Dirty 4 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Mitt, I started thinking of your question about tap size. The writing on mine is 6-32 NC. I'm sure that with a little research you can find the next size up, and get a drill bit and screw to match. I know that your not the first to have this situation. Once you get it figured out it could be good info for the next guy in your situation. Seems to me, that is what this site is all about. I'd like to hear about it when you get it up and running. Good Luck bro. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOPMOD 254 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Wouldn't the next size up be 8-32? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dirty 4 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Wouldn't the next size up be 8-32? Would it? Not being a wiseacre, I just don't know........I'm not real smart, but I can pick up heavy stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mittelmorder 1 Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Wouldn't the next size up be 8-32? no idea.. i'm half retarded with that kind of stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOPMOD 254 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) I am holding the 6-32 tap that came with my Dinzag bullet guide and an 8-32 tap and they are close in size with the 8-32 being just big enough.The #29 drill bit is the one that is paired with the 8-32 tap I think. You can find both locally or order them online as a set for $3.50 http://www.tooloutfitters.net/8-32-nc-tap-...-drill-bit.html This time be sure to not wobble that drill or linger in the hole and when it comes time to thread it stop and refer to the instructions and made sure your tap holder is TIGHT and that you use oil and that you clear the threads every 1/2 turn.The threads don't need to go all the way to China just a hair deeper than the length of the screw after you deduct the thickness of the feedramp. You must keep the tap orineted and not take a different line,look at the tap from the front and side and have a vertical visual reference in the background to help you stay "true". This is the appropriate professional solution for your dilemma.If it intimidates you then hire a mechanic or machinist or gunsmith to do it for you Edited April 22, 2009 by SOPMOD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mittelmorder 1 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 I am holding the 6-32 tap that came with my Dinzag bullet guide and an 8-32 tap and they are close in size with the 8-32 being just big enough.The #29 drill bit is the one that is paired with the 8-32 tap I think. You can find both locally or order them online as a set for $3.50 http://www.tooloutfitters.net/8-32-nc-tap-...-drill-bit.html This time be sure to not wobble that drill or linger in the hole and when it comes time to thread it stop and refer to the instructions and made sure your tap holder is TIGHT and that you use oil and that you clear the threads every 1/2 turn.The threads don't need to go all the way to China just a hair deeper than the length of the screw after you deduct the thickness of the feedramp. You must keep the tap orineted and not take a different line,look at the tap from the front and side and have a vertical visual reference in the background to help you stay "true". This is the appropriate professional solution for your dilemma.If it intimidates you then hire a mechanic or machinist or gunsmith to do it for you I'll need a new screw also, right? where can i get the right size? and i'll have a friend of mine do it this time prolly, he's tapped before.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Myetball 1 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I wonder if you could just make a bullet guide out of Mighty Putty!!!! I bet Billy Mays would try it. Seriously though, I've used other epoxy puttys on mechanical applications and the stuff is crazy strong. Can even be drilled and tapped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOPMOD 254 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I am holding the 6-32 tap that came with my Dinzag bullet guide and an 8-32 tap and they are close in size with the 8-32 being just big enough.The #29 drill bit is the one that is paired with the 8-32 tap I think. You can find both locally or order them online as a set for $3.50 http://www.tooloutfitters.net/8-32-nc-tap-...-drill-bit.html This time be sure to not wobble that drill or linger in the hole and when it comes time to thread it stop and refer to the instructions and made sure your tap holder is TIGHT and that you use oil and that you clear the threads every 1/2 turn.The threads don't need to go all the way to China just a hair deeper than the length of the screw after you deduct the thickness of the feedramp. You must keep the tap orineted and not take a different line,look at the tap from the front and side and have a vertical visual reference in the background to help you stay "true". This is the appropriate professional solution for your dilemma.If it intimidates you then hire a mechanic or machinist or gunsmith to do it for you I'll need a new screw also, right? where can i get the right size? and i'll have a friend of mine do it this time prolly, he's tapped before.. The hardware store that has the tap and drill bit will most likely have the correct screw as well.