Williespeed 0 Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 Anybody use the Dura coat System? How good is it compared to paint or hot coat? (automotive finish) any experience with the DIY stripe or camo kits? I am looking at the Am stripe kit for my conversion any first hand accounts would be appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kingjoey 5 Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 It works really well, but is best when used over parkerizing. When we Duracoat guns/parts here we sandblast the parts, parkerize them, then apply the Duracoat. The parkerizing acts like a primer and makes the finish much stronger. Duracoat on bare metal kinda sucks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kingjoey 5 Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 Here's a crappy pic of our Savage demo gun, the 'ghost' camo Duracoat job on this is done in about 12 layers and changes color/reflectivity depending on how bright/dark the ambient light is. Its a PITA, but its a good example of what you can do with Duracoat and enough practice/patience Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mini14jac 1 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Do a search over at ar15.com, in the Refinishing section. One guy took a Duracoated K-var handguard, and used over a dozen different solvents on it, and the Duracoat held up. Seems like one of the best options according to the guys over there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gr8santini 13 Posted February 28, 2009 Report Share Posted February 28, 2009 Do a search over at ar15.com, in the Refinishing section. One guy took a Duracoated K-var handguard, and used over a dozen different solvents on it, and the Duracoat held up. Seems like one of the best options according to the guys over there. It's very durable and very easy to use if you take the time to prep and follow the instructions carefully. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 I use it over sandblasted metal often, and it's been fine. Blast with sand or aluminum oxide, though, not glass beads. The rougher surface will be better. I cheat, and bake it on, as I don't want to wait two weeks. One hour at somewhere between 150-170 degrees, and it's GTG. I've done a few of their template patterns also. They work, but the templates are not reuseable, despite what they say. You gotta clear coat the job, because the different colors will all have a different sheen, and sand lightly (very lightly) the color edges because there will be visible and felt edge ridges. I actually prefer to do freehand patterns. They're not sharply defined, but I think they look more real, and no ridges at the color edges. Also, you don't have to clean off the glue the template leaves behind before clearcoating. Just my .02, YMMV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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