Gunfixr plug super tight...how do I fix it?

[Wakko 10]

My plug is really hard to turn...I have to use a tool to rotate it. How do I clean up the threads on the shotgun? It's not crossthreaded, but the original plug was hard too, so I don't think they were done properly.

[Gunfixr 76]

If it's the threads, and not the head end rubbing on the barrel, you just need to run a tap into the gas block. Be careful to get it straight, fine threads are easy to cross. You don't even need to remove the gas block.

 

M22x1mm.

 

If that doesn't fix it, then something's wrong with the threads on the plug, and it needs to be swapped out. But the original plug giving you problems suggests that it's the gas block.

[Wakko 10]

I think it's the threads, not the plug. Nope, doesn't rub the barrel either. I gotta find a tap of that size! I wonder if Harbor Freight would have that..?

[Gunfixr 76]

I doubt it, that's an extra fine thread. Enco www.useenco.com, or MSC Supply www.mscdirect.com will have it.

 

Travers Tool, maybe.

[Bvamp 604]

Before you go through all of that try this - put a single drop of wd40 or transmission fluid on the plug's threads and see if it threads in any easier. also, obviously, be sure the threads in the gas block are not cross threaded, and are clean.

 

remember, WD is a grease cutter, and should not be used to lube a firearm's moving parts. tranny fluid is also not a proper gun chemical, but I have used both on marine and milspec screw on electrical connectors numerous times for good effect.

 

If that doesnt work, then for surely, its not cut properly.

[SaigaNoobie 66]

make sure the threads are CLEAN too. the stock plug will allow crap into the threads.

[Bounce12 407]

Mine is that way, too, after shooting.

 

The threads get gummed up and you have to clean them out. BVAMP suggested what I do, but it was quite a bit worse than usual after shooting slugs.

 

I got a really small screwdriver (like the kind you use to tighten eye-glasses) and carefully gouged the threads out - being careful not to strip them.

 

Then, I put ATF on the threads of the plug and the receiver. It works very easily when you get it clean.

[Bvamp 604]

one of, but not the only, problem with ATF fluid is it WILL stain gun wood.

 

proper gun chemicals are better, but in a pinch, it works wonders. it will break down other lubes and such, just like WD will, but not all. its a quick fix in some cases, but not permanent. It may tell you whats wrong with whatever gun's action if you have problems with it, such as a new 1911 or other known problem child at birth.

 

Mr Cole, I will note - will NOT use either chemical on ANY gun. Im only using them in rare cases just to get something working right before fixing them problem. He is absolutely correct, in that they are VEHICLE chemicals and not FIREARM chemicals. There is a big difference. Lubing and fixing are two TOTALLY different birds....

 

 

Taking powder solvent on a q-tip to the threads in the gas block and blind plug, then scrubbing out the thread channels with a bronze or brass brush is part of the regular maintenance on my s12 over the years I have had it.

 

 

If you dont already, also remove the front handguard and clean out the blow-by hole in the gas block once in a while. It clears itself, but doesnt CLEAN itself, and can add to fowling in your gas block, when it gets buildup on it, making your plug harder to get back out.

[SCBOWLES 0]

Here is a little trick I learned from a real old fart. Cut some slots in your orginal gas plug with a file. You are basicly using the old plug as a tap. this really does work. I have used it when I could not find a tap or die in an emergency on everything from front caliper backing plates to rear axle pinions

[bulldoguk 0]

I try to keep the ATF away from my guns as much as possible

[Bounce12 407]

Here is a little trick I learned from a real old fart. Cut some slots in your orginal gas plug with a file.

 

 

Would you please explain (in more detail) exactly what you're talking about here?

[dnp 1]

Here is a little trick I learned from a real old fart. Cut some slots in your orginal gas plug with a file.

 

 

Would you please explain (in more detail) exactly what you're talking about here?

 

 

Anything that is a male thread can be used as a makeshift tap to essentially "run-thru" existing threads in the matching female fitting in order to clean or restore the female threads. Just file a notch in the first few threads, and have a matching nut above the notch to clean IT up as you remove that nut you screwed on in the first place to do just that! (Voice of experience here for you Bounce! Lotsa others here too!)

[Bounce12 407]

Here is a little trick I learned from a real old fart. Cut some slots in your orginal gas plug with a file.

 

 

Would you please explain (in more detail) exactly what you're talking about here?

 

 

Anything that is a male thread can be used as a makeshift tap to essentially "run-thru" existing threads in the matching female fitting in order to clean or restore the female threads.

 

I get that part.

 

 

Just file a notch in the first few threads, and have a matching nut above the notch to clean IT up as you remove that nut you screwed on in the first place to do just that! (Voice of experience here for you Bounce! Lotsa others here too!)

 

 

Is this "notch" perpendicular to the threads?

[blurted 0]

I use copper anti-seize on my gas plug. I have had no problems with it getting stuck or being difficult to remove after repeated firing.

[Bounce12 407]

I use copper anti-seize on my gas plug. I have had no problems with it getting stuck or being difficult to remove after repeated firing.

 

 

I've never even heard of that.

 

I'll try it, thanks.

 

Where did you get it?

[Bounce12 407]

Disregard.

 

I see it's an auto parts thing.