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mittelmorder 1 Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Hey all, heres an update. After letting the JB dry for a few days i went out and shot it, i dumped 10 rounds through it (as i cant shoot here alot, so i do it in short bursts.) and the bulletguide + weld wasnt affected at all... besides, JB weld is used to fill cracks in engines, and with all that heat and shaking on an engine my dad had the JB weld on his stay there for 30+ years... SO in short, i think the jb will work, i'm just gonna go out with 4 full 30 rounders eventually and let her chew it up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cj cake 1 Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 Well, if it gives you problems in the future, you should use a blind rivet. Similar to a pop rivet. CherryMax is the best. I use them for structural repairs in aircraft. If you need some, PM me and I'll send them to you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kim 0 Posted May 6, 2009 Report Share Posted May 6, 2009 I have used screws and what a hassle. Your fine. All you have to do is tack weld it from the bottom and it will not go anywhere. I have one that has about 5-6 hundred rounds through it. If you don't have a welder you probably can rent one or take it to a shop. (some might not touch due to liability but I would think most will lend you a hand for a few bucks.) It takes about 10 seconds once you get the thing plugged in. If you get some spatter you can hit it with a thin round or cone grind dremmel attachment. You weld it where the end of the popsicle stick is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TedG954 0 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Wow! I am very impressed by this thread. You guys have really made an effort to help Mitt with his problem and that is impressive. I feel a lot more comfortable about my conversion in-process knowing there are plenty of people out there to help if I encounter a problem. Good luck Mitt. Please keep us informed. Ted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trgl317 0 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 Any updates? This sounds like what I might do. Just use jb weld and have some spare in buttstock incase it comes off. It couldn't be any worse than screws. I was going to have a gunsmith weld it on since I heard a lot of people screwing up the tap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted June 18, 2009 Report Share Posted June 18, 2009 JB Weld rears it's ugly head again. I hope your life never depends on the function of this weapon. A good chamfer on the hole is a big help getting a tap started. Also lubricate profusely. There's nothing wrong with welding it in, either. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pm-40 0 Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Hey all, heres an update. After letting the JB dry for a few days i went out and shot it, i dumped 10 rounds through it (as i cant shoot here alot, so i do it in short bursts.) and the bulletguide + weld wasnt affected at all... besides, JB weld is used to fill cracks in engines, and with all that heat and shaking on an engine my dad had the JB weld on his stay there for 30+ years... SO in short, i think the jb will work, i'm just gonna go out with 4 full 30 rounders eventually and let her chew it up. Someone on hear was saying that thy had put 1200 rounds with no problems using JB. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elvis christ 451 Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Jeebus, just saw this thread. People, please familiarize yourself with your tools before you start using them. I've never heard of someone using a tap in a drill. Not to say that there isn't an application for such, but I can almost guarantee that the application isn't in gunsmithing, of any level. I'm not trying to rip on the OP in any manner, but this whole thing could have been avoided. I'm glad it worked out. You just gotta be careful and know exactly what you are attempting to do. That's not to say that you shouldn't do something because you've never done it before, but you should definitely familiarize yourself (over and over again) with the process before you begin the procedure. There is so much information all over the place concerning the basics of using basic tools, this sort of thing should be avoided. I know a tap is a very simple tool to use, but the first time I used one (it was on my car, not a gun) I was terrified that I was going to fuck something up. I would run down half a turn, drench it with lube, back it out, drench it with lube, go in a quarter turn, etc. I was terrified I was going to fuck something up. Please be careful using your tools. This is coming from a reckless bastard, so take it how you will. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Jeebus, just saw this thread. People, please familiarize yourself with your tools before you start using them. I've never heard of someone using a tap in a drill. Not to say that there isn't an application for such, but I can almost guarantee that the application isn't in gunsmithing, of any level. I'm not trying to rip on the OP in any manner, but this whole thing could have been avoided. I'm glad it worked out. You just gotta be careful and know exactly what you are attempting to do. That's not to say that you shouldn't do something because you've never done it before, but you should definitely familiarize yourself (over and over again) with the process before you begin the procedure. There is so much information all over the place concerning the basics of using basic tools, this sort of thing should be avoided. I know a tap is a very simple tool to use, but the first time I used one (it was on my car, not a gun) I was terrified that I was going to fuck something up. I would run down half a turn, drench it with lube, back it out, drench it with lube, go in a quarter turn, etc. I was terrified I was going to fuck something up. Please be careful using your tools. This is coming from a reckless bastard, so take it how you will. I've avoided it like the plague, just never had to do it before. Once my second set of parts come in I'm gonna try to tap both guns.... if that doesn't work, what would be the problem with running the whole down through and putting a nut on it? DO NOT tell me the "try again, it's easy.... etc" crap. odds are I'll tap both with no problems as I'm pretty mechanically inclined (sometimes),but no one has answered this question. Don't care for locktite or JBweld for this job, what would be wrong with a stop nut on the bottom of a bolt? