SanSacto 1 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I am planning a pistol grip conversion for my Saiga-308. I was going to order the SaigaTech trigger guard plate for $49, which has the pistol grip mount included. However, Dinzag Arms updated its website recently, and now offers pistol grip conversion kits for $29. These kits include a trigger guard along with bolts, screws, center punch, drill bits, allen wrench, and hole plugs. Would there be any difference in the difficulty of the conversion if I pick one over the other? If I choose the Dinzag Arms pistol grip conversion kit, I would have to paint or touch up the area under the trigger guard. I know I would also have to purchase a pistol grip nut and screw. But the pistol grip nut just drops in on the Saiga-308 without modification, correct? Other than that is the SaigaTech trigger guard plate really worth it? Thanks for the input! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yellowcarbon 4 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I am glad you posted this, because I was about to order a Saigatech trigger guard. The Danzig one is a pretty good value in that that drill bits and side plugs come with it, even though you don't need the plugs on the 308 conversion. Fortunely for me, I can use them on a Saiga-12 conversion I am doing. With either set, you will need to refinish the lower section of the reciever. So it really is a wash there. The thing I really like about the Danzig one is that you can use the ACE internal block with it since it uses the pistol grip screw block as a mounting point. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanSacto 1 Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 I am glad you posted this, because I was about to order a Saigatech trigger guard. The Danzig one is a pretty good value in that that drill bits and side plugs come with it, even though you don't need the plugs on the 308 conversion. Fortunely for me, I can use them on a Saiga-12 conversion I am doing. With either set, you will need to refinish the lower section of the reciever. So it really is a wash there. The thing I really like about the Danzig one is that you can use the ACE internal block with it since it uses the pistol grip screw block as a mounting point. Yeah, it does look like I will have to refinish the lower section of the receiver either way I go. I am not planning on using an ACE internal block. However I just realized that if I do not get the SaigaTech trigger guard plate, I will have to cut out a hole for the pistol grip nut. I do not want to do this at all, so I am goint to get the SaigaTech trigger guard plate. So the SaigaTech trigger guard plate does not come inished, correct? It comes in unfinished steel? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 ...The thing I really like about the Danzig one is that you can use the ACE internal block with it since it uses the pistol grip screw block as a mounting point. You can use the Ace Internal Block with any of the trigger guards. You will just have to cut a small relief in it. This takes about 20 minutes with a Dremel and a hand drill. If this is beyond your mechanical abilities, I understand, but it is one of the easier parts of the "conversion." ... So the SaigaTech trigger guard plate does not come inished, correct? It comes in unfinished steel? Nope, it it unfinished. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WILLIEVEE 15 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I've used both vendors and both have great products and outstanding service. I have not had the chance to use Dinzags trigger guard, but have used SaigaTechs on two of my s-12's and love them and used Dinzags front sight. I think you can't go wrong with either one, both stand by their work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdeitch 32 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) I have the Saigatech PG conversion piece on my personal Saiga 12. I really like the build quality and the solid mounting. Not to mention the built-in safety stop. (You will need to fabricate one once you remove the factory part.) I bought the 'steel AK' version because of its flexibility to mount different style grips. I have tried a generic AK 'soft' grip, a TAPCO SAW and the CAA UPG47. All of these fit perfectly. I decided to go with the CAA UPG47. Great feel. Awesome quality! Nothing like TAPCO stuff. Edited February 11, 2009 by JeffD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Let's compare the Saigatech plate to Dinzag's conversion set. Dinzag's set has: -A cobalt drill bit to drill out the "sporter trigger and hammer axles". -Nylon plugs to fill the old trigger and hammer axle holes. -A centerpunch to use on the rivets to get a good "divot" before you drill. -A cobalt drill bit to drill out the rivets. - A cobalt drill bit to drill a hole for the front trigger guard screw. - the "original shaped trigger guard" sprayed with DuraCoat - two screws and nuts for the trigger guard (with allen wrench) - Plus you get Dinzag's great customer service. Now you say it doesn't allow for the pistol grip, well what if I told you, [b]I found an easy way to avoid cutting a pistol grip hole. [/b] All you have to do is let the pistol grip screw pass through the old trigger guard hole (that is already cut and not used after the conversion). I put this photo in so you could see the actual difference between the screw passing through the PG hole or the old trigger hole. Then just put a 6mm nut on the screw to hold the pistol grip down. You can pick one up at any hardware place. Get one of the nuts that has "rounded corners" on the top (like a lock nut or there are many others). Then as you tighten the nut, keep pressure on the pistol grip toward the trigger guard. The screw and nut will find the best angle by themselves because of the rounded corners on the nut. The pistol grip is held firmly in front where the trigger guards fits into the recess in the pistol grip and it is held "down" by the pistol grip screw through the trigger hole. I have had mine like this for months and it has not moved or loosened. The only thing you may encounter is your stock hitting the nut. It may hit it right in the bottom middle of the stock. This happened to me on my K-Var stock. All you do is take a wood rasp (or any grinding tool) and remove about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of material from the bottom center of your stock. Just a big "notch". Took me 5 minutes with a wood rasp. Then the stock came forward all the way. If you use my "pistol grip hold down method" you will need a 10-cent nut. Just my thoughts on the matter. louielouie Edited February 12, 2009 by louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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