscrew, and tap, In addition, fine thin stone, wet and dry sandpaper, drill press, punch set, nut w/6x32 or 40 thread, JB weld or blue / red lock tight, hammer proper lbs., and clean area to work. In addition, other tools you feel you need. Use lock tight on all screws. Check screw, bits, and taps at store for proper size before purchase.

* Rifle (223,7.62cal.); remove hammer, and trigger pack, leave trigger and lever in rifle. (If possible) Disassemble trigger pack polish primary and secondary-disconnect and hammer sear. Where the spring set in the body trigger pack go across and back to drill a hole not to close to edge and tap hole back off tap so it does not brake and tap from the bottom reassemble. (Setscrew 6x32 or 40x3/16). The secondary-disconnect should not bottom out on corner or setscew if drilled write will not hit at all so the secondary disconnect will have free movement and release the hammer. "Working on this style of trigger adj." On back of trigger body there's two support arms. Make block w/taped hole for setscrew. Two whole length ways on block for roll pins/solid pins or screws "tap block" (four short pins 2 on ea. side or 2 pins all the way threw). Saiga 7.62x39/223 cal. Mount block high in support arms. Standard AK-trigger mounts low in support arms. Let you control over travel. (Adj. Block thickness may need to be half or as high as support arms). Note # I am going to put an adj. Screw on end of secondary disconnect arm. Then when I set setscrew on trigger body so secondary disc. Hook holds hammer by half or gtr. of hook then back off the setscew on secondary disc. Until it releases the hammer w/ little space between secondary disc. And hammer. What I am hope for is to control trigger pull weight.

* Rifle 308; remove hammer and trigger pack polish same as above parts. Two ways to do set screw. One way is the same as above (instead of # 6 screw will need one size smaller). Second is easier is on the trigger arm there is an indent. Drill hole in center of indent. Set screw needs to screw in hole not fall threw then snug nut down and make adjustments then loosen nut and add, JB weld or (less mess red/blue lock tight under nut and inside indent around screw). spread around nut from side to side go no higher then nut (sand area first remove bluing). Let dry then reassemble.

* Setscrew adjustment, screws in until secondary-disconnect holds hammer back w/o trigger being held back. Back off setscrew until hammer falls from secondary disconnect then, give extra 1/4 to 1/2" turn. You want a little space between secondary disconnects and hammer so secondary disconnect will release every time. This helps shorten over travel of trigger pull.

* Note: Check safety for proper function and adjust tab as need. A little goes along way. If you go too far fix is easy. If steel can handle be welded and you have the equipment good if not, cut off a 1/8" part of the tab to the base of the arm. Drilled a 1/8" hole almost all the way threw. 1/8" spring wire silver solder inn hole and to rest of the tab left on the base cut off most wire and started all over on fitting the safety. You can drill and pin 1/8" spring wire in hole or drill a hole all way threw and thread hole and use setscrew w/ lock tight.

* Note: If you mess up your trigger body on 7.62x39 or 223rem. mdl. Buy an AK- trigger set and remove trigger from body.

* Brass saver (reloads): 3/8" fuel line hose, 1" long cut length ways two pieces rivet one piece to the dust cover w/ 1/8 to 3/16 of rubber past ejector port. Put rivet on from outside of dust cover and check for drag on bolt carrier.

* Butt stock: Hollow sound in butt stock. Remove butt plate fill w/ spray foam 3/4 full let dry. Trims off extra replace butt plate.

* Forearm: Help cooling of barrel. Need 7/16" drill bit w/ center point inn drill bit and masking tape. Putt tape on topsides of forearm. With small adjustable square come down 1/2" and draw line across forearm. Find center of forearm & mark (do not cut into or go past metal braces in forearm). From center mark, make two more marks 1" apart on ea. Side total: five holes center to center.

Titan up forearm in receiver. Front bottom or receiver is a hole (mark tang part of the forearm through the hole. Remove and drill to proper size. (Screw/nut or spring nut #10 x70 pitch) use what works for you. Remove some material from top of tang nut fit snug strong glue and glue in nut. Best way is to use a counter sink bit and make it large enough hole in bottom of tang for spring nut (flat sheet metal) to almost fit flush use lock washer w/screw and snug only. Under barrel, there is a forearm guide pin. Check to see if centered if not tap it. Install forearm and remove material that contacts barrel.

* Front sight w/ finer point of aim. Remove put in drill press chuck snug. With fine file make a taper at end of sight post. Touch up w/fine sandpaper. Install / blue.

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