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elvis christ 451 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I don't think there would be a problem putting a nut on the bottom of a screw through the feed ramp ( I think this is what you're talking about), assuming you have clearance. But I would definitely recommend loc-tite on the nut. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I don't think there would be a problem putting a nut on the bottom of a screw through the feed ramp ( I think this is what you're talking about), assuming you have clearance. But I would definitely recommend loc-tite on the nut. I thinking if tapping turns into to big of a pain I'd just drill down through and put a stop nut on the bottom (kind that has nylon in it to keep it from loosening. seems like people worried that those using jbweld or locktite will cause it to blow up would appreciate the fact that there is NO way this thing will come apart. just tighten it down and paint it black.... could even glue a nut cap over it so it's more rounded.... just curious to if there was a reason not to consider this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slash-5 0 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Never use a tap with a drill. Do it by hand. This is the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Never use a tap with a drill. Do it by hand. This is the problem. what?? I'm not saying use a drill FOR the tapping, I'm saying if I decide for ANY reason to say to hell with tapping it, I'm thinking to DRILL the hole all the way through and putting in a bolt with a lock nut.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Worked at Boeing for a number of years as a grade IV drill press operator. Drilled and tapped thousands of holes. However, this is a different environment, meaning that most of the drill/tap setups were done on power machines, and yes they drilled and tapped with drill presses, but had certain attachements to them, to allow for reversal. If it's a thread THROUGH a hole, then a regular taper tap will do fine. If it's only going to a certain depth, then you need to use a bottom tap. They are different. However, you can start with the taper and then go to the bottom tap to finish. You can tap all the way with one motion, then blow out the hole with air. Hole should be drilled ACCORDING to the size you have for a tap, there are difference in taps according to the tightness of the threads you want IE they are not all the same. Chamfer the hole before you even start to tap, after you have drilled the hole. Make sure the hole is deep enough, if doing a bottom tap (which is a drilled and tapped hole to a certain depth. Here is your drill and tap chart: DRILL & TAP CHART Print it out and keep it handy, or save to your favorites. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 This is likely going to be an issue for myself in the near future when i put my first bullet guide in. I was thinking just JBweld that sucker myself. but if bob's against it, i may have to re-think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I was thinking just JBweld that sucker myself.... Seriously bro, it's a hunk of glue. That's glued in place. When it comes out, your gun will stop running. If that's not a big deal, then I don't see a problem. ... besides, JB weld is used to fill cracks in engines... Your dad's experience notwithstanding, I wouldn't "fix" a cracked block with the stuff either. It's a band-aid solution to any problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darth AkSarBen 20 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I don't have lubricant so i doused it in Breakfree CLP, and i put the tap into a drill.. the drill with it's speed and pressure seems to be helping, just i wont be able to do it for long cause of the trunnion getting int he way Don't use breakfee, or WD-40, or other 'cleaners'. Just use thread cutting oil. Menards, Lowes, Home Depot, etc should have this stuff. Thread cutting oil is not the same as motor oil either. It is designed to remove heat and suspend chips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phoenix Maximus 1 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 yes, screw gluing it... ANYONE have any pros or cons to drill all the way through and using a nut and bolt instead of the little screw and tap? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I've seen 4 posts in the last 2 months by people breaking the tap and just JB welding it. I have access to a MIG and Stick welder down at my bro-in-laws so if I break mine (my tap) I'm going down 1/2 mile to there and DIY. I took 2 years of metal shop, and 2 years of Autobody, and 3 years of wood shop.. Granted that was 20 years ago but I had the best Mig welds in shop (also number 3 in the county for that year for Autobody) Now.., If I didn't have access though I would JB weld and try it out. BONDO time. haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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