Saiga 308 Converstion Result and Notes

[quatin 0]

Thanks to everyone who posted information about their conversions. I've just completed my first saiga .308 conversion using DinzagArms as my parts supplier. In hindsight, I have several notes for others who may be researching their first conversion for the saiga .308.

 

- Do not drill through the retaining pins. The retaining pins are held in place by a retaining spring that you need to remove. Everyone keep saying 308 conversion is similar to the 7.62 conversion, but not exactly what is different. This the key difference and also the first step.

- If you buy the DinzagArms special .308 FCG, you do NOT need to buy a disconnector spring. The disconnector spring is provided and already assembled.

- If you buy Tapco pistol grips (In my case the SAW grip) you do NOT need to buy a pistol grip screw, it is provided for you inside the grip.

- You do NOT need to buy a retaining plate, pins or spring. There is a retaining spring already in the rifle.

- A dremel tool would save you hours of work. Although you can use a hand file (which I did), spending $50 on a dremel tool would save you hours of filing.

- Attempting to drill through the spot welds is difficult. It may be faster for you to just dremel/file down the two spot welds on the receiver plate and pry off what's left.

- Carbide drill bits are a must, normal steel bits do nothing to the receiver plate.

- Use sand paper to remove all the crud on the bottom of the receiver after removing the plate before you apply paint.

- The plastic hole pins from DinzagArms does not fit into the only remaining hole you should have (it's in front of the trigger guard and behind the mag release switch).

I need to go to home depot to find something that will fit in there.

- Use blue LocTite or something similar on the pistol grip lug as it can shake loose from firing.

Here's my finished rifle!

Edited April 10, 2009 by quatin

[Cryogaijin 33]

Excellent writeup. Only two questions I have about it is "can I still use my Tapco t-6 stock+pistol grip?" and "Does it move the rear screw, to mess up my picitinny rail?"

[308Mike 0]

Excellent writeup. Only two questions I have about it is "can I still use my Tapco t-6 stock+pistol grip?" and "Does it move the rear screw, to mess up my picitinny rail?"

 

I'm guessing you have the Tapco intrafuse and yes you can still use it but the stock will still be long and you will have to close it all the way to get to the pistol grip / trigger... the rail you have installed using the rear stock mounting screw will be fine

[Cryogaijin 33]

Hrrm. That makes converting more attractive. . .

[bobby45512 0]

Are there any limits to what pistol grips we can use? I was thinking of going with a grip found on the galil. Any limits as far as stock that can be used and where did you purchase your stock?

Edited April 8, 2009 by bobby45512

[quatin 0]

Are there any limits to what pistol grips we can use? I was thinking of going with a grip found on the galil. Any limits as far as stock that can be used and where did you purchase your stock?

 

I ordered everything from DinzagArms. They have a couple options of 3rd party furniture they will order for you (Mine is all TAPCO). As far as limitations, you may not find everything to be drop in, but I'm sure with a little modification you can get it to fit. After conversion, there is no change to how the butt stock will be inserted. If it fits into your rifle now it will fit after you convert. The pistol grip is held in place by a single(I want to say 3/8'') screw.

 

Also as a side note. DinzagArms is overwhelmed with orders and it will take a month or two for you to get parts.

[captbkw 0]

nice looking looking to convert mine but can't find any parts seen a website that sold whole conversion kit g2 trigger nato stock everthing at one price can't find it now ,can't find any parts everbody must be buying.

[XXasdf 29]

I was holding out for KVAR to restock their NATO stocks before I do my conversion. But this gives me a little more confidence in converting. I had been looking locally for a smith to do this for me but one refused to do trigger work and the other is moving his shop. I guess I'm SOL so I will attempt to do this myself this weekend wish me luck.

Edited April 10, 2009 by XXasdf

[quatin 0]

Converting a .308 is really not difficult. If you can put furniture together you can make a successful conversion. People keep asking, but I got all my parts through a bulk order from www.dinzagarms.com. You can order everything you need including carbide drill bits from them, but it will take 1-2 months since they are behind on orders.

[captbkw 0]

i am going to try yo convert my 308 also , keep hereing bad things about G2 trigger an of course i got one on order only thing thing i will have trouble with BHO not sure about that time will tell . probaly sell it for scrap

[quatin 0]

i am going to try yo convert my 308 also , keep hereing bad things about G2 trigger an of course i got one on order only thing thing i will have trouble with BHO not sure about that time will tell . probaly sell it for scrap

The BHO is not hard to figure out, the real problem is you need 3 hands and a tentacle to get it back in. You can use tricks from the following tutorial to get it assembled. Feel free to PM me if you have trouble.

 

[G O B 3,516]

I assemble the BHO first, on a pin punch from the right side. Then put the other parts in using the pin punch to capture them. Push the pin punch out with the axis pin from the left.

[XXasdf 29]

I finally finished converting today, I did run into some trouble tho. I am having some trouble drilling the holes needed for the triggerguard. I've gone through 5 bits today and only got one of the two holes I needed drilled. Also when I put the safety lever back on it doesnt clear the top of the trigger group, did anyone else have this problem? I still have the fugly factory stock on it too unfortunately but I'll post some pics once I've finalized it.

[quatin 0]

I finally finished converting today, I did run into some trouble tho. I am having some trouble drilling the holes needed for the triggerguard. I've gone through 5 bits today and only got one of the two holes I needed drilled. Also when I put the safety lever back on it doesnt clear the top of the trigger group, did anyone else have this problem? I still have the fugly factory stock on it too unfortunately but I'll post some pics once I've finalized it.

 

You need carbide drill bits. Also, you only really need 1 screw for the trigger guard. The second screw inside the mag release well is unnecessary unless you plan on hammering on your trigger guard. As for the safety lever, have you placed the hammer springs and cocked the hammer before attempting to install the lever?

[oxyehho 8]

I finally finished converting today, I did run into some trouble tho. I am having some trouble drilling the holes needed for the triggerguard. I've gone through 5 bits today and only got one of the two holes I needed drilled. Also when I put the safety lever back on it doesnt clear the top of the trigger group, did anyone else have this problem? I still have the fugly factory stock on it too unfortunately but I'll post some pics once I've finalized it.

You need to pull the trigger for lever to clear, unless you got RSA FCG, then you have to cut away a piece of it per RSA instructions. Took me less than 5 mins.

[XXasdf 29]

Thanks for the advice solved both problems. Now all thats left to do is refinish the bottom of the receiver and add a new stock. I'll post some pics as soon as I'm done with it. Took it to the range yesterday and trigger pull is much smoother and feels very comfortable.